Zimbabwe Things to See & Do Guide

Day 1—Arrive Harare.

Day 2—Transfer to Antelope Park near Gweru for a variety of game activities.

Day 3—Morning drive to Great Zimbabwe. Visit the ruins, Lake Mutirikwi Dam and the Bushman rock carving. Overnight Great Zimbabwe.

Day 4—Drive to Bulawayo and visit Matobo National Park, famous for its rhino population.

Day 5—Drive to Hwange National Park.

Day 6—After an early-morning game drive, travel to Victoria Falls.

Day 7—Victoria Falls.

Day 8—Fly directly from Victoria Falls or return to Harare and depart Zimbabwe.

If time permits, spend a couple of days at a Lake Kariba lodge between Masvingo and Victoria Falls and/or two nights at Chobe National Park in Botswana following Victoria Falls. If you want to stay at one of the interior camps at Hwange, you'll need at least another night there. And if even more time is available, adventurous travelers will want to plan two or three days in the Eastern Highlands.

A small and pleasant town on the shore of Lake Kariba, Binga is favored by the locals as a low-key vacation resort. Many go for the excellent fishing in the area. Isolated houseboats decorate the water, and although reasonably developed, the town retains its bush character: A notice in the local police station keeps track of the number of deaths in the area attributed to wild animals. Binga Resort, although very basic, boasts a hot spring, which is a great spot for relaxing at the end of the day. 200 mi/320 km west of Harare.

Set in cattle and mining country, Bulawayo is the second-largest city in Zimbabwe. It is an attractive place with tree-lined streets originally designed by the colonists to be wide enough in which to turn an ox-drawn cart. Although it has more than 600,000 residents, it doesn't feel that large, and it's an ideal stopover on the route between Great Zimbabwe and Hwange or Victoria Falls. In town are a number of museums, including the Railway Museum that exhibits old locomotives and rolling stock. On display is the private carriage of British magnate Cecil John Rhodes, who was best known for his (failed) attempt to build a railway from Cape Town to Cairo. The carriage also carried him after his death in 1912, when his body was transferred from Cape Town to the Matobo Hills outside of Bulawayo, where he was buried. The National Museum exhibits more about Rhodes and other regional history, and the Natural History Museum has displays of everything from Zimbabwe wildlife and plant life to geological and cultural exhibits. Be sure to see the Indaba Tree (at the State House) and the 17th-century Khami Ruins (13 mi/20 km west of the city), built by the Rozwi tribe (allow an hour on the grounds). The Tshabalala Wildlife Reserve (with kudu, wildebeests, zebras, impala and other animals) is only 6 mi/10 km outside of town. If your schedule permits, visit the Chipangali Wildlife Orphanage, where sick, orphaned and wounded animals are cared for-there's even a large enclosure where eagles earn their wings again. Most people visit Bulawayo as part of a trip to Matobo National Park, where there is a healthy population of rhino that can be tracked on foot. On top of a hill with panoramic views lies Rhodes' grave. Matobo means "bald-headed ones" and was named after the balancing granite rocks found throughout the park that reminded the local people of men with balding heads. 230 mi/370 km southwest of Harare.

The main draw of Chinhoyi is just outside the town. Called the Chinhoyi Caves, the attraction was formed aeons ago when an immense sinkhole appeared at the base of the ridge. A sloping cave leads to an underground lake of sparkling blue water, 165 ft/50 m beneath the Earth's surface. When sunlight pours in from a gap in the top, the view is sublime. Qualified divers are permitted to explore underwater. 75 mi/120 km northwest of Harare.

This national park in western Zimbabwe is one of the country's most remote and least developed reserves. The park sits astride the dramatic Zambezi escarpment and is filled with steep cliffs and river gorges. The wildlife, particularly in the Busi Valley, is abundant. There are a few camps in the park, but the Chizarria Wilderness Lodge, just outside the park, is the lodging of choice if you can afford it. Be aware that there are no facilities within the park, so you'll need to take along your own supplies. 348 mi/562 km west of Harare.

