Boasting one of the most stunning locations anywhere in Africa, the recently opened Virunga Lodge sprawls across a 2,175-m hilltop overlooking Lakes Burera and Ruhondo to the southeast. Its views stretch northwest to embrace four of the Virunga Volcanoes, whose perfect volcanic domes tower to lofty altitudes of up to 4,500 m. Owned by Volcanoes Safaris, the highly professional Uganda/Rwanda specialist that helped arrange the former U.S. President's recent visit to Rwanda, Virunga Lodge forms the most upmarket base for visits to the legendary mountain gorillas in Volcanoes National Park, about 45 minutes drive to the west. It lies about three hours' drive north of the capital Kigali and 30 minutes from Musanze (formerly Ruhengeri), turning right off the Cyanika Road after 16 km.
For those who prefer organic bush chic to bland transatlantic luxury, this eco-friendly lodge is almost certainly the finest place to stay anywhere in Rwanda, set out spaciously on a hilltop capped by the main reception lounge, bar and
dining area. This consists of a rectangular complex of small buildings with banana thatch roofs, stone walls, wooden furniture and log fires to ward off the surprisingly chilly nights that are often experienced at this altitude. Meals are excellent, drinks are included in the room rate, and the service is both professional and friendly.
The lodge functions mainly as a base for gorilla-tracking in the nearby Volcanoes National Park, which is where Dian Fossey undertook her legendary gorilla research project in the 1970s, and was later used as the set of the film Gorillas in the Mist. In addition to gorilla tracking, other activities in the national park include a visit to Dian Fossey's grave, tracking the rare golden monkey, and ascents of the various volcanoes. Closer to home, the lodge can arrange spectacular evening displays of traditional Intore dancing and cultural visits to villages on Lake Burera.
The accommodations are in spacious stone-and-wood chalets that are spaced widely around the hill to allow for privacy. Every room has two double beds, a writing table and a furnished private veranda with a superb view of the lakes or the volcanoes. A short tunnel leads to the en-suite baths, which have hot showers and toilets designed for biodegradability. The eco-friendly ethos is underscored by the exclusive use of solar power.
This is a top-notch base for gorilla tracking, with plenty of character, great food and service, and a superb location, though the high standards are reflected in prices that will stretch those on a limited budget. One caveat is that the distance from the gorilla tracking base at Kinigi enforces a very early start—but the staff is used to this and organizes early wake-up calls, showers and breakfast as a matter of course.