Located off a mile-long dirt drive off Silverbell and Twin Peaks roads, over the hill from the timid Lazy K Bar Ranch, this is the most remote and authentic of the dude ranches here, a century-old, 3,000-acre, family-owned working ranch complete with cookouts, hayrides, nature walks and rodeos.
Although it lacks the resortlike qualities and urbane accommodations of Tanque Verde, this remains one of the better values of its type, with all activities included in the rates except nominal fees for riding instruction.
Guests arrive here like extras on the set of Bonanza, with the Tucson Mountains and towering saguaro cacti providing a dramatic backdrop. The owners are usually nearby, happy to greet guests and get them acquainted with the smartly designed property.
Travelers seeking a castaway hotel can find no better spot in Arizona, but socializing is as much a part of the experience here as exploring the ways of the desert cowboy. Shy guests will shirk at the communal dinner tables and boisterous bar, and the ubiquitous "howdy" blurted out in earnest keeps the mood here fun.
Rustic southwestern flavor peppers the lobby, all of the public areas and even the grounds. The lobby boasts fine views, a fireplace that crackles with wood culled from the property and a baby grand piano that invites sing-a-longs.
The hearty meals are served family-style
to guests only, either at tiled tables indoors or on the breezy brick patio. Themed barbecues rotate weekly, and entire dinners are prepared in an Indian oven each week. Close by are a saloon with an honor bar, a TV room, a library and a billiards room.
The indoor cedar-decked whirlpool proves perfect for soaking saddle-sore limbs. Outside are a heated oval pool under the shade of age-old palms and a too-small arbor, two tennis courts, lawn games, and basketball and volleyball courts. Rates include rides every day but Sunday.
The new health center gathers a newly stocked gym, sauna, whirlpool, changing rooms and a pair of massage rooms. Children have special programs and a modest playground. Each week, a staff-run rodeo takes place. Bighorn sheep, fallow deer, miniature horses and pygmy goats populate the new petting zoo, and exotic and native birds flitter in the aviaries.
Rattlesnake sightings on the trails around the property are frequent, so carry a stick and wear good boots when walking. The hotel has plenty of snakebite kits, so know where they are.
A computer for email retrieval and a laundry room suit most civilized needs, and the meeting room holds 40, but most guests are here to forget business. Those who opt for four or more nights get free airport transfers. Parking is free.
The adequately maintained accommodations are in casitas 
lined up in ranks near the main building. Equipped to modest standards, the older guest rooms are unassuming with knotty-pine paneling seared with branding irons, plank and beam ceilings, Monterey-style furniture, either double or twin beds, and small baths. TVs and phones are lacking.
The best picks feature tiled foyers, Berber rugs and Mexican furniture. Some have king beds, and some have sofa beds. Deluxe rooms are among the furthest from the main lodge, but they come with fireplaces or whirlpool tubs. Serious equestrians might think about booking a room in building 12 or 13, as these abut the corals. Two rooms have showers only in the baths. Attractive patio furniture invites lounging under the willows and cottonwood trees, and fountains promote cool breezes.
Room service is limited. Pets are not allowed.
Friendly managers, an isolated setting and excellent horses and trails are the major lures. Though a better choice than the nearby Lazy K Bar Ranch, this hotel lacks the glossy resort-style amenities of the more expensive Tanque Verde.
As both the Lazy K Bar and Tanque Verde lie within view of the city lights, this ranch also has the better setting. Get detailed directions to find this September-through-May hideout, and note that after years of pleading credit cards are finally accepted here. Welcome to the 21st century.
