To get a feel for Nairobi, first visit the City Market on Muindi Mbingu Street, which is a vibrant place. There are butchers, fresh-flower stalls, an array of colorful fruit and vegetables, and crafts and curios where you will be able to haggle with the traders. Interestingly, the market was originally built as an airport hangar. Curio markets are held in different places all over the city on designated days of the week. Among Nairobi's other attractions are the National Museum (ethnographic, paleontological and ornithological displays) and the superb Kenya Railway Museum.
For those who can't wait to see animals (or who are visiting just Nairobi), the nearby Nairobi National Park has lions, giraffes, impala and more. (Early morning and late afternoon are the best times to see animals.) At the edge of the park, the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust houses elephant and rhino orphans and allows visitors to watch the baby animals being fed.
Or you can take a rather pricey taxi ride to the Giraffe Centre, where the Rothschild giraffe was saved from extinction and where you can feed the animals. This excursion to Langata is often combined with a visit to the home of Karen Blixen (who wrote Out of Africa under the name Isak Dinesen). Blixen's farmhouse, which was presented to the Kenyan government by Denmark, is now a museum. You can also see the Kazuri Bead Factory and the Butterfly Centre, both in Karen, an area named for the author. On Sunday, you can join a group trip to nyama choma ranches in Ngong, a three-hour drive outside the city. Olepolos meat ranch is a favorite, with great views of the Maasai plains.
There are a number of casinos in Nairobi, and most are open until the early hours of the morning. The oldest is the International Casino on Museum Hill. Open Monday-Friday 9 pm-3 am, Saturday-Sunday 4 pm-3:30 am (phone 742-600). There are slot machines, a range of gaming tables and the Bubbles nightclub; dress smartly. There are other casinos in the InterContinental Hotel on Uhuru Highway, phone 212-353, and in the Safari Park Hotel, Thika Road (phone 802-493).
| Historic Sites | Top  |
Called "Africa's most photographed house," the African Heritage House is filled with arts and crafts from across the African continent. The house is an ingenious combination of traditional and modern African design. Sometimes fashion and entertainment shows are held there, accompanied by dinner. There's also a city branch that has a cafe; it's on Banda Street, off Kenyatta Avenue. Tours by appointment only. Mombasa Road (10 mi/16 km from Nairobi), Nairobi. Phone 530-054.
Dating from the 1930s, this building, with its distinctive clock tower, is one of the city's major landmarks. Inside, be sure to see the statue of Jomo Kenyatta, needlework tapestries made by the East African Women's League showing Kenya's history, a mosaic of Kenyan tribes, and a table made from samples of Kenyan trees. To arrange a visit, call first or talk to the guards at the gate. If the parliament is sitting, you can also ask to sit in the visitor's gallery to watch. Monday-Friday 9 am-6 pm. Free. Parliament Road, Nairobi. Phone 284-800.
Boma means "homestead," and this open-air museum features guided tours of 11 different styles of traditional houses in Kenya. You can also watch a performance of authentic, traditional dance and song. The restaurant serves
nyama choma, a grilled-meat meal that is probably Kenya's national festive delicacy outside of the home. This place may seem quite touristy to some, and it is overpriced, although the dancing is good. Monday-Friday 2:30-4 pm, Saturday and Sunday 3:30-5:30 pm. 600 KSh adults, 300 KSh children. Forest Edge Road, off Langata Road (less than a mile/kilometer past the main entrance to the Animal Orphanage and Nairobi National Park), Nairobi. Phone 891-802; alternate numbers are 891-801 or 890-793.
The restored house and grounds contain period furniture and photographs of Danish author Karen Blixen of
Out of Africa fame, who used the pen name Isak Dinesen. The house was originally a coffee plantation out in the country, but now it finds itself on the outskirts of Nairobi. The quiet, tree-lined roads and older homes with large yards make this a pleasant place to visit. The Karen Blixen Coffee Gardens restaurant is just up the road, adjacent to a particularly interesting old settler's house. Daily 9:30 am-6 pm. 800 KSh adults. Karen Road (16 mi/25 km from the city center), Karen, Nairobi. Phone 882-779. http://www.karenblixen.com.
