Destination Guidebook for Durban, South Africa
|
|
| |
Durban, a city of more than 2 million, bills itself as the "Playground of the Zulu Kingdom." Your understanding of the Zulu people, both past and present, will be broadened by a visit. Shaka Zulu, the founder of the Zulu nation, remains a powerful symbolic figure there, and you might catch a glimpse of the present-day Zulu king, Goodwill Zwelithini. He occasionally attends meetings at (where else?) the Royal Hotel. Built in 1845 and granted royal appointment in 1860 by Queen Victoria's second son, Prince Alfred, the Royal can count among its guests Cecil John Rhodes, Mark Twain, Margaret Thatcher and Nelson Mandela.
If you're interested in learning about the country's apartheid era, stop in the Kwa-Muhle Museum. Learn about the enforced carrying of passes by all African men, and from 1952, African women older than 16.
Some of Durban's incredible diversity can also be sampled at the Jumah Mosque (largest in the Southern Hemisphere) and Hindu temples. And strolling along the Golden Mile will give you even more insight into the cultural hodgepodge that makes up this part of South Africa. Located 15 minutes north of Durban in Umhlanga, this casino complex includes the iZulu Theater, specialty restaurants and bars, a luxury hotel and Mangwanani Spa. Take the N2 or M4 highway north and get off at the Sibaya off-ramp. Daily 24 hours. Phone 580-5000. The casino boasts 1,250 slot machines, 50 gaming tables, eight cinemas, a food court, hotel and entertainment areas. Suncoast Boulevard (Marine Parade), Durban. Phone 328-3000. http://www.suncoastcasino.co.za. | Historic Sites | Top  |
Mohandas Gandhi worked as a lawyer in Durban for more than 20 years. A bust of him is right inside the door leading to the Tourist Junction. 160 Pine St., Durban. Completed in 1910, this structure is an example of Edwardian neo-Baroque architecture, and with its distinctive dome, resembles the Belfast City Hall. Inside, you'll find polished wooden floors, intricate stained glass, wrought-iron balustrades, marble pillars and ornate arches. On the second floor of the building is the Durban Art Gallery, the setting for international and South African art collections. Guided tours can be arranged. The Natural Science Museum is also housed in the building. West Street, Durban. Phone 311-111. The Portuguese community installed the clock in 1897 to commemorate the 400th anniversary of the first sight of Durban by the famous Portuguese explorer, Vasco de Gama, in 1497. Take a close look at the dragons, owls and the many other Victorian accessories that adorn the clock. You'll find the clock on the bayside of the Victoria Embankment at a midpoint between Jonsson and Mona roads. On Gardiner Street is the equestrian statue of Dick King, commemorating his 600-mi/966-km ride to Grahamstown in 1842 to advise the British that Durban was under siege. King Street, Kings Hall, Kings Mansion, Kingsway, Kingsmead Stadium, Kingsborough and King's Ford are named after him. At the western end of the Durban bay are three enormous silos that hold as much as 500,000 tons of refined sugar—you can't miss them. Sugar from these silos is loaded onto cargo ships and transported from Durban's harbor to destinations all over the world. No visitor to the city should miss the opportunity to take a guided tour of the terminal—sugar is to Durban what gold is to Johannesburg. Open Monday-Friday 8:30 am-4:30 pm. Tours at the following times: 8:30-9:45 am, 10-11:15 am, 11:30 am-12:45 pm and 2-3:15 pm. 57 Maydon Road, Durban. Phone 301-0331. The colorful rickshaws that you see along the beachfront are almost a landmark in and of themselves. The role of the rickshaw-puller in Durban has changed with time, from that of providing everyday transport to tourist attraction. Sugar magnate Sir Walter Campbell brought them to the area in 1893. He needed a way to transport his wife around. By 1904, as many as 2,000 rickshaw-pullers operated in Durban, ferrying workers and shoppers with their purchases. However, between 1962 and 1977, rickshaws gradually began to disappear. Today, less than two dozen operate along the beachfront and none in the city. Nevertheless, a short jaunt in one of these