As a resort town, Puerto Vallarta's best offerings are recreation, restaurants and relaxation rather than pure sightseeing. However, there are a few sites and areas worth visiting. Start with a walk along the oceanfront promenade known as the Malecon. It's a great place for peoplewatching and sunset viewing, and it also has some wonderfully whimsical sculptures created by artists.
Strolling through the Centro can also be a treat. The most obvious architectural landmark is the city's main church, La Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe. After you've admired the interior, climb any of the staircases behind the church: You'll be rewarded with good views of the church, the city and the bay. Two other good spots for a stroll are the quiet Isla del Rio Cuale, a small island in the river, and the lively South Side neighborhood just inland from the Olas Altas and Los Muertos beaches. The quieter streets there provide a glimpse of the small fishing village Vallarta once was.
For Tennessee Williams buffs and travelers smitten with Hollywood history and lore, a minor industry has sprung up around the relics of The Night of the Iguana, which was filmed in Puerto Vallarta in the 1960s. The Mismaloya area, where much of the location work was shot, continues to draw visitors. So do the former Gringo Gulch residences of Richard Burton, the film's star, and Elizabeth Taylor (the two later married). Taylor's house, Casa Kimberly, is now a bed-and-breakfast, but tours are available daily.
Some of the most beautiful scenery along Banderas Bay is just south of the city. Day trips by taxi or bus to Mismaloya or by water taxi to Yelapa will reward you with wonderful views and pleasant beaches. If boutiques, galleries, cafes and restaurants are more your thing, you'll find plenty from the Centro to Marina Vallarta—a yacht marina and development north of the Zona Hotelera.
| Historic Sites | Top  |
This was once actress Elizabeth Taylor's home, which Richard Burton bought for her in the 1960s. After the couple married, they purchased the house directly across the street and joined the two homes by a pink bridge. Today, the houses are a bed-and-breakfast, but tours are given. Climbing to the house through the hills can be a bit of an effort, so less active folks may want to make the trip by taxi. Open Monday-Saturday 9 am-6 pm (it's best to arrive by 5 pm for the short tour). M$100. Zaragoza 445, Gringo Gulch, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 222-1336.
The Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe, with its distinctive filigree crown, is Puerto Vallarta's standout landmark. Inside, opulent examples of religious art fill the walls. A Mass (in English) takes place Saturday at 5 pm, and a bilingual Mass is held Sunday at 10 am. Daily 7 am-9 pm. Shorts and sleeveless T-shirts are prohibited inside the church. Calle Hidalgo 370, Centro, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 222-1326.
The city's main square, bordered on one side by city hall and on the other by banks and shops, is Puerto Vallarta's main hub and the spot where holidays are celebrated. The city hall's exterior has a colorful mural of the city painted by Manuel Lepe, a Puerto Vallarta native and one of Mexico's most famous artists. Avenida Independencia, Centro, Puerto Vallarta.
This is a small archaeology museum with pre-Hispanic and native exhibits culled from the surrounding region. Daily 10 am-5 pm. Free. West end of Rio Cuale, Centro, Puerto Vallarta. No phone.
| Amusement Parks | Top |
This fully equipped water park features several waterslides, a slow-moving river and free aquatic shows featuring dolphins and seals. Costs of interactions with dolphins are US$79-$139. It has a restaurant and bar, and there are numerous bungalows for rent. Daily 10 am-6 pm. Water toboggans available 11 am-5 pm. US$18 adults, US$14 children ages 4-11, free for children younger then 4. On Carretera Tepic at Km Marker 155 (just before the entrance to Nuevo Vallarta), Puerto Vallarta. Phone 297-0708. http://www.splashvallarta.com.
Most active people will find that Puerto Vallarta has enough to occupy them during their stay. The beaches provide the most obvious recreation options—the clear and generally calm waters are very good for swimming, parasailing, Jet-Skiing and kayaking—and watersports equipment can be rented from vendors right on the sand. The scene beneath the water—though not as spectacular as at Mexico's Caribbean resorts—can also be impressive. At Los Arcos and the Islas Marietas you can dive or snorkel amid reefs and grottoes that are home to an array of fish. Aspiring Ernest Hemingways can charter deep-sea-fishing vessels and spend the day hunting large marlin and sailfish. Landlubbers should not feel left out. There are eight challenging 18-hole golf courses in the area, and tennis courts are abundant.
