Shop for ebony carvings, drums, gold and silver jewelry, camel seats, copperware, leather goods, caftans and decorated daggers and swords. Remember that ivory (widely available in Sudan) and other products from endangered species will be confiscated by customs officials upon your return home.
In the south, blacksmiths melt the brass from used and discarded bullet casings to make stunning but simple bracelets and adornments for wooden pipes and canes. Some of these items can be obtained by bartering such items as clothes and soap, because currency is not very useful in the south. It is more difficult to obtain canes, as they are often reserved for older and respected members of the community.
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Saturday-Thursday 8:00 am-1:30 pm and 5:30-8:00 pm.
Travel to Sudan is not recommended at this time. If the political situation changes, however, there are several fascinating routes that can be driven in a hired four-wheel-drive car (with driver/guide). The following itinerary can be driven in a week to 10 days. Be aware, however, that it can stretch to two weeks and beyond if car problems, road conditions, etc., slow you down (it's best to travel in a convoy of at least two vehicles). Before going on the following route, make sure the areas crossed are safe (check with your embassy).
Start out by driving north through Atbara (on the east side of the Nile) to Wadi Halfa (near the Egyptian border), then back along the Nile through the Nile's Third Cataract, Kerma and Kurti. When returning, take the road just south of Atbara along the west side of the Nile. This trip goes through the most arid parts of the desert.
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AtbaraThe main draw of Atbara is that it's near the Nile's Fifth Cataract. Plan only a few hours there—enough time to see the cataract and the old steam locomotives that died and are rusting in rail yards. 170 mi/275 km northeast of Khartoum.
Dinder National ParkThis medium-sized reserve (16,000 acres/6,475 hectares) is in eastern Sudan, on the border with Ethiopia. Lions, monkeys, giraffes, leopards, bushbucks, kudu, antelope and many kinds of birds can be seen there, but you'll need your own vehicle. The park's main season is January-April. 250 mi/400 km southeast of Khartoum.
DongolaOn the Nile in northern Sudan, this town lies in a noted date-growing area. Across the river are the ruins of the Temple of Kawa. Dongola is served by bus and steamer (during winter months only). 285 mi/460 km northeast of Khartoum.
El ObeidThe self-proclaimed "gum arabic capital of the world," El Obeid is a fairly large desert city (pop. 423,000). It has a small history museum, two markets and, interestingly enough, one of the largest cathedrals in Africa (attend a Sunday service, even if you're not particularly religious). Plan one night. 230 mi/365 km southwest of Khartoum.
ErkowitLocated in the beautiful Red Sea Hills, Erkowit was once a cool retreat for the British. There are, however, few original buildings left; it's just a place to go to get out of the heat for a while. The area is reached by private vehicle. 60 mi/100 km south of Port Sudan.
Immatong MountainsThis area on the border with Uganda offers a cool climate for those seeking a respite from the heat, as did the British who built a hill station there during colonial times. Home to the Aoholi and Pari tribes, the area also is controlled by rebel forces and considered unsafe. 80 mi/130 km southeast of Juba.
Jebel MarraThis splendid region of small mountains in Southern Darfur Province (western Sudan) is popular with trekkers. In the center of Jebel Marra is an extinct volcanic crater with a lake called the "Eye of Jebel Marra." Most visitors pay for a truck ride to the area from Nyala, 60 mi/100 km to the southeast. At the end of the western railway from Khartoum, Nyala is the nearest railway station to Jebel Marra, and pack animals for trekking can be purchased there. 570 mi/915 km southwest of Khartoum.
JubaCapital of Equatoria Province and terminus for Nile steamers, Juba (pop. 167,000) is one of the few true cities in southern Sudan and has its own university. Although the government has control of the city, this area has been the scene of heavy fighting in the past. Flying into Juba is not advised. 745 mi/1,200 km south of Khartoum.
KarimaThis small market town on the Nile north of Khartoum is near the ruins (small pyramids and a temple) of Jebel Bakal. Farther south in Kurru are other interesting antiquities (underground tombs with paintings). And just across the Nile by ferry are the ruins of Merowe (not to be confused with Meroe), the site of the ancient capital of Napata. Karima can be reached by railway, but not by road. 210 mi/340 km northeast of Khartoum.
KassalaSurrounded by strange jebels (rounded hills), Kassala (pop. 430,000) has an active souk (market) selling locally made handicrafts (jewelry, knives, swords). Women of the Rashida tribe (descendants of 19th-century immigrants from Saudi Arabia) make the silver jewelry. Kassala can be reached by bus from Khartoum or Port Sudan. 250 mi/400 km east of Khartoum.
