Tunisia's capital and largest city doesn't offer the laid-back, beach atmosphere of the coastal resorts, but we think Tunis' cultural assets warrant at least a two-night stay. Avenue Bourguiba has the main monuments in the new part of Tunis (the
ville nouvelle), but the most interesting sights are in the large and labyrinthine medina. We enjoyed strolling the many streets, watching the flow of people and looking at the architecture. If you want to escape the souvenir and perfume shops and see where some local people live, head to the northern edge of the medina, near Place Bab Souika. Walk along the streets, which are lined with stalls selling everything from camel meat and henna to stereos and dried lizards, and then settle into a cafe and enjoy a glass of coffee or tea.
The Zitouna Mosque (also called the Great Mosque) is the city's main congregational mosque. Non-Muslims may enter the courtyard but not the prayer hall. The medina's many other mosques and
medersas (theological schools) serve as local landmarks, and their facades, at the very least, are worth taking note of. The former palaces of Dar Lasram, Dar Ben Abdallah and Dar Othman have been converted into museums or cultural centers—their architectural features are also very interesting. The 15th-century mausoleum complex of Sidi Qasim has also been restored. The former pilgrims' chambers now contain exhibits of ceramics and calligraphy. The country's most renowned museum, the Bardo Museum, has an excellent collection of mosaics and classical sculpture in addition to other Punic and Roman artifacts—it's a must-see.
Several day trips are possible from Tunis. The archaeological zone of Carthage is connected to Tunis by light rail. A bit farther on the same line is Sidi Bou Said, a relaxing seaside town of whitewashed houses with blue doors and climbing bougainvillea. North of Tunis are the remains of the ancient city of Utica, where you can see the ruins of Roman villas and Punic sarcophagi. On display in the museum there are funerary objects and jewels. (We think Carthage is far more interesing than Utica, and it's nearer to Tunis, too.) The ruins of the Roman city of Thuburbo Majus can also be seen on a day trip from Tunis.
