Situated at 4,000 ft, off Route 11, 30 mi southwest of Hilo, approximately two hours southeast of Kona, this hotel commands perhaps the state's most dramatic spot. Inside, average maintenance continues to disappoint some arrivals, but this unusual mountain lodge does offer value in this sublime location.
The collection of old photos on the walls and the quirky bar and adjoining terrace overlooking the crater are its most noteworthy features. A sullen lounge with a roaring fireplace harbors a big-screen TV that continuously retells the history of the park from 7 am to late. The overall mood, from the crowded breakfast and luncheon buffets in the gaudy dining room to the bus-filled parking lot, is akin to that in the national park's visitor
center across the street. With its spectacular views and open-door policy, nearly as many people visit this hotel as the visitor center.
Built of rock and redwood, the two-story mountain lodge consists of two wings linked by a glass corridor. A self-service snack bar relieves some of the pressure during the day, and the expensive a la carte dinner scares away transients. Hiking the crater is the only activity here. Parking is free, entrance into the park is $10, and the national park's no-pet policy is carried over here.
Guest rooms, though small, offer escape from the busy public areas. The modest traditional look 
comes as no surprise, with floral carpeting, koa wood furniture, valanced beds with Hawaiian-print comforters and French-shuttered windows. Rocking chairs, heaters, roomy walk-in closets and tubless, marble-floored baths crowd the limited space.
Never out of fashion, the koa wood furniture gets stripped every decade or so and revarnished. The 10 rooms in Ohia Wing are slightly smaller than those in the main building. These units lack crater views and have either two twins or one queen bed, but they are less expensive. Rooms in the main building sport paired double or king-size beds, but only the overpriced Crater View Deluxe rooms afford good volcano views.
For the hardy, the hotel has a group of plywood cabins 3 mi away at Namakani Paio Campground. Each has one double bed and bunk beds, a linen bundle (no blankets) and a single electric light (no outlets).
Limited room service is available, but slow.
For those who cannot muster up the energy to hike the trails and dangerous razor-sharp lava beds in the park, this hotel, despite its long list of shortcomings, is the most memorable choice around.