The bay waters are generally calm, making Puerto Vallarta's beaches a boon for swimmers and a bane for surfers. Some of the beaches, however, have steep slopes, making for strong breakers close to the beach.
Playa de los Muertos is the most popular beach in Puerto Vallarta proper. It's lined with palapas and hotels, and it is usually crowded with local families, vacationers and vendors of all stripes. The blue-and-green chairs near the southern end of the beach are popular with the gay crowd. North of the Centro, stretching all the way to the marina, are the Zona Hotelera beaches. These well-kept areas are surprisingly uncrowded, and the water tends to be calm and clear. A bit more tropical is the scenic cove of Mismaloya, south of Puerto Vallarta.
This established and well-run store rents out mountain bikes and equipment. Bilingual guides offer day trips and overnights in the Sierra Madre foothills and surrounding areas. Open daily 8 am-7 pm. Calle Guerrero 361, Centro, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 223-1834. http://www.bikemex.com.
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Take guided tours to shoreline or inland bird areas with qualified ornithologist Alexandro Martinez. Binoculars and bird books provided. Overnight trips are also available. Lazaro Cardenas 268-A, E. Zapata, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 222-7407 or 299-1458. http://www.birdinginmexico.com.
The waters of Puerto Vallarta have a number of popular game fish, ranging from large catches such as marlin and sailfish to smaller specimens such as tuna, dorado, mahimahi, sea bass and red snapper. Local captains with small boats—suitable for catching only the smaller types of fish—rent their services from the beaches along the Zona Hotelera. If you're up for a more involved, rigorous pursuit of serious sport fish, you can charter a boat at Marina Vallarta, north of downtown, or through your hotel.
The Paradise Village-owned El Tigre Course, designed by the Von Hagge Group, is a popular choice. El Tigre is home to its own family of tigers. It has great water features on a par-72 course. Numerous tournaments are hosted there. Greens fees are US$145 for 18 holes including shared cart, practice balls, towels and water. A twilight rate of US$95 begins at 2 pm. Located just north of Puerto Vallarta at the entrance to Nuevo Vallarta, Puerto Vallarta. http://www.eltigregolf.com.
This 6,452-yard/6,000-m course was carved out of the encroaching jungle in 1978. After a US$3 million renovation, Flamingos is back on the international golf scene. There's an inexpensive shuttle service from town, starting at the Sheraton Hotel and heading north (call the club to get details). Greens fees US$110-$130, depending on the day. Twilight play after 2 pm is US$75-$89. Fees include cart and practice basket. Carretera Tepic, km 145 (8 mi/13 km north of the airport), Puerto Vallarta. Phone 329-296-5006. http://www.flamingosgolf.com.mx.
This scenic, lagoon-riddled 18-hole course was designed by Joe Finger and is counted among the finest in Mexico. Caddies are mandatory and work for tips. Rental clubs are available. Greens fees are US$128; twilight play is US$95, with replays at US$46. US$55 for golf lessons by appointment. Paseo de la Marina, Marina Vallarta, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 221-0073. http://www.foremexico.com/marinagolf.
Both of these ClubCorp-owned courses are about 3 mi/5 km inland from Marina Vallarta and afford views of the bay, the marina and the Sierra Madre mountains. The Jack Nicklaus-designed course hosted the 2002 World Cup championships and the Champions Tour in 2006. Greens fees are US$174 for both courses, US$122 for twilight play, and replay for US$60. Fees include a cart and range balls. Twilight rates start at 2 pm. Circuito Universidad 653, El Pitillal, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 290-0030. http://www.vistavallartagolf.com.
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There are few places in Puerto Vallarta ideally suited for jogging. Though it can get pretty crowded with pedestrians, the Malecon is probably the most fun for vigorous walkers and early joggers. You can also run on the beaches, but they're often crowded and not very level.
