Niger Things to See & Do Guide

Day 1—Arrive Niamey.

Day 2—Niamey.

Day 3—Start early and drive to Agadez.

Day 4—Drive to Zinder (this is a 10-hour drive).

Day 5—Zinder.

Day 6—Start early for the very long drive to Dosso.

Day 7—Visit Park W. Overnight near park.

Day 8—Park W. Overnight near park or, if your flight departs early the next day, return to Niamey.

Day 9—Return to Niamey and depart Niger.

This city of 30,000, located near the center of Niger, is often referred to as the sister city of Timbuktu. It's simply fascinating. If you approach overland, you'll see it rise right out of the desert: Its distinctive sand-brick architecture blends in so well with the Sahel you may think it's a mirage. Three tribes walk the streets: the Fulani, who wear large, sombrerolike hats and ride donkeys; the Hausa, merchants dressed in long robes and colorful pillbox hats; and the nomadic Tuaregs who give chilling looks from beneath massive turbans.

Agadez is very spread out, austere and dusty—it gives you a real sense of being on the frontier. There's not much to do but walk around the small market (it's filled with interesting characters), look at the multistory 16th-century mosque and browse in the silver shops.

If the political situation permits, excursions can be arranged to go by camel or other conveyance into the nearby Air Mountains, home of the Tuaregs and also home to the Tuareg rebellion. This area can be somewhat dicey—the locals are prone to a little banditry now and then (all in the name of the cause). Guides will insist that it is safe but that you need permission from a variety of government officials. They will also insist that you have to pay them a lot of money for their services.

If you don't have your own transportation, this may actually be the best option, although you can save some time by simply going to the Prefecture yourself and asking permission to travel "in the bush" (then, of course, you can bargain your guide down a bit). Not that it matters, though: The gendarmerie will have nothing to do with the areas immediately north of Agadez, so you can pretty much come and go as you please—at your own risk. We don't recommend taking this trip until the situation has stabilized.

Note: All travel to the Air Massif, Tenere and Kaouar regions is unadvisable because of recent clashes between Nigerien security forces and armed groups. Also, all travel to the Azawagh area—particularly between the Malian and Algerian borders and the Nigerian towns of Tahoua and Ingall—and to the east of Air Massif and the area north of Iferouane up to the Algerian border, is not advised. The road between Niamey and Agadez is in very good condition, but the road between Zinder and Agadez has a break in the asphalt of more than 60 mi/100 km—where the sand can get quite deep. 400 mi/645 km northeast of Niamey.

A fascinating Sunday market and a nice hotel and restaurant overlooking the Niger River make Ayorou worth a stop. On Sundays, the market teems with Tuareg, Fulani and Djerma traders who live in the surrounding bush and in villages along the river. The pleasant hotel and restaurant overlooking the river, which was built by a private company several years ago, has since been taken over by the government. Nevertheless, although there is no electricity for the lights and air conditioners, the facilities are good, and the prices are negotiable. There are several hippopotami to be found in the river, and for a small fee you can hire a boat to take you on a tour to see them and the neighboring villages. Ayorou can also be seen as a day trip from Tillaberi (which has slightly better facilities)—the once terrible road there is being improved. Or, if you're adventurous, you can also catch a motorized boat connecting Ayorou with nearly all the market villages along the Niger (the journey makes for a long, hot day). 110 mi/180 km northwest of Niamey.

"Konni," for short, is mostly a road stop for travelers on their way to Maradi or Zinder. Indeed, it looks the part. However, if you have the time or inclination, you'll find that Konni does have a fair amount of character. The Konni marketplace is a dense and bustling scene, even by African standards, and offers a substantial black market for goods from Nigeria, which is only 3 mi/5 km away. The bar and hotel Relais is a clean and entertaining establishment, and the bar Viet Nam, a favorite hangout for Peace Corps volunteers, has an interesting display of murals. 200 mi/320 km east of Niamey.

This town of 189,000 is the customary overnight stop when traveling between Niamey and Zinder. Maradi's location in the center of the country and near the Nigerian border brings interesting people and commodities to its marketplace. It has a lively nightlife, and you can find good food and pleasant accommodations with little trouble. 320 mi/515 km east of Niamey.

Located in the farthest reaches of eastern Niger, N'Guigmi is the last town on the dirt road to Chad. It's a gray, dusty frontier outpost that feels very much like the end of the road. The market to the south does a big trade in camels, because the area is primarily populated by nomadic people, the Canori and Toubou. The Toubou, who are particularly imposing, produce interesting leather and metal work, including sharp knives in colorful red scabbards that the men wear strapped on their arms. There are a couple of bars in N'Guigmi, but no hotels-it is possible to camp out in the police compound. The French volunteers in N'Guigmi over the past several years have been known to welcome the odd visitor.

