Swazi handicrafts are of high quality, and generally less expensive than in neighboring South Africa. Shop for beadwork, wooden and soapstone carvings, calabashes, battle axes, drums, walking sticks, clothing, artificial flowers made from natural materials, batiks, mats, local gemstones, caftans, pottery, and patterned Swazi baskets.
Monday-Friday 8 am-1 pm and 2-5 pm, Saturday 9 am-1 pm. Some supermarkets are also open on Sunday mornings.
Swazi Trails (http://www.swazitrails.co.sz. Phone 416-2180) can help you arrange tours of the country, plus biking, rafting and other excursions. There are tourist-information offices near Mantenga Lodge in the Ezulwini Valley and at Swazi Plaza in Mbabane.
The whole country can be seen in two days (it's about 80 mi/130 km wide and 125 mi/200 km long), but stay longer—there's a lot of beauty packed into that area. Below is our minimum itinerary for the country:
Day 1—Arrive Mbabane.
Day 2—Explore Lobamba and the Ezulwini Valley; overnight in Ezulwini Valley.
Days 3 & 4—Visit some wildlife parks: Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary, Mkhaya Game Reserve and Hlane Royal National Park are all good choices.
Day 5 & 6—Head northwest to Malolotja Nature Reserve for some hiking.
Day 7—Depart Swaziland.
Ezulwini ValleyEzulwini, dubbed the Place of Heaven, is a showcase of Swaziland's astonishing natural beauty, and it's the country's entertainment center. In addition to the Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary, this lush valley is home to hot mineral springs and the Mantenga Falls. Modern comforts include golfing, tennis, nightlife, gambling and horseback riding at the valley's resorts. 5 mi/8 km southeast of Mbabane.
Game ReservesIn spite of the small size of Swaziland, its wildlife reserves offer a range of terrains and climates, and are home to an impressive variety of animals. At least two nights could be spent at any of the following reserves:
Hlane Royal National Park-Although not as scenic as other parks, Hlane has some of the best game viewing in Swaziland. This is especially true during the May-August dry season, when you'll have good chances of seeing elephants, giraffes, zebras, white rhinos and (thanks to a special conservation effort during the early 1990s) lions. This park also has very nice accommodations. 45 mi/70 km east of Mbabane.
Malolotja Nature Reserve-Encompassing 70 sq mi/180 sq km of mountainous terrain, Malototja is Swaziland's largest reserve, and it's not known for its wildlife-watching but for its hiking. Breathtaking mountain peaks and lush valleys are laced with 125 mi/200 km of trails, and there are rustic log cabins for sleeping, and an assortment of blesbok, blue wildebeest, zebra and red hartebeest. Also worth seeing is Malolotja Falls, with a drop of 300 ft/90 m. One of the world's oldest mines is also in this park: You can visit it by arranging a tour with a ranger one day in advance. 15 mi/25 km northwest of Mbabane.
Mkhaya Nature Reserve-Swaziland's most exclusive reserve is small, but its open savannah provides an excellent chance to see a wide variety of wildlife, particularly the elusive black rhino. Other draws include white rhino, nyala, buffalo and roan antelope. Overnight travelers spend the night in luxury camps. The reserve can be visited by advance booking only. 40 mi/65 km southeast of Mbabane.
Mlawula Nature Reserve-In this hilly park at the base of the Lebombo Mountains, zebra, wildebeest, impala and kudu are the main features. Other animals, including giraffes, ostriches and white rhinos have been introduced to the mix. There's a campsite, plus a permanent camp. 50 mi/80 km east of Mbabane.
Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary-In the Ezulwini Valley, Mlilwane can be toured by horseback, on foot or by car to see white rhinos, giraffes, crocodiles, hippos, impala, wildebeest, nyala, warthogs and zebras. Accommodations include campsites, deluxe cottages and traditional beehive huts. At the Hippo Haunt restaurant at Mlilwane camp, you can enjoy your meal and look across at a pool containing crocodiles, hippos and plenty of birds. The daily feeding is at 3 pm. 5 mi/8 km south of Mbabane.
LobambaPlan about an hour in this legislative capital to visit the House of Parliament and the National Museum (with a focus on Swazi traditions and culture). The royal residence, site of the umhlanga ceremony (also known as the reed dance) in late August or early September, as well as the Ncwala (also known as the First Fruits ceremony) in December, is on Lozitha Road. 10 mi/15 km southeast of Mbabane.
Manzini And MatsaphaWe suggest moving through Manzini and Matsapha as fast as the speed limit will allow. These two sprawling industrial centers have the distinction of being the least appealing parts of the country (Matsapha is where Swaziland's airport is located). If you must stop, do so on a Thursday or Friday morning, when the Manzini market is held. 20 mi/30 km southeast of Mbabane.
MbabaneSwaziland's capital city (pop. 73,000) is a pleasant place to spend time preparing to tour the rest of the country. Mbabane (pronounced em-BAH-bahn) is not known for its nightlife, but it does have good shopping and a laid-back atmosphere. The Swazi Plaza and the Swazi Mall (across OK Road from Swazi Plaza) are filled with small shops and eateries. Sibebe Mountain is a huge granite outcrop that provides a scenic spot for a picnic and offers a good two-hour hike to the top. Mbabane can be easily seen in a day, but it's also a convenient base for excursions (most of the country's deluxe hotels are located in the nearby Ezulwini Valley). 20 mi/30 km northwest of Manzini.