Extending more than 200 mi/320 km from north to south along the border with Mozambique, Zimbabwe's eastern region is dominated by a series of dramatic and beautiful mountain ranges. Deep valleys, gorges, granite peaks and tropical forests make this a great area for trout fishing, hiking, cycling, climbing, bird-watching and just relaxing. It is a favorite retreat in the summer for Harare residents, as its cool climate is a welcome change from the heat of the city. The Eastern Highlands incorporates the hills and mountains of Nyanga to the north, Vumba to the east of the town of Mutare and Chimanimani to the south.

Mutare is this beautiful region's major town. It is easily accessed by road and public transport from Harare, though you'll need your own transportation (hire it in Mutare) to drive the scenic roads in the area. Four-wheel-drive vehicles are preferable because the most beautiful views are from dirt roads. Mutare is an ideal base for excursions to Nyanga National Park (British magnate Cecil Rhodes' former estate), 50 mi/80 km north of Mutare, where you'll find some of Zimbabwe's most breathtaking scenery. Mount Nyanga (at 8,500 ft/2,590 m, the nation's highest) is there, as are several waterfalls (Pungwe and Mtarazi are our favorites). Activities include visiting dams and angling for trout. The Rhodes Museum has exhibits on anthropology. Also within a short drive of Mutare are the Vumba Mountains (about 20 mi/32 km south of Mutare), which you can drive through, stopping occasionally at special lookout points. If time permits, have tea and stroll through the beautifully landscaped Vumba Botanical Gardens, home to orchids and other native plants in an English-garden setting. Close to the gardens is the excellent Leopard Rock Hotel, easily the best accommodation in the region and boasting a world-class golf course. Hikers and climbers, in particular, are drawn to the Chimanimani Mountains, about 90 mi/145 km south of Mutare. Near the town of Chimanimani is an ancient trail that leads into the mountains (the hut at the top is open to climbers). Beautiful valleys, pools, waterfalls, an eland sanctuary and hot springs are a few of the pleasures of the Chimanimani area.

Gonarezhou is a remote national park infrequently visited by international tourists. Zimbabwe's second-largest river, the Save, flows through it, and where it joins the Rundu River within the park's boundaries is Zimbabwe's lowest elevation point. Facilities are very basic (mostly camping), the roads are in a poor state, and four-wheel-drive vehicles are a necessity. However, the park will appeal to those who like isolation-it's really off the beaten path. Be cautious when visiting Gonarezhou: The elephants, rhinos and buffalo in the park are more likely to charge humans than in other parks because these species have been heavily hunted and poached in the area. Understandably, they appear to hold something of a grudge against humans. The park was slated to join the Kruger National Park in neighboring South Africa and Mozambique's Banhine National Park to form Africa's newest and biggest peace park or transfrontier national park-joining game areas across country borders would allow greater freedom of movement for animals. However, because of the current instability over land in Zimbabwe, the inclusion of Gonarezhou in this project has been put on hold. 265 mi/430 km south of Harare.

Great Zimbabwe is, quite simply, the most extensive and best-preserved ruins anywhere in Africa south of the Sahara Desert. The ancient African kingdom of Munhumatapa built the series of stone complexes. The 10,000 people who prospered there in the 13th-15th centuries had impressive skills: They built three distinct complexes, using very basic tools and no mortar. Great Zimbabwe is all curved stone walls, huge enclosures and cylindrical structures. The ruins were once inhabited by ancestors of the Karanga subgroup of the Shona people, and what remains was once part of a fortified capital. Walls as thick as 18 ft/6 m at the base and as high as 24 ft/8 m are in almost perfect condition. We strongly recommend hiring a local guide, which can be done at the on-site office, (or at the very least, get a good guidebook) to put it all into proper perspective. Without knowing about the civilization and the purposes of the various areas, it's easy to overlook important details of the construction-there's little left in the way of ornamentation.