For serious running, try the track at Estadio Agustin Contreras Flores. A US$2 photo membership is required after your first visit. Located across the main road from the Sheraton Hotel, Puerto Vallarta.
This company provides information and maps for local hiking trails. Guided tours are also available. Open Monday-Saturday 8 am-2 pm and 4-8 pm. Calle Guerrero 361, Centro, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 223-1834.
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Horseback riding is prohibited on the beaches in Puerto Vallarta, but there are plenty of trails in the foothills of the mountains. For those who wish to ride on the beaches, try Bucerias, about 30 minutes north.
With more than 20 years of experience, this riding camp is the oldest in Puerto Vallarta and offers three- to eight-hour rides to rivers and waterfalls. Guides will pick you up at designated points in town and return you to your hotel. Open daily. First ride starts at 10 am, last ride ends at 6 pm. Children welcome. Overnight rides available with advance notice. Playa Grande, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 224-0114. http://www.ranchoelcharro.com.
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The Puerto Vallarta area has two good spots for snorkeling and diving. The waters around Los Arcos, offshore rock formations just south of downtown, are a protected ecological preserve. Harder to access, but potentially more rewarding, are the waters near the Islas Marietas, which lie at the northern entrance to Banderas Bay just off the point of Punta de Mita. Other good diving spots outside of the bay are popular for expert divers, including night dives.
Chico's offers a variety of dives throughout the Bay of Banderas, open since 1968. Certification classes available. Daily 8 am-10 pm. Prices vary. Diaz Ordaz 772, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 222-1875. http://www.puertovallartadiveshop.com.
This company offers a variety of dives, including one-day excursions and four-day packages. It also offers whale-watching and visits to its own dolphin center. Daily 8 am-8 pm. Prices vary. Paseo de las Palmas 39, Nuevo Vallarta, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 297-1212, ext. 25. Toll-free 888-303-2653 if calling from the U.S. http://www.vallarta-adventures.com.
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There are tennis courts and pros at most of the luxury hotels.
The club is at Condominium Los Tules. Lessons are available. Open daily 8 am-8 pm. Cost is M$120 an hour during the day and M$240 an hour for illuminated night play. Boulevard Fco. Medina Ascencio, Carretera al Aeropuerto, Km 2.5 Zona Hotelera, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 226-1030, ext. 740.
| Other Options | Top |
There are seven canopy tours in the Vallarta, with varying activities and prices. Ask at your hotel for convenient hotel or downtown pickup.
Swing over the jungle either north or south of Puerto Vallarta. This is the largest canopy-tours outfit in Mexico. For children older than 8 and adults in fairly good physical condition. There are also waterslides, a restaurant and swimming. Online reservations recieve a 10% discount. Phone 223-0504 or 223-0649. http://www.canopytours-vallarta.com.
Puerto Vallarta has all of the bars and nightclubs one would expect—or demand—of a tropical resort city. If you're going to a disco, be prepared to dress up. Most of the top clubs have a dress code, and locals like to get dolled up for a night on the town. There are a number of bars along the Malecon, many of which stay open until the early hours of the morning. As for live music, lesser-known places such as the J&B salsa club can offer wonderful experiences. Puerto Vallarta also attracts many gay tourists, who find action centered on Paco Paco. Nightlife generally gets going around 11 pm and continues till 5 am.
| Bars, Taverns & Pubs | Top |
This is one of the most popular bars along the Malecon: loud, crazy and very social. Don't be surprised to find college students and miscellaneous drunkards dancing on the bar—at the prodding of the staff. Daily 11 am-2:30 or 4 am. Monday and Wednesday-Saturday cover charge of M$80, or M$480 for an open bar on Thursday. No cover on Sunday and Tuesday. Paseo Diaz Ordaz 786, Centro, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 222-1444. http://www.carlos-obrians.com.
Back-slapping beer-drinking types seem to adore this place, as do both men and women looking to see and be seen. The televisions play either music videos or sports. Daily 10 am-4 am. Friday and Saturday cover for men is US$10, no cover for women. Paseo Diaz Ordaz 644, Centro, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 222-6496.