Nairobi exists because of the Uganda Railway. This museum is fascinating and should not be missed, even though it's a bit hard to find. It's filled with wonderful historical photographs and relics from old trains, as well as actual trains you can climb onto. (One of them is the carriage in which one Charles Ryall was dozing in 1900 when a lion seized him through the window, broke his neck and dragged him to his death.) The museum is still connected to the railway, allowing steam locomotives onto the main railway line on excursions. The Kenya Railway Corporation operates a train ride to Naivasha on the second Saturday of every month. It's best to take a taxi to the museum. Daily 8:15 am-4:45 pm. 200 KSh adults. Station Road (in the rail compound at the corner of Haile Selassie and Uhuru Highway), Nairobi. Phone 221-211.
The museum contains the Leakey family discoveries at Tanzania's Olduvai Gorge and at Koobi Fora in northern Kenya, including the complete 1.6-million-year-old skeleton of Homo erectus. The wildlife displays haven't been updated for years, but you may want to view the range of weapons, ornaments and headdresses of various Kenyan tribes—a good introduction to the country and its peoples. Also on view are beautiful watercolors by Joy Adamson, displays about Kenya's modern history, an extensive ornithological collection and contemporary art from across eastern Africa.
Within the museum grounds is a snake park with live African snakes (puff adders, black and green mambas, and other reptiles). There's a free bird walk every Wednesday, leaving at 8:30 am from the museum parking lot, returning at about 12:30 pm. There are also craft shops there, and the museum shop sells a range of interesting books on animals and plants. Daily 9:30 am-6 pm. 800 KSh (plus an additional 200 KSh to get into the snake park). Museum Hill Road (off Chiromo Road), Nairobi. Phone 374-2131, 374-2133 or 374-2134. http://www.museums.or.ke.
On the ground floor is a public gallery containing the Murumbi collection of furniture, ethnography, antiques, weapons and domestic artifacts. Joseph Murumbi, cofounder of the African Heritage House, was Kenya's most famous collector, and his acquisitions of books, original manuscripts (from explorers such as Livingstone), and historical papers and photographs are displayed one floor up. Monday-Friday 8:30 am-4:30 pm, Saturday and Sunday 9 am-3 pm. Free. Moi Avenue and Tom Mboya Street (across from the Hilton Hotel), Nairobi. Phone 228-959. http://www.kenyarchives.go.ke.
| Zoos & Wildlife | Top |
Escape into a beautiful tropical world with thousands of Kenyan butterflies. It's a serene garden, with orchids, water lilies, koi-filled pools and a waterfall, all operated by the African Butterfly Research Institute. Some of the butterflies are the size of small birds and they are very colorful. Daily 9 am-4:30 pm. 500 KSh adults. 256 Dagoretti Road (past the Hardy Shopping Centre), Karen, Nairobi. Phone 884-872.
At the edge of Nairobi National Park, the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust allows visitors to see adorable baby elephants and rhino orphans being fed. It's a great way to see the babies up close and to learn about how the trainers care for them and eventually reintroduce them into the wild. The center is run by Daphne Sheldrick, the wife of the late David Sheldrick, who was instrumental in creating the Tsavo National Park. Daphne invented the first milk formula that could be given to baby elephants (babies can die within a day without milk). Her remarkable story can be read about in her book
Orphans of Tsavo. Daily 11 am-noon. Free, but donations requested. Magadi Road (go through the Maintenance gate and follow the signs to parking area), Nairobi. Phone 890-053.
This 44-sq-mi/114-sq-km park on the outskirts of town is fenced on the Nairobi side but open to the migration of wildlife from the surrounding countryside. It's possible to see rhinos, hippos, lions, leopards, giraffes, zebras, cheetahs, warthogs, antelope and more than 400 kinds of birds (about the only famous African animal
not found in this park is the elephant). You might want to consider hiring a driver with a Land Rover or taking a half-day tour with a safari operator in a minivan with an elevated roof. These offer better game viewing than a taxi.