We suggest that you start your tour with the Hill Complex while you still have the enthusiasm and vigor for the climb-begin before the day gets too hot. End with the most impressive area, the Great Enclosure (be sure to walk behind it to see the design along the top of the outside wall). Don't forget to visit the on-site museum-it helps put everything together. Highlights of the museum include pottery from China and India (suggesting trade with coastal Arabs and Portuguese) and marvelous green soapstone carvings of birds, which have become the symbol of Zimbabwe (the images are on everything from the flag to the currency). If time permits, visit the adjacent Karanga Village exhibit, which features a full-scale replica of a 19th-century tribal settlement. Some local craftspeople work there and sell their wares. The closest town is Masvingo, about 18 mi/30 km away. 180 mi/290 km south of Harare.

Located in the middle of the country, the town of Gweru is mostly used as a base for visiting nearby national parks and ruins. Although Great Zimbabwe has the most extensive ruins in the country, it is not the only place with ruins: There are more than 200 such sites, and a few are near Gweru. The Dhlo ruins (small ruins with chevron and herringbone designs) are 45 mi/70 km away, and the Nalatale stone ruins, another small but interesting site, are 40 mi/65 km away. Sebakwe National Park (noted for fishing, birding and beautiful cliff scenery) and Ngezi National Park (a lake at the foot of the Mashaba Hills) are in the region. If you're visiting them, you might want to stay in the nearby town of Kwe Kwe (Que Que). Both parks include man-made lakes (bilharzia-parasitic worms that can cause fatal liver damage-make the water unsafe for swimming). The Antelope Park, west of Gweru, is a favorite destination for both Zimbabweans and international visitors. The scenery at the private game farm consists of rolling paddocks, small rivers and dams, and there is the opportunity to walk with lion cubs, swim with elephants and go game viewing on horseback. The owners of the farm have put a great deal of effort into the conservation of game in the area and provide fun ways of interacting with the animals at very close quarters. Accommodations are in permanent tents at an attractive campsite next to a small dam. 140 mi/225 km southwest of Harare.

Zimbabwe's capital city, Harare is modern and pleasant. The city is not as bustling and hurried as Nairobi, Kenya, and we are thankful for that. Harare has a laid-back charm-although you can see the highlights in one very full day, add another if you want to slow the pace and do some shopping. Begin bright and early at the Mbare Musika market, next to the main bus station. The market has sections offering produce, clothing (some handmade), herbs, traditional medicines and crafts (the crafts are sold at bargain prices, compared with prices in hotel and downtown tourist shops). Be sure to ask the vendors to describe what they're selling if it isn't obvious-we were told that one gelatinous substance was to be burned at night to ward off bad dreams. Smaller markets selling leather and other specialized products are nearby. Like you should in many busy downtown markets in Africa's big cities, beware of pickpocketing and petty theft; do not take anything valuable with you, and ask your taxi driver to wait while you peruse. If you're visiting Harare between the end of April and the end of September, try to see one of the daily tobacco auctions: Zimbabwe used to produce a lot of tobacco when the economy was stronger, and the auctions are still rather lively (though nothing like when the auction floors used to be the biggest in the world).

The Queen Victoria Museum (near the Sheraton Hotel) requires an hour to see its natural-history displays, and another hour could be spent at the National Art Gallery (many original items by Zimbabwean artists are for sale there). After you walk around the downtown area, stroll through the Harare Gardens. In African Unity Park, flower vendors sell a fantastic array of tropical blooms for very reasonable prices. The city has excellent golf courses and active nightlife (the name Harare means "the one who does not sleep"). We especially enjoyed the distinctive local music.

Several short excursions can be made from the capital. Bird-watchers may want to visit the Kuimba Shira Bird Gardens, 20 mi/32 km outside of Harare on the shores of Lake Chivero. More than 400 species are found there around the natural lake, which itself is the main supplier of fresh water to Harare. The lake is a popular weekend spot for city dwellers and offers excellent fishing, picnic sites on the lake shore, a tea garden and shop. It is also possible to see giraffes, rhinos and other animals in the area around the lake. The Kopje, site of the Eternal Flame of Independence, is on a hill outside of town and offers great vistas.