This sports bar established in 1982 has some decent food and occasional live music. Features professional sports games galore on satellite televisions throughout the bar. Open Monday-Thursday 1 pm-midnight, Friday and Saturday 1 pm-4 am. Minimum M$110 bar tab when major sports games are on. Avenida Vallarta 290, South Side, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 222-3784.
While this pizza-bar lounge caters to the gay crowd, it's quite a comfortable place to go when you want a drink, as well as something to eat or just nibble on. Great square-cut pizza, salads and other specials. Open daily 6 pm-2 am, happy hour 8-10 pm. No credit cards. Lazaro Cardenas 312, South Side, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 222-0643.
Part of a growing international chain of restaurant/bar/dance clubs that originated in Cuba, "La B del M" offers a menu of Cuban delights, a view of the Malecon, delicious
mojitos and live salsa daily that keeps the crowd moving. Soon you'll be channeling Hemingway. Daily 8 pm-2 am. Paseo Diaz Ordaz 858, Centro, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 223-1585.
| Dance & Nightclubs | Top |
This upscale disco features crazy lights and fog—and an enforced dress code. Open Tuesday-Sunday 10 pm-4 am. Cover M$300 with open bar. Avenida Las Garzas at Playas de Vallarta, Zona Hotelera, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 224-0202.
This place features club dance music and caters mostly to tourists. Beware of the enormous, frightening sculpture that graces the front window. Open Monday-Saturday from 4 pm. Friday and Saturday cover charge M$100. Paseo Diaz Ordaz 670, Centro, Puerto Vallarta.
Currently Puerto Vallarta's most popular gay bar, Manana is a southside hacienda that takes up nearly a block. It includes a swimming pool, lounges, dining, daily drink specials, a stage for shows, both drag and live music, and an area for dancing. Open daily 10 pm-6 am. M$80 cover, though it can vary on show nights. Venustiano Carranza 290, South Side, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 222-7772. http://www.manana.com.mx.
This was the most popular gay bar and disco in town, but it has been struggling because of greater competition. Check out the rooftop bar. Daily 1 pm-6 am. Cover M$50. Avenida Vallarta 278, South Side, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 222-1899.
This popular bar and dance club has a DJ. Loud and active, it serves burgers and tacos. Music daily 11 pm-5 am. Cover M$150 (one drink included). Avenida Carranza 218, South Side, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 222-5171.
The wild crowd is outdone only by the even wilder decorations, which include numerous large papier-mache animals (hippos, lions and zebras) that enliven the room. Daily 8 pm-5 am. Cover charge M$100 (two drinks included) Saturday after 11 pm. Paseo Diaz Ordaz 630, Centro, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 222-4945.
Live music has become quite popular in Puerto Vallarta. Numerous venues offer shows on weekends. Ask your concierge for suggestions.
Somewhat less frequented by tourists than other PV clubs, J&B has some authentic regional flair with salsa and other Latin music, as well as dancing. For travelers with two or more left feet, the club holds salsa dance classes Thursday at 9 pm. Live music starts around midnight Wednesday-Sunday. Daily 10 pm-6 am. Cover M$90 Wednesday-Monday. Medina Ascencio at Kilometer Marker 2, Zona Hotelera, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 224-4616.
| Other Options | Top |
If you're among the many travelers who feel they can't leave Mexico without experiencing a traditional fiesta, this is the place to go. The all-inclusive price gets you a lavish Mexican meal, an evening of traditional music and dance and fireworks. The production is a little on the contrived side but fun and festive all the same. Open Thursday and Sunday 7-11 pm. M$550 adults, M$275 children. Avenida Lazaro Cardenas 310, South Side, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 222-0105.
| Performing Arts | Top  |
The beach, the main plaza and the Malecon are the city's main stages for performing arts. Stop at the tourist information office at city hall for program information.
Presents English-language films. Insurgentes 63, South Side, Puerto Vallarta.
