Malta's capital city, called the City of the Knights, dates from the 16th century when the Knights of St. John built their headquarters there. Its superb defensive position, built on a peninsula between two excellent natural harbors (Marsamxett Harbour and the Grand Harbour) is readily apparent from the walls of Fort St. Elmo (open weekends only). Be sure to take in the tour and the historical re-enactment if one is scheduled.
Many visitors make a day-trip to Valletta from the resorts, but the capital, with its handsome architecture and multiple attractions, requires a longer stay. For an overview, start by visiting the Upper Barrakka Gardens for a view over the bastions, and follow up with a view from the waterfront on an inexpensive harbor cruise (several times daily from Sliema). Most attractions are located on or near the central main street, Republic Street, which is teeming with shoppers until lunchtime. Do wander around the side streets during the quiet siesta hours in the afternoon, when you can truly appreciate the many fine architectural details on the buildings, and follow the steps leading down to the waterfront for a different perspective.
The Knights of Malta lived in palatial inns, called auberges, according to their various nationalities. A number of their auberges can still be seen. The finest is the Auberge de Castille et Leon, now the office of the prime minister. The Auberge de Provence houses the Museum of Archaeology.
Of Valletta's many museums and attractions, the highlight is St. John's Co-Cathedral, with its lavish baroque decoration. The colorful marble floor is actually the ornate tombstones of the Knights. Visit the Cathedral Museum to see important works by Michelangelo Caravaggio. The state rooms of the Grand Masters Palace are a close second for grand ornamentation, and the Armory gives an impressive look at the islands' martial history. You can also visit the National Museum of Fine Arts, the National War Museum, the Lascaris War Rooms and the Malta Experience—an audiovisual show that gives a good overview of the islands' history and culture. One of our favorite attractions is Casa Rocca Piccola, a 16th-century mansion that is still lived in by descendants of a Knight of St. John. Its rich antiques and artifacts give a fascinating insight into the lifestyle of the Maltese nobility.
Just outside town, near Floriana, is the Argotti Botanic Gardens—a good cacti collection. Across the Grand Harbour is the Cottonera, the generic name for three "suburbs" of Valletta: Vittoriosa/Birgu, Senglea Isle and Cospicua are notable for their medieval homes, churches, palaces and fortifications. If you go there, visit the Church of St. Lawrence, the Maritime Museum, Fort St. Angelo (a key defensive point during the Great Siege of Malta) and the Inquisitor's Palace (to tour its courtrooms and—to see some medieval graffiti—its dungeons).
