Anyone traveling to Zanzibar should proceed with caution. The U.S. government, along with other nations, has warned that violent demonstrations brought on by political tensions and bombings, such as the series of small explosions that occurred throughout the spring of 2004 in and around Stone Town, could recur in the archipelago with little warning.
The danger, although real, adds another layer to the mystique of the place: Once a city-state ruled by sultans, Zanzibar has been as connected to Arabia and other regions along the Indian Ocean as it has to Africa. For centuries, dhows arrived on the trade winds from Persia, India and China to trade for Zanzibar's famous spices. This mix of African and Arabian influences led to the establishment of the Swahili culture and language.
The islands off Tanzania's coast do feel exotic: In Stone Town, on the main island, a labyrinth of narrow streets—mere passageways in some places—winds between aging buildings (a blend of Portuguese, East Indian, Persian and Omani Arab architecture). The open market—where modern goods are mixed in with foodstuffs and more traditional fare—has the feeling of a bazaar. Cars and satellite dishes and mobile phones abound, but the clamor of modern life is halted abruptly by the Muslim call to prayer. The place smells exotic, too: The scent of spices is always in the air—the islands provide most of the world's cloves.
Among the sights in Stone Town are the sultan's palace (notice the huge doors); the old Arab fort, built to defend against the Portuguese around 1700; two cathedrals; and several mosques. When you're strolling about, be sure to watch the Ngalawas outrigger sailboats in the harbor. An excursion can be made to Mangapwani, which was a slave hole—a large underground cave where slaves were kept. (Get a guide to show you where it is, as it is not easy to find.)
The main island has a decent network of roads, but they are not always in great condition. However, it is possible to rent cars or motorbikes to drive around to view the lush scenery—you'll find jackfruit trees with their huge green fruit, palm trees, and spice and coconut plantations. In the middle of the island, the Jozani Forest Reserve is the best place to see Kirk's red colobus, a striking long-fringed monkey species unique to Zanzibar. You can walk through Jozani, which is full of butterflies and birds. On the east coast, you'll often see women tending seaweed farms, which reach out into the sea—the produce is sold to pharmaceutical companies. But mostly you'll see spectacular white-sand beaches. Our favorites are near Matemwe and Nungwi. One that is fairly well-developed for tourism runs for more than 10 mi/20 km from Bweju to Jambiani (the Jambiani end being the most developed). This is where the exotic turns idyllic: In the early morning, when the tide is in and the sun is already hot, it's a good place for a long walk. End your day there by watching the orange moon rise out of the Indian Ocean and turn white.
The second-largest island in the archipelago, Pemba, seems utterly remote—it's about as far away from it all as you can get. There are reefs offshore—good for snorkeling—and a few beaches, but the hilly, verdant island is mostly a place of agriculture: It's dense with plantations growing cloves and other spices. Most of the tourist accommodations are in the towns: Chake Chake (the largest), Mkoani and Wete. Pemba can be reached by air or ferry from Zanzibar.
Just a short ferry ride off Zanzibar's west coast is tiny Chumbe Island, which has been turned into a marine sanctuary. Its reef is one of the most pristine in the world, so snorkelers and divers will see an amazing variety of marine life there. Only 14 guests can stay on the island at one time, so advance reservations are necessary. The facilities have won several awards from ecotourism organizations because of their use of water and disposal of waste (plastic bags and bottles are discouraged, for instance). Other nature programs include the return of a miniature antelope, which had been almost wiped out by hunters, and protection of the endangered coconut crab (the world's largest terrestrial crustacean—some of them weigh 90 lbs/40 kg). For more information, visit http://www.chumbeisland.com.
If you have plenty of money to spend, consider Mnemba, an island that is privately owned. It has only one hotel, which corporate executives and other well-heeled travelers often rent in its entirety. If you want complete solitude, privacy and luxury—while barefoot—this is the place. It is the perfect destination for honeymooners, and couples are treated to candlelit dinners on tables set out to sea or on cushions placed on their verandas. The reef around the island offers a variety of marine life, which can be viewed by snorkelers who are not staying on the island.
Note: When you arrive in Zanzibar, you will need to show a record of yellow-fever vaccination—check with health authorities before you depart. Be sure to take along hard currency (U.S. dollars, British pounds or euros) in small denominations—it is the only currency most hotels in Zanzibar will accept. Power is shut off during occasional rationing periods (these breaks are usually short but unpredictable)—some hotels have lanterns in the hallways to provide a little light. There is also a small port tax to pay if you catch the ferry between Dar es Salaam and Zanzibar. The population of the archipelago is largely Muslim, so women should dress conservatively—skirts should go below the knee and blouses should cover the shoulder and upper arm. Swimwear should be worn only at the beach—and err on the conservative side. Be aware that, during the Islamic holy month of Ramadan, very few places on the island sell food or drink during the day. And don't take photographs of island residents without permission. Zanzibar is 45 mi/70 km north of Dar es Salaam.