man-drawn carriages delights children and adults alike. Located outside City Hall, The Cenotaph is a 36-ft/11-m obelisk that's dedicated to fallen World War I soldiers. Made of granite with ceramic decorations of angels carrying the spirit of a fallen warrior, the warrior's tomb and a sarcophagus bearing the name of the dead are on the top step below the obelisk. The Royal is a quintessential landmark in Durban. It has undergone a number of transformations since it opened in 1842. The first Royal was made of wattle and daub, and the walls were strengthened with stones. In 1848, Prince Alfred, the second son of Queen Victoria, stayed in the hotel. After his visit, the name changed to the Royal Hotel. The Royal was rebuilt in 1870, then again in 1880, and further changes were made in 1956. Cecil Rhodes, Mark Twain, Paul Kruger, Bobby and Edward Kennedy, and the Duke and Duchess of Cornwall and York are among the prominent guests who have stayed there. 267 Smith St., Durban. Phone 689-2221. http://www.theroyal.co.za. This 19th-century farmhouse, a national monument, contains an interesting collection of photographs, documents and artifacts relating to 1848 German settlers. Monday-Friday 8 am-1 pm and 2-5 pm. 16 Queens Ave., off Kings Avenue, Westville. Phone 203-7107. The Campbell Collections comprise the Killie Campbell Africana Library, Mashu Museum of Ethnology, William Campbell Furniture and Art Collection and the Jo Thorpe Collection of African Art. The museum is a must-see if you want to understand the English influence in Durban. Anthropologist Dr. Margaret Roach Campbell created one of South Africa's finest private libraries of Africana. The daughter of sugar baron Sir Marshall Campbell, she also collected superb examples of African culture, including musical instruments, beadwork, pottery, weapons and costumes. A set of 250 paintings of tribal dress by local artist Barbara Tyrell completes the Mashu Museum of Ethnology. Tuesday and Thursday 8 am-1 pm. Guided tours by appointment. 229 Marriott Road (at corner of Marriott and Essenwood roads, Berea), Durban. Phone 207-3711. Documents the history of the Indian community. Includes information about indentured Indians and Gandhi in South Africa and has displays of cultural artifacts, paintings, culinary art, traditional clothing and jewelry. The staff is very helpful, and the center is the occasional venue for lectures and concerts featuring traditional Indian music. Open Monday-Friday 7:30 am-4 pm. Groups of 10 or more should call in advance. Corner of Epsom Road and Derby Street, Durban. Phone 309-7559. If you want to know what life was like for Africans under apartheid, visit KwaMuhle. This local landmark, built in 1929, was headquarters of the notorious Native Administration Department, the place where white policy-makers controlled the lives of the African population in the city. The name, KwaMuhle (Zulu for "place of the good one"), was given to the first manager of the department, who reputedly rescued and repatriated 7,000 Zulu men who would have been stranded in South Africa's Transvaal at the outbreak of the Anglo-Boer War. Despite its name, cruel and inhumane treatment was meted out to hundreds of African men who went to the department seeking permits to work in the city. The museum features permanent and temporary exhibits. It's a must-see for any visitor, and don't be put off by its location, which is across the street from a huge parking lot where hundreds of taxi-vans gather to pick up city workers and shuttle them to various neighborhoods. Monday-Saturday 8:30 am-4 pm. Free. There's a gift shop on-site, and it features a wonderful selection of area handicrafts, including a boxed Nativity scene with Joseph, Mary and the baby Jesus outfitted in Zulu beads and sackcloth. 