Presents English-language films. Fco. Villa 799, Zona Hotelera, Puerto Vallarta.
Presents English-language films. Plaza Caracol, Zona Hotelera, Puerto Vallarta.
Presents English-language films. Fco. Villa (at the Pitillal River), Puerto Vallarta.
Venues with regular Spanish-language performances include the Isla del Rio Cuale and Cecatur Theater, downtown.
This English-speaking musical theater group presents numerous productions throughout the year, primarily at the Santa Barbara Theater. See local publications for specific dates and times. Santa Barbara Theater, Olas Altas 351, South Side, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 223-2048.
| Spectator Sports | Top |
Semiprofessional and amateur baseball and soccer teams play every Saturday year-round at the Sports Stadium, located across from the Sheraton Hotel. Though there is no definite schedule for bullfights, they generally take place November-April Wednesday at 5 pm at the Plaza de Toros, which is next to Marina Vallarta and walking distance from the cruise terminal. Phone 224-2457.
Sporting events worth attending include the annual Sports Classic, usually the last weekend of May; pro-beach volleyball; golf tournaments, both national and international; several marathons during the year, and fishing and sailing competitions, each with large pots for the winners.
Although there are very few local handicrafts for sale in Puerto Vallarta, you'll find all types of crafts from other parts of Mexico—often at a slightly inflated price. Huichol Indians from Nayarit, dressed in hand-embroidered costumes, can be found selling their extraordinary beaded crafts in the main tourist areas. Throughout March, look for the Huichol (or Wixarika) selling their original work at the Plaza Caracol in a special community program that allows them to sell to the public without an intermediary or middle-man.
High-quality leather boots and jackets are good buys. Silver jewelry is also abundant (make sure it is stamped .925—this indicates that it is 925 parts per thousand, the standard for sterling silver). Quality woolen blankets and Huichol crafts are also available, but be wary of imitations and shops run by time-share salespeople. Bargaining is expected in the markets and with beach vendors, who accept U.S. dollars in addition to Mexican pesos, but prices in stores are fixed. Do not expect to buy quality silver on the beach or in the streets.
| Shopping Hours | Top |
Daily 10 am-8 pm. Some stores may close 2-4 pm for siesta, although that practice is becoming less common. Stores catering to tourists are likely to stay open until 10 pm.
| Antique Stores | Top |
This store features antiques, rustic furniture and collectibles from Mexico, Indonesia and Central America in a luxury warehouse setting. Handmade items are emphasized. (A second location on Lazaro Cardenas, around the corner.) Monday-Saturday 10 am-6 pm. Calle Constitucion 319, South Side, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 223-9871. http://www.banderasbaytradingcompany.com.
New and newly released books plus magazines and newspapers—all in English—fill the bookcases at this shop. (A second location inside the Plaza Caracol at the Zona Hotelera.) Monday-Saturday 9 am-8 pm, Sunday 11 pm-6 pm. Calle Venustiano Carranza 334 at Insurgentes, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 223-9437.
| Department Stores | Top |
This is the largest and nicest department store in town, with clothing, furnishings and appliances. (A second location in the Plaza Caracol at the Zona Hotelera.) Daily 10 am-9 pm. Calle Juarez 867, Centro, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 223-2829.
A free Art Walk map is available to tour the local galleries every Wednesday 6-10 pm.
This gallery is located on Leona Vicario, the "art street." Beatriz, an artist herself, features contemporary artists primarily from Vallarta or Guadalajara. Leona Vicario 241, Centro, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 223-1967.
This gallery carries contemporary paintings and sculpture by Mexican artists in Vallarta. Open Monday-Saturday 10 am-9 pm. Calle Dominguez 155, Centro, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 222-4406. http://www.galeriaal.com.
Operated by charming Estella Camacho, this fine gallery features some of the best artists of folk art, such as the amazing ceramic figures of La Catrina, or Lady Death, as well as other figures and hand-thrown pottery. Libertad 285, Centro, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 222-6960.
