Eritrea Things to See & Do Guide

Day 1—Arrive in Asmara.

Day 2—Excursion to Dahlak Islands (stay overnight if you can find lodging).

Day 3—Massawa.

Day 4—Day trip to Qohaito.

Day 5—Return to Asmara and depart Eritrea.

Travelers on an extended or return trip should go to Keren or Dankalia. Try to visit villages in both the highlands and the lowlands: The cultures and the landscapes are strikingly different.

Asmara (pop. 514,000) was only a string of small villages before the Italians arrived in 1897 and made it the colony's capital. When they left in 1941, the city had been transformed into a little piece of Italy-from the wide palm-lined avenues sprinkled with cafes to the lines of bikes zipping along the streets. Fortunately, Asmara was spared the war damage that destroyed much of Massawa, the country's other major historic city.

Asmara offers most of the amenities of any large city in developed countries. It's beautiful, safe and clean. Buildings, including hotels, are being renovated, and shops are full of Western goods. Visit the lively central market and the national museum. For a glimpse of the region's vibrant version of Christianity, stops by the towering Catholic cathedral (you can climb the bell tower) and Inda Mariam, the city's main Eritrean Orthodox church. There is also an interesting mosque, Khulasa El Rashidin.

Asmara sponsors many festivals throughout the year, including Festival Eritrea (late August-early September), during which the country's nine ethnic groups put on dances and shows. It's a great way to compare the dress and cultures of the various groups. Eritrean Independence Day (24 May) inspires huge parades and all-night partying in the streets.

And even when there's no special event going on, the evening stroll feels festive as Asmarinos get dressed up and walk along Liberation Avenue in a big, informal social gathering. It's a great time to do some people-watching, especially on Sunday when everyone wears their fanciest clothes.

Asmara has a handful of discos that stay open until the wee morning hours on Friday and Saturday, with dancing, drinking and socializing. There are many restaurants scattered around the city, serving both Eritrean and Italian dishes. (Ask around to find the better ones.) For a change of pace, Asmara also has an old Italian-built bowling alley-the pins are still set by hand.

The best way to see the countryside outside Asmara is to drive to Massawa: This scenic road corkscrews from Asmara's high plateau through cool, green mountains and valleys, finally reaching the parched hills of the Red Sea coast. The adventurous can make this trip by bicycle: Bike shops in Asmara will rent bicycles, but make sure the brakes are in good condition. The roads are wide and paved, and there are plenty of towns along the way where you can get food and water. Be careful of the camels trotting across the road when you get to sea level. 75 mi/120 km southwest of Massawa.

On the Red Sea, near the border with Djibouti, Assab is the nation's largest port (though it sits idle until relations with Ethiopia normalize) and site of its only oil refinery. It's also a center for fishing and various watersports. The town itself isn't worth a visit, but the volcanic scenery of the Dankalia region, which you pass through on the way there, is beautiful and otherworldly enough to warrant the journey. This is a rough and remote trip best done with a local driver. 300 mi/480 km southeast of Asmara.

These coral islands in the Red Sea, just offshore from Massawa, are an incredible treat. There are ancient Semitic ruins, excellent diving and snorkeling, and empty beaches. Less than a dozen of the 200 islands are inhabited; the largest is Dahlak-Kebir, which currently has the islands' only hotel. Boat tours to the islands, often on traditional fishing vessels called sambuchi, are available from Massawa, but should be arranged in advance. Your guide will arrange all the necessary paperwork. The best islands for diving are Shumma, Nora and Isratu; snorkelers prefer Madote and Dissei. Expect to see healthy reefs as well as tropical fish, lobsters, manta rays, dolphins, several types of sea turtles and dugongs (sea cows). Some bays are bioluminescent. 30 mi/50 km east of Massawa.

Despite being the third-largest city in Eritrea, Keren has a relaxed, small-town feel and, like Asmara, it has some fantastic Italian architecture, but the principal attraction is the bustling markets. Silver and gold jewelry is cheaper there than in Asmara, though the selection is not as good. Wood carried into town on camels is sold in a dry riverbed, and a large market for livestock, most notably camels, is held every Monday. Though Keren is easily reached via a well-maintained highway and has some good quality hotels, the city sees few foreign visitors. Keren lies at a strategic junction and was hotly contested during World War II and later during the Eritrean fight for independence-look for abandoned tanks along the highway as you drive there. 55 mi/90 km northwest of Asmara.

If Asmara, with its wide boulevards and colonial buildings, reflects Eritrea's Italian connection, Massawa, full of narrow streets and crumbling Ottoman-style buildings, shows off the country's Arab influence. Though the city was heavily damaged during the recent wars, many of its historic coral-block buildings are being restored. The city is divided into three sections: the island of Massawa (old town and port), the island of Taulud (palace and best hotels) and the mainland (airport, main market and most homes). The principal pastimes in this port city are watersports, deep-sea fishing and lingering in the local bars and restaurants. There is an outdoor movie theater in town that shows fairly new foreign films (including some from the U.S.). Massawa also has a few lively all-night discos.

Just to the north of town are the pristine white sands of Gergussum Beach. There are a few hotels along the beach, and you can rent chairs for lounging. Camel rides are available for a small fee. 75 mi/120 km northeast of Asmara.

South of Asmara, on the road to Ethiopia, are the ruins of Qohaito, an Axumite city dating from the fith century BC. Though still largely unexcavated, this is Eritrea's most impressive archaeological site, and there is hope that it may someday reveal ruins to rival those in Ethiopia. A guide can show you nearby rock paintings dating to 5,000 BC. 75 mi/120 km southeast of Asmara.