Ewanrigg National Park, about a 30-minute drive outside of town, has impressive gardens filled with aloes and cycads-things are really blooming in July and August. In the suburbs is Chapungu Kraal, a reproduction of a 19th-century Shona village-complete with a traditional healer and soothsayer and performances by traditional dance troupes on weekends. Chapungu Kraal also has an art gallery and sculpture gardens. If time permits, spend a day at the Lion and Cheetah Park to see lions, giraffes, rhinos and other animals (there's a snake farm there, too). It's really more like driving through a zoo than visiting a real reserve, and it will really only appeal to people who aren't planning on going to larger game parks.

Pronounced h'WAIN-gay, this huge game park is the largest in Zimbabwe-8,760 sq mi/22,690 sq km. The abundance of game guarantees sightings, so you'll see more than enough to be satisfied. The Hwange Safari Lodge, the most popular property in the park, has its own flood-lit water hole where guests can watch animals all night. The majority of tourists can be found in the most accessible areas-especially near the main camp entrance and the Nyamandhlovu Pan, but these days the number of visitors is relatively low and the animals live in relative peace throughout much of the rest of the park. To experience the wilderness at its best, it is possible to visit one of the more remote camps, which generally have only a tap, toilet and sleeping rondaval (thatched hut).

Anywhere in the park, visitors are likely to encounter huge herds of elephants-27,000 live there, and it's one of the few parks on the continent where they sometimes have to be culled to prevent overpopulation and excessive damage to the environment. Other resident animals include white rhinos, lions (more likely seen in the mountainous, western areas), great kudu (a kind of antelope), giraffes, wildebeests, zebras, impala, baboons, sable (another gorgeous antelope), warthogs, more than 400 species of birds and more than 1,000 species of trees and scrubs. The animals tend to congregate around man-made borehole wells, particularly in the dry season (August-October), and game-viewing platforms have been constructed at many of these water holes. The main activity in the park is a safari, on foot and by vehicle, and weeks could be spent exploring the backcountry. However, most visitors will be happy with two nights, if they're staying near the perimeter, or three or four nights, if they're going into an interior camp. Unfortunately, there are no longer any commercial flights to Hwange, so it is necessary to visit by road from Victoria Falls or Bulawayo. 310 mi/500 km west of Harare.

Lake Kariba, created when a hydroelectric dam was built on the Zambezi River, offers a wide variety of islands, excellent wildlife viewing and big-game fishing. However, crocodiles, hippos and the parasite bilharzia make it a less-than-ideal venue for watersports. The Bumi Hills Safari Lodge is the lakeside property-it's small (only 34 rooms) and has a great location overlooking the water. Much of the lakeshore on the eastern side lies within the boundaries of the Matusadona National Park, which is one of the wildest areas of Zimbabwe. It is a mountainous, rugged destination that is difficult to access and offers only simple accommodations for self-sufficient campers. However, the best way to see the park and enjoy the lake is by houseboat. You sleep on board, either in cabins or under mosquito nets on deck, and a resident cook prepares meals in the galley. The boats provide a great opportunity for bird- and animal-watching and viewing the shoreline mottled with hundreds of hippos wallowing in the shallows.

Fothergill Island and Spurwing Island also have upmarket lodges with good facilities. There are spots (called hides) from which you can observe the animals at close quarters (elephants, rhinos and others). Nearby is Starvation Island where thousands of animals were marooned in 1958 when the Zambezi was dammed, inundating 2,000 sq mi/5,180 sq km of bush and creating Lake Kariba. Many of the animals perished, but thousands were saved by the conservationist Rupert Fothergill who dropped food on Starvation Island. His team also tracked, captured and relocated around 5,000 animals, including lions and rhinos, to save them from the rising waters. The ghostly trunks of drowned trees still rise from the shallows of Lake Kariba. They make excellent perches for fish eagles, cormorants and other water birds.

