This modern industrial city, adjacent to the Tammerkoski Rapids, has been a longtime center for the textile industry. It has massive, redbrick buildings (former factories) on both sides of the river rapids. The old buildings have been converted into restaurants, fitness centers, cinemas, museums and offices. The area is especially popular in summer, when many of the bars and restaurants open their outside terraces. The Plevna area is home to several museums, with frequently changing exhibitions. Tucked away in a courtyard opposite the cinema is Werstas, the Finnish Museum of Social Welfare. The permanent exhibition on the textile industry is particularly good.
There are several impressive structures in the city, including Kaleva Church (designed by Reima Pietila), the Sarkanniemi observation tower, the main library—also a Pietila design, intended to resemble a large game bird called a capercaillie—and the Byzantine-style Eastern Orthodox church. The library also hosts the Moomin (Muumi) museum of original artwork by Tove Jansson. The Sara Hilden Art Museum features international and Finnish artists, and the open-air Pyynikki Theater has performances June-August. Stable Yards, an arts-and-crafts center, has interesting workshops and pleasant cafes. Children will love the Sarkanniemi Theme Park (with a children's zoo, planetarium, aquarium and rides). The city hosts an international short-film festival in March.
Nearby Viikinsaari Island is one of the best places in the country to spend midsummer's eve (juhannus), with dancing, great food and a bonfire (kakko) at the river's edge. Since Tampere is in the western Lake Region, it's an ideal place to board a steamer for cruises of the area (the one from Tampere to Hameenlinna is our favorite). Spend at least two nights in Tampere. 100 mi/160 km north of Helsinki.