The park itself consists of plains, forests, watercourses and deep, rocky gorges. On clear mornings at the Impala Observation Point, you'll find an elevated, panoramic view of the Athi plains and (on a very clear day) Mount Kilimanjaro. Near the hippo pools is an ideal picnic site, and in the area is a nature trail shaded by acacia and shared with vervet monkeys (a ranger will guide you, if you wish). It is a unique experience to watch animals on the plains with the high-rises of Nairobi as a backdrop. Daily 6 am-6 pm. Prices are posted in U.S. currency. US$23 adults. Visitors must buy a SmartCard at the visitor's office for entry—it can be paid in Kenya shillings. Vehicle fee is usually US$3. Langata Road, Nairobi. Phone 500-622. http://www.kws.org.
At the edge of Nairobi National Park is the Animal Orphanage, home to orphaned, sick or problem animals from all over Kenya. Where possible, the animals are rehabilitated and released back into the wild. The best time to visit is at 2:30 pm, which is feeding time. Built in 1963, some of the concrete enclosures are a little cramped, but recently the Kenya Wildlife Service has been replacing these with more spacious and more natural-looking compounds. The Safari Walk is a fairly new addition to the orphanage; a raised boardwalk with interesting information plaques about the flora and fauna takes you around the animal enclosures. Daily 8:30 am-5:30 pm. US$5. Langata Road, at the headquarters of Kenya Wildlife Services, Nairobi. Phone 500-622. http://www.kws.org.
This place saved Rothschild giraffes from extinction. You can see them up close and even get slobbered by their long, purple-black tongues as they take food pellets from your hand. This is a fantastic experience, especially for children. Warthogs, bushbuck and dik-diks are also on the property. If you go by cab, which can be fairly expensive, negotiate a round-trip price and have the driver wait for you. If you're planning a day in Karen, you could hire a car and driver for the day at a lower rate. Alternatively, many tour operators arrange half- or full-day tours of this region. Daily 9 am-5:30 pm. 500 KSh adults, 250 Ksh children. Gogo Falls Road off Koitobos Road (about 11 mi/18 km from the city center), Langata, Nairobi. Phone 891-658 or phone 890-952. http://www.giraffecentre.org.
The better hotels in Nairobi have health clubs, tennis courts and swimming pools for use by guests. Some (such as the Serena and the Norfolk) make their facilities available to nonguests for a daily fee. Alternatively, the Limuru Country Club has a full range of sporting facilites such as tennis and squash, and you can join as a temporary member.
| Bird Watching | Top |
Kenya is famous for having a wide variety of bird life. You can see many birds at the various game parks, or you can go to the Nairobi Arboretum, close to the city.
This is the nearest place in Nairobi for bird-watching. The forested park covers 74 acres/30 hectares and is home to many species of indigenous plants and more than 100 species of birds, as well as Sykes and vervet monkeys and butterflies. There are picnic places, jogging trails and nature trails, and at the entrance you can buy a booklet on tree identification. Open daily 8 am-5 pm. Arboretum Road, off State House Road and the Uhuru Highway, Nairobi. Phone 374-9957 or 374-9986. http://www.naturekenya.org.
These 18 holes are beautifully set amid tea fields. Off Limuru Road (about 20 mi/32 km from Nairobi), Limuru. Phone 0154-41351.
This club offers some of the most beautiful fairways in Kenya. It's near the Rift Valley at 6,600 ft/2,200 m. The course is very hilly and provides a challenging 18 holes. Waiyaki Way (11 mi/18 km northwest of Nairobi), Kikuyu. Phone 0154-32144.
One of the country's top-rated clubs, and it's located in a verdant patch of forest. Ridgeway Road (about 7 mi/11 km from the city center), Nairobi. Phone 862-300. http://www.windsorgolfresort.com.
Venturing out for a taste of Nairobi's nightlife is not for the nervous or meek. Most Nairobi bars are in dicey neighborhoods, and we can't recommend them to travelers. If you do head out for a night on the town, go in a group or at least as a pair, and take taxis rather than walk. Entrance fees for nightclubs tend to be cheaper for women. The large international hotels are the best places to go for a drink. Locals and expats mingle at bars in the Norfolk (the Lord Delamere Terrace and Bar), Intercontinental and Serena hotels or at the Carnivore restaurant's Simba Saloon or at the Pavement.
| Bars, Taverns & Pubs | Top |
Located in the Tropicana Restaurant, this is one of the most popular spots for sundowners (late-afternoon drinks) among expats and locals. It's got a Mediterranean atmosphere, with the feel of a Spanish bodega. Monday-Saturday from noon, Sunday from 5 pm. Westlands Shopping Centre (opposite Barclays Bank), Westlands, Nairobi. Phone 444-0836.