The World Heritage Site of Mana Pools National Park (about 60 mi/100 km northeast of Lake Kariba) is probably Zimbabwe's most beautiful wilderness retreat. It has an excellent and tranquil river frontage of the Zambezi below the Kariba Dam wall and a wide assortment of game. It is one of the few parks in Africa where you are permitted to walk unaccompanied. A good safari there will include Land Rover drivers, canoeing and hiking. Hippo-watching is particularly good at Mana Pools, and you might see the endangered black rhinoceros there, too. The Zimbabwe National Parks organization operates Nyamepi, or main camp, which has basic facilities for campers. For the adventurous, multiday canoe safaris run from beneath the Kariba Dam Wall to Kinyembe, near the Mozambique border. A canoe provides a gentle way of exploring the riverbanks, and nothing beats watching a crocodile slipping silently into the water seeing or a baby elephant at bath time. Accommodations include camping on one of the river's sandbanks or staying in the more upmarket river lodges.

This park on the northern shore of Lake Mutirikwi, a man-made lake and Zimbabwe's third-largest, is home to giraffes, impalas, warthogs, kudu and white rhinos, among other game (look for some of the world's largest lizards-up to 8 ft/3 m in length). The lake's dam, on the southern shore, is impressive, and not far from it is an interesting Bushman rock painting of a hunting scene (you'll need the help of a local guide to find it). The dam and the rock painting can be seen on the same day as a visit to nearby Great Zimbabwe National Monument. 150 mi/250 km south of Harare.

This park is split into a game reserve famous for its healthy rhino population and a recreational area that encompass windswept granite hills, caves with rock paintings and the home and grave of Cecil Rhodes. Rhodes was a British businessman/explorer/robber baron who, in the late 19th century, came awfully close to making Zimbabwe his private domain (the preindependence name of the country was Rhodesia). He chose Malindidzimu (which means "view of the world"), sited atop a granite peak, as his burial place because he considered it the best vista in Africa. Rhodes may have been wrong about many things in his life, but not this-the view is definitely worth the hike to the top.

The surrounding park is noted for its outcrop of bare granite masses millions of years old-including the "balancing rocks." The game reserve has both black and white rhinos, baboons, vervet monkeys, impala, kudu, duiker, genet, civet cats and rock rabbits. It also is home to the highest concentration of leopards and bald eagles in Zimbawe. Also in the park are a number of prehistoric cave paintings. A few of the more accessible ones have been defaced, but several stunning and untouched paintings remain. Allow an hour or two to see Rhodes' grave and a full day if you want to see the grave, rocking paintings and go on safari in the game reserve. There it is also possible to alight from your safari vehicle and walk tantalizingly close to the rhino with a ranger. 20 mi/32 km south of Bulawayo.

These spectacular falls lie across the border with Zimbabwe/Zambia and are very near Botswana's northeast corner and the Chobe National Park. The falls are one of Africa's foremost attractions and well worth the extra day required to see their magnificent cascades. 455 mi/730 km north of Gaborone.

A two-hour flight from Harare (via Bulawyo) will take you to one of the most stirring sights in Africa: Victoria Falls, known locally by the Kololo people as Mosi-Oa-Tunyaa (Smoke That Thunders), because of the cloud of spray that rises over the falls. The falls are also a World Heritage Site and one of the Seven Wonders of the Natural World. The mile-/kilometer-wide Zambezi River suddenly plunges 30 stories into the Bakota Gorge, at times spilling water at a volume of more than 2 million gallons/7.6 million liters per second. Rainbows, mist and the tremendous roar of the water stir the senses-few other natural wonders match the raw power of Victoria Falls.

First-time visitors to the falls are often surprised to find that it can't all be taken in from one vantage point on land; rather, it's seen from several viewing points along a paved, winding path on the opposite side of a narrow gorge, and there's no sweeping perspective. But seeing it one piece at a time has its own rewards-each viewing point isolates and reveals another aspect of this spectacular place.

