Synonymous with the ends of the earth, Timbuktu gained its reputation as a city of mystery because no European ever saw it and returned to tell the tale until 1828. A former world center of Islamic learning and culture, this small, remote town made famous by Tuareg nomads and the French Foreign Legion lies near the Niger River in north-central Mali. Once an important stop for camel caravans traveling across the Sahara, today's Timbuktu is a charming town, if a bit tumbledown, somewhat lost and forgotten in the middle of a desert.
The most stylish and scenic way to get to Timbuktu is by riverboat from Mopti. It takes about two days, with stops at villages along the way. When you arrive in Timbuktu, hire a guide even if you don't want one—they cost about US$4 a day and, if nothing else, will keep away other pesky would-be guides. Tour the sand-colored adobe-brick buildings, markets and the 14th-century Djingeureber Mosque. The circular terraced gardens, built in craters on the west side of town, are certainly unique and worth a look. Stop by the police station and—for about US$4—you'll get a stamp in your passport that proves you've been to Timbuktu and back.
With luck, you can see salt caravans arriving from the Taoudeni salt mines, more than 400 mi/640 km to the north in the Sahara. We enjoyed the camel rides into the surrounding desert. Shorter rides stop at Tuareg camps for tea; longer trips include dinner, traditional music and a quiet evening ride under the stars. 430 mi/690 km northeast of Bamako.