The greatest attraction of N'Guigmi is its proximity to the Tal Desert, which lies three hours by camel to the northwest. It's fairly easy to rent camels and a guide for a fascinating journey out to a pristine area of endless tall dunes and majestic silence. This excursion, however, is definitely for the seasoned traveler. 575 mi/925 km east of Niamey.

Niger's capital, located in the far western region of the country, is a lively, fairly modern city of 748,600. Niamey offers unique open-air markets that are great for people-watching—they're patronized by members of the Tuareg, Sonuri and Fulani tribes. The grande marche, or main market, in the center of town is a fascinating maze of stalls and counters selling virtually everything, from cloth and meat to fancy new stereo equipment. Close by is the petite marche, a smaller version of the grande marche, and Score, a large Lebanese-owned grocery store selling good French foods (at a hefty price). Next to the petite marche is a line of stalls known in the expat community as "rip-off row," where you'll find a great selection of woodwork, clothing, arts and crafts, presided over by zealous salespeople who love the sight of foreigners. If you bargain hard, you can get a lot of good stuff.

The town's other main attractions are the Grand Mosque (ask permission before entering) and the outdoor National Museum, one of the finest museums in Africa (it displays local artifacts, cultural exhibits and even animals—although the bare cages and neurotic animals are heart-wrenching to see). The museum also houses an artisans cooperative, where the quality is first-rate (the jewelry is particularly fine) and the prices are a little high, yet reasonable (and surprisingly nonnegotiable).

The city's stadium, the Stade du 29 Juillet, sometimes has sporting events, soccer being far and away the most popular. The Franco-Nigerien cultural center is a well-managed facility with state-of-the-art information systems, a well-endowed library, a nice bar and cafe and an amphitheater used for French and African film screenings, performance art and dramatic productions. Just across town, on the Rue des Ambassades, the U.S. recreation center has a softball field, a pool, a basketball court and a diner.

There are numerous bars and restaurants in Niamey, and even the odd nightclub. Three open-air cinemas can be found in the city.

For more adventurous outings, it's possible to take a ride in a pirogue (dugout canoe) on the Niger to see hippos in pools.

For an interesting day trip, go to the market town of Baleyara, about 60 mi/100 km northeast of Niamey on a good paved road. Though some areas have a seamy, road-stop appearance, most of the town and surrounding bush is framed majestically by towering acacia trees. Although Baleyara is primarily a Djerma-speaking area, there are many villages of Bella Tuaregs to be found, and it is located near the transition zone to the Hausa-speaking areas to the north.

Another interesting side trip is to Koure, a small town about 30 mi/50 km southeast of Niamey. Although it's not found on many maps, it is important as the center of an area roamed by a herd of giraffes—the last remaining free-range herd in West Africa. The area is not controlled in any way, but there are trained guides in Koure who know the trails, the movement patterns of the giraffes and the local ecology (beware of false guides on the road to Koure). They command a flat fee and willingly accept tips but do not have their own vehicles. The best way to see the giraffes is by four-wheel-drive vehicle, and the dry season (November-February) is the best time to see them. Koure is located just south of the paved road heading east out of Niamey toward Dosso. 450 mi/725 km west of Zinder.

This game reserve, which lies just two hours south of Niamey (near the town of Dosso), is home to elephants, gazelles, lions, baboons and waterbucks. Niger shares the reserve with its neighbors, Benin, Togo and Burkina Faso. Though it's only a short drive from the capital, plan to stay overnight at the hotel on the edge of the park or camp at the official campsite (fairly expensive) recently constructed by the government. It is possible to get permission at park headquarters to enter the park with a guide, but you should make prior arrangements (in Niamey) for meals and sleeping accommodations. At Park W, the best viewing is at dawn at the watering holes near park headquarters. Visit from November to March (the park is closed during the summer months). 65 mi/105 km south of Niamey.

Tillaberi, which lies along the Niger River between Niamey and Ayorou, has been listed as having the highest average annual temperature in the world. Walking among the closely set mud-brick buildings during the hot season can be very trying. The Sunday market is very large-so much so, in fact, that there is a "premarket" market on Saturday, although some contend that this is a concession to the many people who want to head to Ayorou's market on Sunday. Although there are several bars along the paved road, the most enjoyable place to relax and survey the bustling scene along the river is at the government rest house (campement) in the northern part of town. It is a well-kept hotel and bar/restaurant that has clean, air-conditioned rooms at very low prices. 55 mi/90 km northwest of Niamey.

The former colonial capital (pop. 202,300), Zinder has a great walled market where you can buy, among other things, camel paraphernalia—saddles, blankets, reins and even dried camel dung (it's burned as fuel). There's also an old Foreign Legion fort that brings Beau Geste to mind. Many of the buildings in Zinder have elaborately decorated walls and gates. There are several stores near the center of town that stock food and goods not normally found outside Niamey, and the street stalls and restaurants generally offer decent meals at reasonable prices. Quiet and slow paced, Zinder is a good place to recharge the batteries after exhausting forays into the bush. Plan one night. 450 mi/725 km east of Niamey.