Victoria Falls actually consists of several falls separated by islands in the river: The most impressive are Rainbow Falls, Devil's Cataract and Main Falls. The best time to see the falls is during July or August, midway through dry season. The volume of water over the falls is at its peak just after the rains end (March to May), but this is a poor time to go-the force of the falling water at the base sends a mist shooting up to a height of more than 500 ft/150 m, which obscures some views of the falls. Even during the dry season, you can get plenty wet from the mist and you will need a raincoat and a covering to keep your camera and binoculars waterproof. Indeed, it's strong enough to support a lush forest of ebony and mahogany on the opposite side of the gorge, even when the rest of the countryside is parched.) At the apex of the dry season-around the end of October-the water flow at Victoria Falls has diminished considerably, and although it's nice, it's just simply not as impressive as in July or August.

There's another major viewing point from the bridge that connects Zimbabwe to Zambia. It can be crossed on foot or by bicycle, and the border guards will issue you a day pass to access the bridge, which serves as no-man's-land between the two country's borders. We highly recommend this view, as the angle up the gorge of the Zambezi to the center of the falls is spectacular. If you are feeling daredevilish, you can bungee jump-a 360 ft/110 m plunge-off the bridge.

The falls can also be seen from a twin-engine plane that flies for about 15 minutes up and down and over the falls-if you've gone this far, we recommend this flight (it's not a budget breaker, and it's worth every penny). A longer and much more expensive flight also goes over the falls, around the countryside and over more of the river, where you may spot some game. Other aerial views of the falls can be experienced on more-daring flights by helicopter.

Ranging from two to four hours, day and evening sundowner cruises on the Zambezi are also worthwhile-it's possible to spot hippos, monkeys, crocodiles and elephants from the boats (be aware that some of these excursions are essentially booze cruises). During most of the year, you can go white-water rafting on the Zambezi, and most of the rapids are world-class. There are a number of adventure-travel companies in town, and over the years a number of other adventure activities have started up around the falls. These include canoeing and kayaking on the upper Zambezi above the falls, elephant and horseback riding in the surrounding bush, and for the very active, rappeling or gorge-swinging (flying fox and rap jumping) in the Bakota Gorge.

Created especially for visitors, the town of Victoria Falls (called Vic Falls locally) is a pleasant enough place. There are some hiking routes in the area, and bicycles can also be rented. Vic Falls has a number of trinket shops, selling everything from cheap T-shirts to antique African musical instruments. Carvings of wooden masks and animals are a long tradition around the area (as is the intense bargaining required to purchase them for a reasonable price). The Victoria Falls Hotel, a short walk from the falls, still operates in full colonial splendor and should be seen even by those not staying there-they simply don't build them like this anymore. Especially recommended is high tea-a sumptuous spread of dainty sandwiches, cream cakes, tea and coffee that is served on the hotel's terrace every afternoon.

Also in the area is Crocodile Ranch (where you can hold baby crocs) and Craft Village, where there are performances by the local Shangaan or Mkishi people (usually including dinner). Even though it's on the touristy side, it's a good glimpse into Zimbabwean culture. A worthy evening excursion is to the Victoria Falls Safari Lodge, which serves up a traditional African buffet for dinner. A full range of game meat, such as impala or crocodile, is on offer, plus local beer, a spit roast (barbecued meat), and plenty of local salads and vegetables. Entertainment includes traditional dancing and a diviner who throws the bones as a method of telling your fortune.

If you have time, visit Livingstone, just across the border in Zambia-it's more than just a tourist town, and it has a long colonial history and more character than Victoria Falls, with old architecture and interesting museums. Another appealing side trip is to Chobe National Park, in neighboring Botswana. We think Chobe is one of the finest game parks in the world, and it's particularly well-known for its enormous herds of elephant that routinely congregate along the Chobe River. The park is only a 90-minute drive from Victoria Falls (under normal conditions), and most safari companies offer day or overnight excursions there. Victoria Falls is 350 mi/565 km west of Harare.