Xi'an Hotel Guide: Sheraton Xian Hotel

Eight blocks west of the West Gate of the Old City near the West Second Ring Road, this decent hotel is handicapped by its out-of-the-loop location. Luckily, taxis are cheap and plentiful, but even so, this dreary area of tenements and shops is not what most tourists expect.

The 16-story structure of glass and tile is well-proportioned, with a sparkling chandelier above a lotus-patterned floor, but the lack of any sort of decorating scheme—or rather, any coherent sort of scheme—in the lobby leaves the traveler confused and not knowing where to look.

The second-floor Empress Court serves gourmet Cantonese food, the lobby-level Gate West Restaurant and Bar offers buffets and a la carte fusion cuisine, and a so-called "food street" on the floor below offers cheaper, casual Chinese fare. The Marco Polo lounge on the ground floor is generally empty, save the occasional weary traveler, too spent to venture into Xian's chaos after dark.

The third-floor health club offers passable equipment and a bright indoor pool under a glass atrium, as well as a sauna, steam room, whirlpool and pingpong tables. Men's and women's changing rooms flank an alluring Suzhou-style garden. Shops present their wares attractively.

The 13 meeting rooms available on-site can accommodate up to 1,000 guests, and the latest audiovisual equipment is also available. The business center is open 7 am-10 pm as a rule, and management will open it at other times on request. The hotel offers massage and babysitting services and will help with arranging tours.

The standard guest quarters feature attractive pastel fabrics, springy beds and token Chinese art. Mineral water is complimentary, HBO and CNN blaze on the small TVs set atop the desks, and minibars are stocked with small bottles of liquor. Marble baths provide the usual amenities, thin towels and so-so water pressure. The larger deluxe rooms are better designed and have fewer flaws. Premium rooms on the 12th floor offer better furnishings, such as armoires hiding the TVs, and one floor is smoke-free. Room service runs 24 hours a day.

Staffers' English skills are excellent, and all employees are eager to please. This hotel is, most definitely, the redheaded stepchild of the Sheraton family. Still, it's a relatively clean and safe option, especially for travelers who don't mind staying outside of the city center or who don't plan to spend much time in their room.