This club is a nice place for enjoying a quiet drink outside or a game of pool inside. Wednesday is Western Night, featuring country music and a buffet of African food and barbecue. Nightly from 5. Parklands Road, Westlands, Nairobi. Phone 253-567.
Cool lighting and comfortable, swallow-you-up sofas create a chic, upscale cocktail bar for the trendy. It's open till late and plays mostly quiet mood music. Off Waiyaki way at ABC Place, Nairobi. Phone 445-1875.
| Dance & Nightclubs | Top |
An upscale club that attracts mostly middle-aged adults. Monday-Saturday from 6 pm. 300 KSh on weekends, free during the week. Cianda House, Koinange Street, Nairobi. Phone 218-298.
The Florida nightclubs are institutions in Nairobi and are famous for their crowded dance floors and great music. Be aware that there'll be a certain amount of solicitation—prostitutes abound. But if you go in a group, you won't be harassed.
Never leave a drink unattended; it might get spiked. A wonderful cabaret show starts at 1 am most nights. Nightly from 7. 200 KSh for women, 400 KSh for men. Moi Avenue, Nairobi. Phone 229-036.
Located in the futuristic-looking Panari Towers, not far from the airport on Mombasa Road, the Liquid Room offers an upscale club for those who want a quieter scene than the City Centre. Panari Towers, Nairobi. Phone 828-198.
A smaller version of Florida 2000. A popular cabaret show starts at 12:15 am with a burst of sequins and feathers. Nightly from 7. 100 KSh for women, 200 KSh for men. Koinange Street, Nairobi. Phone 334-870.
Provides a musical spectrum on Wednesday and Friday-Sunday nights. Friday currently features Asian or reggae night, with local bands on stage. Wednesday night is rock night, and disco is featured on Saturday and Sunday. Other special nights offer live African music or jazz. Wednesday-Sunday from 6 pm. 200 KSh-300 KSh. Langata Road, Nairobi. Phone 602-766. http://www.tamarind.co.ke.
Check with the management for details about the live music planned—it could be soul or African (with dancers on stage). Tuesday and Thursday are karaoke nights. Good bar and extensive menu. You can also play backgammon, chess and other games. Daily from noon. 100 KSh. Kenya Cinema Plaza, Fifth Floor, Moi Avenue, Nairobi. Phone 222-532.
| Performing Arts | Top  |
For some traditional Kenyan entertainment, try to catch the Bomas of Kenya (they perform daily). Many tour companies will shuttle you the 6 mi/10 km out of town to enjoy their tribal dances, but you can also take a taxi. Bakulutu Africa, a group that specializes in African music and drumming, performs frequently at local venues, including the Kenya National Theatre (opposite the Norfolk Hotel). Sometimes they team up with dancers, percussionists and acrobats for breathtaking performances.
Classical, jazz and traditional music groups appear at the city's cultural centers nearly every week. Look especially for listings at the French Cultural Center, the British Council, the Institute of Italian Culture and the Goethe Institute. The All Saints Cathedral hosts many of the city's classical-music events arranged by the Nairobi Music Society, plus occasional chamber concerts by visiting artists who are funded by their embassies. The top hotels also bring in classical or jazz musicians.
The Nairobi City Players put on infrequent but usually very good performances with visiting directors and actors. Even better are the Phoenix Players, a first-rate semiprofessional company.
Presents a dozen plays each year in its intimate 120-seat auditorium. If there's a performance on while you're in Nairobi, it's worth seeing. They have in the past used HIV/AIDS awareness themes in their plays and musicals. Professional Centre, St. John's Gate, Parliament Road, Nairobi. Phone 213-967.
| Spectator Sports | Top |
Much of the city's sports scene is influenced by Kenya's past ties to Britain. You can watch polo matches at Jamhuri Park on most weekends or spend a Sunday afternoon betting on ponies at the Ngong Race Track (January-June only). During the summer months, there are frequent cricket matches at the Gymkhana, Premier Simba and Aga Khan grounds. Exciting league games on Saturday and Sunday draw big crowds. In 2003, Kenya surprised the world by reaching the semi-finals of the Cricket World Cup to become the No. 1 non-test cricket team in the world.
