Mauritania Things to See & Do Guide

Day 1—Arrive Nouadhibou.

Day 2—Take an excursion into the desert. Overnight Nouadhibou.

Day 3—Fly to Nouakchott. Explore the city.

Day 4—Day trip to Rosso. Overnight Nouakchott.

Day 5—Depart Mauritania.

An ideal itinerary would include a weeklong overland trip into the desert, though you should allow two weeks to cover possible delays. Even if you're not going into the desert, allow plenty of extra time (at least several days) to account for logistical problems. Remember that everything is subject to revision or cancellation.

This important coastal park is a fascinating destination for bird-watchers-it's a breeding ground for both European and African birds. While the nearest town is Nouadhibou, visitor permits must be obtained in Nouakchott-no one is allowed to visit without a guide. And, for the protection of hatchlings, visitors are not allowed near the birds during mating seasons (April-July and October-January). 95 mi/155 km north of Nouakchott.

Atar (pop. 17,000), in the Sahara, is probably the easiest desert town to visit-regularly scheduled flights land there and the road is good. We suggest flying to the city and returning to Nouakchott overland (hire a car and driver). The market makes for interesting shopping-prices (especially for food) are lower than in nearby Chinguetti. Atar is close to Amojjar Pass, a beautiful canyon of brown and pink sandstone. The most surprising thing about the canyon is that it is there at all-created by water erosion, the gorge lies in the middle of one of the driest regions we've ever seen. Most visitors find two nights adequate. 250 mi/400 km northeast of Nouakchott.

This settlement in the middle of the Sahara is a classic North African desert city-sand dunes surround the settlement, and the central mosque is said to be more than 1,000 years old. The main attraction of Chinguetti is its atmosphere. Considered the seventh holy city of Islam, Chinguetti has a number of 13th-century houses and mosques. If you're driving to Chinguetti from Atar, the nearest large city, look for rock formations decorated with prehistoric paintings. 275 mi/445 km northeast of Nouakchott.

The country's third-largest city (pop. 22,000), Kaedi lies in the southern region along the Senegal River. It's a colorful market town, well worth a two-night stay. The surrounding verdant scenery is a nice change from the desert. 200 mi/320 km southeast of Nouakchott.

This desert town of 4,500 is on the Transmauritanienne Highway (the Road of Hope), in south-central Mauritania. Although it's a crossroads for travelers and an important trading center, Kiffa has no hotel. Nearby is an interesting canyon-to see it, you'll need an all-terrain vehicle. 300 mi/485 km southeast of Nouakchott.

The drive to Nema through the desolate Sahara Desert seems to last an eternity, but the quick Air Mauritanie flight is almost always overbooked. Still, we spent two nights in Nema and thoroughly enjoyed the isolation and meeting the local nomads. This trip is not recommended for everyone, however. We drove both ways, but would never do it again-it's much too tedious. There is no hotel (camping is possible), but hardy travelers will find a market, a hospital and a bank. 570 mi/915 km southeast of Nouakchott.

This port city of 70,000 on the edge of the Sahara has a noticeable Moorish influence-leavened with a bit of the brand-spanking-new. The modern airport, complete with Muzak, represents "progress." Once outside, however, the paved streets are covered with sand and lead to extremely basic hotels. On the outskirts of town, expansive white-sand beaches and sparkling blue waters beckon swimmers and water-skiers.

Located on the Cap Blanc Peninsula, Nouadhibou is also the jumping-off point for trips into the Sahara. In the desert, you'll see Bedouin tribespeople and desert animals. Another popular excursion is along the Baie du Levrier to Cap Timiris (a journey of several days by motorboat). Deep-sea anglers will be in heaven-the Baie boasts one of the largest fish populations in the world. The truly adventurous might consider camping at the Arguin Bank National Park. For most visitors, two nights in Nouadhibou will be about right. 200 mi/320 km northwest of Nouakchott.

Mauritania's capital city (pop. 800,000) offers an interesting view of West Africa and a wide variety of hotel accommodations. We suggest a one-day stay to take in the markets, sandy streets and colorful people. Two mosques are open to tourists: the Grande Mosque and the Friday Mosque. Both are relatively new, one having been donated by Morocco and the other by Saudi Arabia. The National Carpet Office in the Ksar settlement district is quite fascinating-you can watch members of the women's rug cooperative rapidly hand-knot carpets. Another interesting sight is the daily return of the fishing fleet at the Port de Peche. The best time to see them unloading the day's catch is 3-5 pm. Tanit Beach to the north is excellent for swimming or camping (but beware of muggers on the beaches, especially on the southern side of the city-violent incidents have occurred there in the past). If time permits, plan a day trip to Rosso.

Formerly a major caravan stop, Ouadane is very isolated today. Camels are still a part of life in this desert town-the dromedaries can be rented for travel around town or to other cities (we opted for a quick spin around Ouadane). While in town, visit the Ksar el Klali (an old fort) and stroll around the oasis. The town, in the north of the country, can be reached by road from the towns of Atar and Chinguetti. 330 mi/530 km northeast of Nouakchott.

Although there's little to do in Rosso (pop. 18,000), the drive from Nouakchott is pleasant, passing small villages, interesting people and sand-colored rock buildings. Rosso lies on the Senegal River, in the fertile southern region where the country's crops are grown. It's best seen as a day trip from Nouakchott.

Note: Because of its border location, Rosso has one of the largest black markets in the country. Be sure to steer clear of illegal dealings-the risks far outweigh any gains. 100 mi/160 km south of Nouakchott.