A two-hour flight from Harare (via Bulawyo) will take you to one of the most stirring sights in Africa: Victoria Falls, known locally by the Kololo people as Mosi-Oa-Tunyaa (Smoke That Thunders), because of the cloud of spray that rises over the falls. The falls are also a World Heritage Site and one of the Seven Wonders of the Natural World. The mile-/kilometer-wide Zambezi River suddenly plunges 30 stories into the Bakota Gorge, at times spilling water at a volume of more than 2 million gallons/7.6 million liters per second. Rainbows, mist and the tremendous roar of the water stir the senses—few other natural wonders match the raw power of Victoria Falls.
First-time visitors to the falls are often surprised to find that it can't all be taken in from one vantage point on land; rather, it's seen from several viewing points along a paved, winding path on the opposite side of a narrow gorge, and there's no sweeping perspective. But seeing it one piece at a time has its own rewards—each viewing point isolates and reveals another aspect of this spectacular place.
Victoria Falls actually consists of several falls separated by islands in the river: The most impressive are Rainbow Falls, Devil's Cataract and Main Falls. The best time to see the falls is during July or August, midway through dry season. The volume of water over the falls is at its peak just after the rains end (March to May), but this is a poor time to go—the force of the falling water at the base sends a mist shooting up to a height of more than 500 ft/150 m, which obscures some views of the falls. Even during the dry season, you can get plenty wet from the mist and you will need a raincoat and a covering to keep your camera and binoculars waterproof. Indeed, it's strong enough to support a lush forest of ebony and mahogany on the opposite side of the gorge, even when the rest of the countryside is parched.) At the apex of the dry season—around the end of October—the water flow at Victoria Falls has diminished considerably, and although it's nice, it's just simply not as impressive as in July or August.
There's another major viewing point from the bridge that connects Zimbabwe to Zambia. It can be crossed on foot or by bicycle, and the border guards will issue you a day pass to access the bridge, which serves as no-man's-land between the two country's borders. We highly recommend this view, as the angle up the gorge of the Zambezi to the center of the falls is spectacular. If you are feeling daredevilish, you can bungee jump—a 360 ft/110 m plunge—off the bridge.
The falls can also be seen from a twin-engine plane that flies for about 15 minutes up and down and over the falls—if you've gone this far, we recommend this flight (it's not a budget breaker, and it's worth every penny). A longer and much more expensive flight also goes over the falls, around the countryside and over more of the river, where you may spot some game. Other aerial views of the falls can be experienced on more-daring flights by helicopter.
Ranging from two to four hours, day and evening sundowner cruises on the Zambezi are also worthwhile—it's possible to spot hippos, monkeys, crocodiles and elephants from the boats (be aware that some of these excursions are essentially booze cruises). During most of the year, you can go white-water rafting on the Zambezi, and most of the rapids are world-class. There are a number of adventure-travel companies in town, and over the years a number of other adventure activities have started up around the falls. These include canoeing and kayaking on the upper Zambezi above the falls, elephant and horseback riding in the surrounding bush, and for the very active, rappeling or gorge-swinging (flying fox and rap jumping) in the Bakota Gorge.
Created especially for visitors, the town of Victoria Falls (called Vic Falls locally) is a pleasant enough place. There are some hiking routes in the area, and bicycles can also be rented. Vic Falls has a number of trinket shops, selling everything from cheap T-shirts to antique African musical instruments. Carvings of wooden masks and animals are a long tradition around the area (as is the intense bargaining required to purchase them for a reasonable price). The Victoria Falls Hotel, a short walk from the falls, still operates in full colonial splendor and should be seen even by those not staying there—they simply don't build them like this anymore. Especially recommended is high tea—a sumptuous spread of dainty sandwiches, cream cakes, tea and coffee that is served on the hotel's terrace every afternoon.
Also in the area is Crocodile Ranch (where you can hold baby crocs) and Craft Village, where there are performances by the local Shangaan or Mkishi people (usually including dinner). Even though it's on the touristy side, it's a good glimpse into Zimbabwean culture. A worthy evening excursion is to the Victoria Falls Safari Lodge, which serves up a traditional African buffet for dinner. A full range of game meat, such as impala or crocodile, is on offer, plus local beer, a spit roast (barbecued meat), and plenty of local salads and vegetables. Entertainment includes traditional dancing and a diviner who throws the bones as a method of telling your fortune.
If you have time, visit Livingstone, just across the border in Zambia—it's more than just a tourist town, and it has a long colonial history and more character than Victoria Falls, with old architecture and interesting museums. Another appealing side trip is to Chobe National Park, in neighboring Botswana. We think Chobe is one of the finest game parks in the world, and it's particularly well-known for its enormous herds of elephant that routinely congregate along the Chobe River. The park is only a 90-minute drive from Victoria Falls (under normal conditions), and most safari companies offer day or overnight excursions there. Victoria Falls is 350 mi/565 km west of Harare.