Rugby is also popular in certain circles, and Nairobi boasts several teams (although the skill level on the field isn't world class). Among the best are the Nondescripts, who play at the Parklands Sports Club March-September, and the Harlequins, whose field is on Ngong Road. In recent times, Kenya has garnered some respect in World Rugby Sevens by causing several upsets in international tournaments.
The sport that draws the most fans, however, is soccer—called football. Matches are played year-round at Nyayo National Stadium and at the Moi International Sports Centre. (Be aware that the local fans can get rowdy—sometimes riot police are called in.) The local papers have detailed listings of sporting events. Around Easter each year, the annual Safari Motor Rally starts and ends in Nairobi. There are also several relatively recent corporate-sponsored marathons where local talent can be seen.
Local crafts to look for include wood carvings of people and animals by local Kamba craftsmen, Kisii soapstone carvings, sisal baskets wound by Kikuyu and Kamba women, beadwork made by the Masai and other tribes, decorated gourds and musical instruments. Gemstones are another popular item to shop for: You'll find tanzanite (a blue stone from Tanzania), tsavorite (an emeraldlike stone) and rubies. Clothes, especially the colorful
kangas,
kikois and saris worn by women, are a good buy. If you're headed for less-developed countries, be aware that most of them ship their best crafts to Nairobi for sale and that you'll seldom see this level of quality again.
Do keep in mind that some taxi drivers and safari guides may encourage you to go to certain stores or may try to discourage you from going to those where they don't get a high commission. (Some stores pay drivers as much as 50% of the selling price.) If your driver starts making alternate recommendations, just be persistent in telling him the name of the shop you want to visit.
| Antique Stores | Top |
Antique furnishings from India and the U.K., as well as colonial furniture, statues, prints, instruments and chests. Monday-Friday 9 am-5 pm, Saturday 9 am-4 pm. Vision Plaza, Mombasa Road (on the way to Kenyatta Airport), Nairobi. Phone 556-743.
This store has the largest book selection in Nairobi. Monday-Friday 8 am-1 pm, 2-5:30 pm, Saturday 9 am-2 pm. Loans House, Moi Avenue, Nairobi. Phone 220-221.
This African bookstore is a must-visit spot for any book lover. Popularly known as Chand's, the store stocks many popular and contemporary Western titles. It also has an impressive collection of second-hand books of all genres, many unavailable anywhere else. Yahya Centre, Nairobi. Phone 271-4533.
Stocks a large selection of books about Kenya, coffee-table books, academic books, current paperbacks, maps and guidebooks. Helpful staff. Monday-Saturday 8 am-6 pm, Sunday 9 am-1 pm. Kenyatta Avenue (in the Stanley Hotel), Nairobi. Phone 316-808.
This bookshop in the City Centre is possibly the best source of seemingly out-of-date older African fiction. It also has a great list of Africana, both popular and academic. Mama Ngina Street, next to 20th-Century Cinema, Nairobi. Phone 223-515.
Lots of good guidebooks, coffee-table books and books about Kenya. Monday-Saturday 9 am-1 pm and 2-5 pm, Saturday 9 am-1 pm. Old Uchumi House, Waiyaki Way, Westlands, Nairobi. Phone 444-6406.
Displays and sells top-quality crafts from all of Africa, including furniture, jewelry, clothing and art. In fact, you may think you're in a museum—the merchandise is that good and is displayed that dramatically. The quality is reflected in the prices. The World Bank has praised this company on its success of promoting African art throughout the world. There are also branches at the Nairobi National Museum, the Karen Blixen Museum and at the Carnivore restaurant on Langata Road. As well as selling curios, the latter also features a bead museum that traces the history of African adornment for the past 12,000 years. Monday-Saturday 9 am-6 pm, Sunday 11 am-4 pm. Libra House, Mombasa Road (on the way to Kenyatta Airport), Nairobi. Phone 530-054. http://www.africanheritage.net.