Recognized names in the Mexican art world—such as Jorge Marin, Juan Soriano and Alberto Castro Lenero—are among the selections at this gallery, which has become a standby for international collectors. (An additional location in the Plaza Peninsula, Zona Hotelera.) Monday-Friday 10 am-6 pm. Calle Leona Vicario 230, Centro, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 223-1821. http://www.galeriacorsica.com.
The fine pottery of artist Juan Quezada from the village of Mata Ortiz in Chihuahua, which is known worldwide, is based on pre-Hispanic designs of the Paquime Indians. (A second location in the Plaza Peninsula, Zona Hotelera.) Open Monday-Saturday 10 am-6:30 pm. Calle Lazaro Cardenas 268-A, South Side, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 222-7407. http://www.mataortiz-pottery.com.
Fine-art photographs and works by contemporary Mexican artists grace the walls of this gallery. Open Monday-Saturday 11 am-10 pm. Calle Leona Vicario 249, Centro, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 222-5587. http://www.galeriaomaralonso.com.
Expect contemporary paintings and sculpture from masters. Open Monday-Saturday 10 am-9 pm by appointment. Owner Gary Thompson offers a free Malecon Sculpture Walk Tuesday at 9 am. Calle Aldama 174, Centro, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 222-0908.
The oldest gallery in town offers contemporary art from internationally known artists, including Alejandro Colunga, Oscar Zamarripa and Sergio Galvan. Open Monday-Saturday 10 am-8 pm. Calle Morelos 561, Centro, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 222-0908.
The vast collection of sculpture in different media includes works by Gabriel Colunga and Guillermo Gomez, as well as paintings by local favorites. Open Monday-Friday 10 am-5 pm, Saturday by appointment only. Closed June-August, but viewings can be arranged by appointment. Calle Basilio Badillo 269, South Side, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 222-2477. http://www.galleriadante.com.
This native son of Mexico originally sold whimsical, papier-mache animal sculptures and has since branched out into larger sculptures in bronze or ceramic, as well as fine jewelry. He has a series of galleries, with two locations in Puerto Vallarta. Open Monday-Saturday 10 am-9 pm, Sunday 11 am-6 pm. Paseo Diaz Ordaz 542, Centro, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 222-5480. http://www.sergiobustamante.com.mx.
The Loft features some of the most exquisite choices in the creative arts, such as local watercolorist Meg Munro and photographers Alexandro Zenker, Camila Manero and Xavier Manuel. Operated by associates Ruben Cham and John Strawn, both inveterate specialists in the art world. Corona 176-A, Centro, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 222-6353. http://www.theloftgaleria.com.
Originally the central produce market, Mercado Municipal is now rife with souvenirs, flowers, pinatas, blankets and, well, junk. Upstairs are several inexpensive food stands. Expect to pay in cash for any items you haggle for. Daily 9 am-7 pm. At the corner of Calle Rodriguez and Calle Libertad (near Rio Cuale), Centro, Puerto Vallarta.
| Shopping Areas | Top |
The Gran Plaza in front of the cruise-ship terminal can be a good place to shop. Otherwise, the streets inland from the Malecon and the South Side of the port have plenty of shops, galleries and boutiques. Shops within the Hotel Zone include Plaza Caracol and Plaza Peninsula. Another good shopping area is Marina Vallarta, which boasts Plaza Marina and Plaza Neptuno.
Areas to shop within the Hotel Zone include Plaza Caracol and Plaza Peninsula.
Shopping areas around Marina Vallarta include Plaza Marina and Plaza Neptuno.
| Specialty Stores | Top |
This designer has been wowing audiences abroad as well as in Mexico with his dramatic and one-of-a-kind necklaces and bracelets. Open Monday-Saturday 10 am-8 pm. Calle Morelos 600, Centro, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 223-0863. http://www.danielespinosa.com.
One of the official importers of Cuban cigars, this air-conditioned smoking lounge also offers coffee and a full bar. Open Monday-Saturday noon-9 pm. Calle Aldama 170, Centro, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 223-2758. http://www.lacasadelhabano.cu.