KhartoumThe arid capital city (pop. 4,495,000) of Sudan, at the junction of the White Nile and the Blue Nile, merits a stay of at least two nights. It's an interesting place to walk around, snoop in shops and people-watch. Also take a ride on the Nile (in Khartoum or in nearby Omdurman), and then visit the National Museum (antiquities from around the country), ethnological museum (tribal artifacts) and natural-history museum (local bird and wild-game displays).
The most fascinating sight is the juncture of the White and Blue Nile Rivers. Al Mogran Family Park, an amusement park, is located at the point where the rivers flow together. After spending time at the confluence, take a ferry to Tuti Island for a look at a typical rural village. Consider excursions to Jebel Aulia Dam (great spot for bird-watching, fishing, picnics and people-watching) and the Sabaloka Gorge (the Nile's Sixth Cataract—it's a three- or four-hour drive each way). Other trips—by four-wheel-drive vehicles or local buses—can be made to the ruins at Meroe and Shendi; they can be seen on a day trip, but we really recommend taking them in during a three-day trip.
Note: A permit is required for all travel outside Khartoum. These can be obtained from the Passport and Immigration Office, Ministry of Interior in Khartoum.
KostiSouth of Khartoum, Kosti sits in an area that's usually considered safe. Visit the Kenana Sugar Project, as well as the Mahdi's Mosque on nearby Gezira Aba Island. Try the local fish from the Nile at one of the restaurants. The Nile steamer that used to travel from Kosti to Juba is not currently in service. 193 mi/310 km by road south of Khartoum.
MeroeOn the east bank of the Nile northeast of Shendi, these ruins of pyramids, temples and palaces are remnants of the Meroitic era (350 BC to AD 350). The kingdom was influenced by Egyptian art and religion, but it became isolated, developing its own script and art. After weathering attacks by several tribes, the city was destroyed by the Christian kingdom of Axum (Ethiopia). Between the railway and the Nile, you'll see ruins of the Amon Temple, and 1 mi/2 km east of Meroe is the Temple of the Sun. The pyramids lie 3 mi/5 km from town. The nearest train station is in Kabushiya. 44 mi/70 km north of Shendi.
Nuba MountainsTravel to this region southwest of Khartoum is very dangerous. Relief agencies have been barred from working there, and conflict in the area has been the focus of human-rights reports, which have alleged the presence of kidnapping and slave trading. The situation is extremely unfortunate because the Nuba tribe has worked to maintain many of its ancestral ways, including traditional dances, which are a fascinating attraction. Towns of interest in the region include Rashad, Heiban, Kadugli and El Odaiya. 75 mi/120 km southeast of El Obeid.
OmdurmanThe holiest site in Sudan is located across the Nile from Khartoum. Omdurman makes a nice day trip to see the site of the Mahdi's Tomb (nonbelievers aren't permitted to enter); Khalifa's House (relics of the Mahdi and British Sudan); and a huge, fascinating market (excellent silver jewelry). Don't miss the Hamed al Niel Mosque (Sufi "whirling" dervishes dance there an hour before sunset on Friday, except during Ramadan). Omdurman presents quite a contrast to modern Khartoum. At the base of the Nile bridge, boat builders can be seen plying their trade. We consider Omdurman a must-see. 6 mi/10 km northwest of Khartoum.
Port SudanThe nation's principal port (pop. 499,000) on the Red Sea, Port Sudan doesn't have many attractions, though there are some good beaches. The ancient port of Suakin lies 35 mi/58 km south, and the nearby resort of Arusa is a good place to snorkel. 410 mi/660 km northeast of Khartoum.
ShendiOn the Nile northeast of Khartoum, Shendi was a large 18th-century market town. Now it's mainly visited on the way to the Meroitic ruins of the Naqa and Musawwarat temples. Frequent bus service departs Khartoum. 110 mi/175 km northeast of Khartoum.
ShowakThe United Nations High Commission for Refugees maintains an office in this town in eastern Sudan (there is also an office in Khartoum). Many refugee settlements may be found in this area. 85 mi/135 km southwest of Kassala.
SuakinThis ancient Red Sea port is now inhabited mostly by cats. The town, best visited as a trip from Port Sudan, is on an island connected to the mainland by a causeway. Of interest are the ruined buildings, made of coral. 40 mi/65 km south of Port Sudan.
Wadi HalfaThe transit point of Wadi Halfa is to be endured, rather than enjoyed, while entering or leaving Egypt. There's really not much to see-the "highlight" of the area is a Chinese fish-processing plant. 440 mi/710 km north of Khartoum.
WauFounded by the French in the 1890s and home to the Dinka people and a Catholic mission, this capital of the Bhar El Ghazal Province (pop. 131,000) is where the Wau and Sue Rivers meet. The town, under government control in the current conflict, sits at the end of the southwest branch of the railway, which still operates to deliver cargo to the population. Fighting is very common in the outlying areas, especially along the railway line, and travel to Wau is highly discouraged. 310 mi/500 km northwest of Juba.