Showcases contemporary African paintings and also presents temporary exhibits. This is a formal art gallery with spacious and well-lit exhibition space. Daily 9 am-6 pm. First Floor, Lonhro House, Standard Street, Nairobi. Phone 225-666. http://www.gallerywatatu.com.
The Rahimtulla Museum of Modern Art (RAMOMA) holds exhibitions of modern art, with both African and international artists represented. The artwork comes in a variety of media, and purchases benefit a charity for Kenya's sick and disabled children. Monday-Friday 9:30 am-4:30 pm, Saturday 9:30 am-1 pm. Rahimtulla Tower, Upper Hill Road, Nairobi. Phone 729-181.
Emphasizes paintings, along with some sculpture. Monday-Saturday 9 am-6 pm, Sunday 10 am-1 pm. Standard Street (near the Stanley Hotel), Nairobi. Phone 213-080.
An outstanding selection of crafts and curios such as drums, masks, wooden carvings, musical instruments, semiprecious stones and batiks. Fixed but competitive prices and knowledgeable staff. We found prices there that matched the curio markets without the need for haggling. Monday-Saturday 9 am-5:30 pm. York House, near Hilton Hotel, Moi Avenue, Nairobi. Phone 222-704 or 249-452.
Although there are markets in every neighborhood, this is the best. A major outlet for sisal baskets, wooden curios (including a veritable army of giraffes), cut flowers, and fresh fruits and vegetables. Daily 8 am-6 pm. Muindi Mbingu Street, Nairobi.
In addition to the more formal markets, also look out for the
jua kali traders at the side of the road.
Jua kali means "hot sun" in Swahili, and these informal traders do indeed stand in the hot sun all day selling their wares to passing pedestrians and motorists. There are a particularly dense crops on Ngong Road near the racecourse, on the road to Langata and in Westlands near Sarit Centre. They sell a variety of items such as lawnmowers, wrought-iron gates and a number of curios.
Primarily Masai women selling their crafts, which they spread out on blankets in the parking lot of this shopping mall. Be prepared to bargain, but the market is known for low rates. Look for beaded work, wood and soapstone sculptures, batik, masks and baskets. Every Friday morning. Limuru Road, Gigiri, Nairobi.
| Specialty Stores | Top |
Great assortment of African crafts and artwork and very nicely packaged so they make great gifts. Some of the items have come from charitable craft-making projects. Monday-Saturday 9:30 am-6 pm, Sunday 10 am-2 pm. Sarit Centre, Parklands Road, Westlands, Nairobi. Phone 449-595.
These are the same beads found at much higher prices at such places as Liberty's in London. Nice selection of ceramic jewelry and colorful pottery as well. Many tour companies make a stop there, and you can often see beads being made.
Kazuri means "small and beautiful" in Swahili. This center has provided work for many destitute women. Monday-Friday 8:30 am-5 pm, Saturday 8:30 am-1 pm, Sunday (only the shop open) 11 am-4:30 pm. Mbagathi Ridge Road, Karen, Nairobi. Phone 884-058 or 883-500.
A leading Kenyan fashion house for women's, men's and children's clothes, accessories and jewelry. The clothes are modern and well-made but use traditional Kenyan materials. Monday-Saturday 9 am-6 pm. On the corner of Peponi and Eldama Ravine roads, Westlands, Nairobi. Phone 740-254. http://www.kikoromeo.com.
A good-quality selection of items created by participants in self-help workshops and similar groups: wall hangings, carpets, clothing, home furnishings, jewelry and pottery. Monday-Saturday 9 am-6 pm. Viking House, Waiyaki Way, Westlands, Nairobi. Phone 440-882.
A retail outlet for the church-based Undugu society, which helps Nairobi's street children. Excellent selection of reasonably priced, high-quality crafts: baskets, jewelry, carved gourds, and soapstone and wood carvings. Money generated from the sale of these goods goes toward teaching the street children such skills as mechanics or carpentry. This project is well worth supporting. Monday-Friday 9 am-4:30 pm, Saturday 9 am-5 pm. Woodvale Grove, Westlands, Nairobi. Phone 535-985. http://www.undugukenya.org.
For lovers of leather, this upscale leather-goods shop is a must visit. Junction Mall, off Ngong Road, at Dagoretti Corner, Nairobi. Phone 386-4665.