This is Vallarta's top designer of cotton and lace women's clothing. Open Monday-Saturday 10 am-3 pm and in high season 5-9 pm. Calle Basilio Badillo 329, South Side, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 113-0102 or 222-3074.
There you'll find a vast collection of Mexican handicrafts, from Oaxacan painted wooden fantasy animals to Talavera ceramics, at the best prices. Open Monday-Saturday 10 am-2 pm and 6-10 pm. Closed mid-May to mid-October. Calle Basilio Badillo 295, South Side, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 222-4839.
This place has a large selection of handmade tiles and ceramics. Murals and house plaques are made to order in two to three days. Open Monday-Friday 9 am-7 pm, Saturday 9 am-2 pm. Calle Carranza 374, South Side, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 222-2675. http://www.talavera-tile.com.
This folk-art store stands out among the many in town for the quality of the art and the reasonable prices. Choose from examples of Huichol yarn paintings and beadwork, Oaxacan wooden animals and black-clay pottery, Mayan folk art from Chiapas and more, without any time-share salespeople. Open Monday-Friday 11 am-8 pm, Saturday and Sunday 10 am-6 pm. Juarez 222, Centro, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 223-2302 or 222-6268. http://www.peyotepeople.com.
A whimsical gallery and store of popular art, Puerco Azul features a heavy emphasis on pigs and a slightly lighter one on chickens and cows. Ceramics, paintings and clothing, both traditional and otherwise. Open Monday-Saturday 10 am-6 pm. Calle Constitucion 325, South Side, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 222-8647. http://www.leechapmangallery.com.
Go there for leather boots and jackets—some in exotic skins. Jackets are made to order in three to four days; custom-made boots will be shipped to your home. Daily 10 am-10 pm. Paseo Diaz Ordaz 802, Centro, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 223-1769.
High-end silver pieces designed by the best of the Taxco artisans—including many in the tradition of its foremost silversmith, William Spratling—are set with semiprecious stones. Monday-Saturday 10 am-10 pm. Calle Mexico 1255, Centro, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 223-3012.
To
Mismaloya.
The Night of the Iguana was filmed in this small fishing community in 1963, and since then the village has evolved into a resort area.
Palapa-style restaurants line the beach, and you can rent Jet Skis and kayaks at the local dive shop. Mismaloya can be experienced in a few hours, or you could spend an entire day there, depending on your desired activities. It's 6 mi/10 km south of Puerto Vallarta on the coastal highway. Public buses (M$5.50) run frequently from the corner of Basilio Badillo and Constitucion on Puerto Vallarta's South Side.
To El Eden. Across the highway from the entrance to Mismaloya is the road that winds up the mountain about 4 mi/7 km to El Eden, a restaurant and miniresort hidden among jungle vegetation and best known as the location where much of the movie Predator was shot. A burned-out helicopter used in the Arnold Schwarzenegger action flick marks the restaurant's entrance, and the movie theme is loosely referenced throughout. The Mismaloya River runs alongside the restaurant and features a number of small cascades, swimming areas, rope swings, and a canopy-tour through the jungle. Many families pack a picnic lunch and spend the day swimming with their children there, although a couple of hours of frolicking and eating in the restaurant may be sufficient for some. If you've taken the bus from Puerto Vallarta to the Mismaloya entrance, the easiest way to El Eden is by taxi, which should be about M$180 each way. Chino's Paraiso is a similar restaurant and swimming area on the way up to El Eden (only 1 mi/2 km from the highway), should you not care to venture all the way to Schwarzenegger territory.
To Boca de Tomatlan and Chico's Paradise (Las Juntas). Boca is the last village on Banderas Bay reachable by the coastal highway south of Puerto Vallarta. It's at the mouth of Rio Tomatlan and has beautiful mountain and jungle scenery. It's also the spot where you can catch water taxis to such remote beaches as Las Animas and Yelapa. Las Juntas, upriver from Boca, is a small mountain village (not to be confused with Las Juntas and Los Veranos, which is south of Vallarta). The river flows through it in a series of picturesque cascades. Above the river is Chico's Paradise, a popular multideck restaurant. Boca de Tomatlan can be reached by taking a public bus from the corner of Basilio Badillo and Constitucion on Puerto Vallarta's South Side. Chico's Paradise is near the highway's Km. Marker 20.