To
Hell's Gate National Park. This is a full-day trip, approximately 50 mi/80 km from Nairobi, so you'll want to rent a car or go with a tour company. The area will give you a good feel for the immensity and variety of Kenya. The park is an attraction more for its scenery than for its wildlife, with dramatic cliffs and natural basaltic prisms. It's the only park that allows visitors to get out of their vehicles and walk. About 2 mi/3 km past the entrance to Hell's Gate is the Elsamere Conservation Centre on the shores of picturesque Lake Naivasha. This was the house of Joy Adamson (of
Born Free fame), which is now a museum. Films about her life are available for viewing; in the afternoon, delicious cream teas are served on the lawn next to the lake, where it is possible to spot hippos. Also, take the boat over to Crescent Island, where you can walk among giraffes, zebra, gazelles (including albino Grant's gazelles), wildebeest and the occasional hippo. (Be aware, however, that each year more people are killed by hippos than by all the other animals together.) There are plenty of birds, too.
To Lake Magadi and Olorgasailie Prehistoric Site. Full-day trip. Your best bet for this trip is to rent a car, but you can make arrangements with a tour company. To get to Lake Magadi (about 60 mi/100 km from Nairobi), take the Langata Road to the Magadi Road and turn left. The road passes beautiful scenery, volcanic hills and faults, and Masai tending their cattle. Lake Magadi is a shimmering pink-and-white soda lake, but it's a very hot area—take extra drinking water and a picnic lunch. The lake is long and skinny and has a pink tinge thanks to the high alkaline level of the water. Magadi is the Masai word for soda. The landscape is amazing, and there are some hot springs at the southern end of the lake. Birds you are likely to see there are flamingos and perhaps ibis and African spoonbills. Olorgasailie Prehistoric Site is 50 mi/80 km down the Magadi Road from Nairobi. It's one of the Leakey family excavation sites, and there's a small museum. Fossils of prehistoric animals and early stone tools have been uncovered there, believed to be more than 1 million years old. Visit it before or after seeing Lake Magadi.
To the Ngong Hills. Either rent a car or hire a car and driver for this half-day trip, and then head to Ngong town, which is 14 mi/22 km from Nairobi's city center. If you're in a group, it's safe to drive or walk to the summit of the hills and find the Finch-Hatton Memorial, an obelisk that marks the grave of Denys Finch-Hatton (lover of Karen Blixen). Drive along the base of the hills until you come to the Magadi Road. Then proceed south for a dramatic view of the Rift Valley. It's also possible to reach the easternmost summit by walking or driving (four-wheel drive required) up from where the road crosses the spur of the hills. This is also good bird-watching territory, and 190 species have been recorded in the area.
There are many reputable tour organizations in Nairobi. The telephone book lists more than 100 companies, and there are many more that book only from North America or Europe. All large hotels are associated with tour companies, and they can assist you in making bookings. Most companies offer city tours, excursions to Nairobi National Park and trips to the Karen area, including the Karen Blixen Museum, the Giraffe Centre and the Bomas of Kenya. Of course, many provide standard or personalized safari tours of Kenya and Tanzania for periods up to several weeks.
Some of the better-known of these include Abercrombie and Kent (phone 695-0002; http://www.abercrombiekent.com); Going Places (phone 444-2321; http://www.goingplaceskenya.com); Rhino Safaris (phone 272-0610 or 272-0611); Tour Africa Safaris (phone 272-9333 or 272-9394); and Express Travel (phone 273-4968; http://www.etg-safaris.com).
Offers half-day and full-day tours to Nairobi National Park and Animal Orphanage, Nakuru National Park, the Karen Blixen Museum and the Giraffe Centre. The company can also arrange bookings for a hotel and rental car, as well as flight and rail reservations. Pan Africa House, Standard Street, Nairobi. Phone 221-992 or 221-994. http://www.bunson.co.ke.
Offers safari-style tours and a variety of day trips, including a two-hour city tour and half-day trips to Nairobi National Park, the Giraffe Centre and the Davis Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage. ABC Place, First Floor (above the Continental Supermarket), Nairobi. Phone 444-151. http://www.letsgosafari.com.