To Yelapa. This small coastal village south of Puerto Vallarta is reachable only by boat. The small cove is lined with palms and ringed by verdant hills and lush jungle, and its idyllic beach and vegetation create a South Seas atmosphere. A river running into the cove divides the beach, on the north side, from the village to the south. Behind the village is a waterfall, and another lies upriver, accessible by hiking or renting horses on the beach. The ladies selling baked goods on the beach are famous, and you're missing out if you don't try a slice of their coconut cream pie. If you're up for some cerveza (beer) and fresh seafood, beachfront restaurants are there to oblige.
To get to Yelapa, you can take a boat from Boca de Tomatlan or from the pier at Playa de los Muertos. Water taxis at these locations make a few trips daily at around 10 or 10:30 am and return in the afternoon around 3 or 4—about M$220 round-trip. Various fancy cruise boats—the Princess Yelapa, El Sombrero and a couple of others—offer a more luxurious way of reaching Yelapa from Puerto Vallarta. These pick up passengers at the Terminal Maritima and Los Muertos pier and drop them off for about two hours. Costs range M$450-$800 and generally include free drinks, live music, dancing and sometimes even a stop for snorkeling.
To Las Animas. This picturesque beach features a sweeping arc of rocky promontories and white sand. (And if you see the ghost of a pirate searching for his lost treasure, you'll know the origin of this area's name, "The Spirits.") The beachfront has some quaint and traditional seafood restaurants, and the waters are usually good for swimming or snorkeling. Lacking, though, are overnight accommodations. If you want to go directly to Las Animas from Puerto Vallarta and bypass Boca de Tomatlan, a water taxi departs from Los Muertos pier around 10 am and returns around 3 or 4 pm. The cost is about M$220 round-trip (twice what you'd pay from Boca de Tomatlan).
There is a wide selection of tours in Puerto Vallarta, ranging from air-conditioned bus tours of the city to Jeep tours of nearby jungles and ranches. Popular bay cruises allow you to watch whales, birds or sunsets. The Islas Marietas are a nice destination by boat, and bus tours will take you to the coastal towns of San Blas and Barra de Navidad. Many companies offer English-speaking guides and a wide variety of outing options, with a particular focus on the natural beauty of Banderas Bay.
Although companies may be contacted directly, you may notice tours advertised in the many information kiosks throughout Vallarta. The kiosks usually hold time-share salespeople who might offer you heavily discounted rates in exchange for your attendance at a presentation. The discounts are real, but be forewarned that the high-pressure sales presentations can eat up a large chunk of your day.
This growing company offers numerous tours throughout the Banderas Bay area including city tours, tequila tours, canopy adventures, Jeeps and 4x4s, mountain- and rain-forest expeditions, trips into a Huichol village in the mountains, day trips to San Blas and the mangrove swamp at La Tovara, to San Sebastian in the mountains, night-party tours and more. Ask about pickup at your hotel or other points in the city. Carretera Tepic-Vallarta No. 66, Mezcales, Nayarit, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 329-296-5587. Toll-free 800-502-0622. http://www.ttf.com.mx.
A relatively small operation with more than 12 years in the business, Ecotours programs offer strong environmental-education tours. Biologists lead excellent whale-watching (15 December-March) and turtle-camp (August-December) excursions; the latter involves releasing protected sea-turtle hatchlings into the wild. Other Ecotours adventures include bird-watching, snorkeling, scuba diving, sea kayaking and hiking. The headquarters is also a dive shop. Open Monday-Saturday 9 am-9 pm, Sunday 10 am-2 pm and 4-8 pm. Ignacio L. Vallarta 243, South Side (there is an additional location in Marina Vallarta, Proa local 20, Edificio Marina del Rey. Phone 209-2995), Puerto Vallarta. Phone 223-3130 or 222-6606. http://www.ecotoursvallarta.com.