130 Ordnance Road, Durban. Phone 300-6156. Vast arrays of displays are featured, including a life-size reconstruction of Tyrannosaurus rex, a reconstructed dodo and the mummy of Peten-Amen, who lived in Egypt some 2,300 years ago. Focus is mainly on animals, birds and reptiles. Educational programs and films are presented from time to time. Open Monday-Saturday 8:30 am-4 pm, Sunday and public holidays 11 am-4 pm. First Floor, Durban City Hall, Smith Street, Durban. Phone 311-2256. This board is supposedly the only one of its kind in the world. At its headquarters in Umhlanga, visitors can watch a video presentation and shark dissection—hold your nose if you're sensitive to smells. For the more adventurous, there are early-morning trips out to sea in a Sharks Board ski-boat to observe firsthand how staff go about their daily servicing of nets off Durban's Golden Mile. Although the nets cover less than 10% of KwaZulu-Natal's coastline, some 1,200 sharks are caught in them every year. All live sharks are tagged and released. Shark dissections: Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday at 9 am and 2 pm, Sunday at 2 pm. Palmiet Nature Reserve is a 15-minute drive from the Durban city center in the suburb of Westville. This reserve is 197 acres/80 hectares of long grass, lush vegetation, majestic cliffs and a cascading waterfall, with a meandering river snaking its way through ravines and gorges. Named after the palmiet plant, the reserve has 7 mi/11 km of hiking trails, some 140 bird species and 180 types of plants. Open daily 6 am-6 pm. Some trails are free, but others are R4 adults, R2 children. Phone 203-7065. | Neighborhoods & Districts | Top |
Grey Street is the Indian central business district, dominated by Indian businessmen (mainly Muslim) since 1872. The area was developed during the reign of Queen Victoria, and many streets are named after her descendants. This is where you'll find spicy local food, as well as saris and other textiles. But don't go alone. It's best to book the Oriental Walking tour at the Tourist Junction through Durban Africa. 160 Pine St., Durban. Phone 304-4934. | Parks & Gardens | Top |
Durban has more than 50 nature reserves, parks and specialized gardens. They are maintained by the city's Parks Department, which has 11,119 acres/4,500 hectares of parkland and undeveloped open space that it maintains.
One of South Africa's most beautiful parks, the Botanic Gardens is notable for its tall trees, a lake and a vast collection of gardens, including the Ernest Thorpe Orchid House, Herb Garden, Sunken Garden and Garden for the Blind. Founded in 1849, the gardens are located in a lush 50-acre/20-hectare park at the foot of the Berea and minutes from the city center. An information center and tea garden are on-site. The KwaZulu Natal Philharmonic Orchestra performs at the lake on various Sundays throughout the year. Gardens open 16 April-15 September 7:30 am-5:15 pm, 16 September-15 April 7:30 am-5:45 pm. Information center open daily 9 am-4:30 pm; Orchid House 9:30 am-5 pm. A tour leaves the information center on the last Sunday of every month at 9:30 am. Theme tours such as birds and plants of the Bible can be prebooked through the information center. Free. 70 St. Thomas Road, Durban. Phone 201-1301. This pleasant garden features cobbled walkways, lanterns, rustic bridges, reed picnic huts, a playground, and Japanese ponds and structures. The garden was declared a Sri Chinmoy Peace Garden in 1996. There is also an abundance of birdlife there. A lot of families with children enjoy this park, and it's also a favorite venue for church picnics and outings. Open daily. Free. Phone 563-1333. Originally an ostrich farm, Mitchell Park is adjacent to Jameson Park, which was once a pineapple plantation. Jameson Park is known for its hundreds of beautiful roses, and Mitchell is a favorite place of children who like to run and jump on the spacious lawn, as well as visit with exotic birds, tropical fish, small buck, tortoises, monkeys and other animals. The Blue Zoo restaurant is also located at Mitchell Park. Snacks, breakfast and teas, lunch and dinner are served in the garden. Open daily. 10 Ferndale Road, Morningside (at the corner of Innes and Nimmo roads), Durban. Phone 303-2275. | Religious Sites | Top |
The Buddhist Retreat Center is actually in Ixopo, which is south of Durban. However, you will find the rolling hills of Ixopo so breathtaking and intoxicating that you won't mind the drive to get there. Located on a picturesque estate, the Buddhist Retreat Centre is where many Durbanites head for a quiet retreat. The center offers unstructured self-retreats and arranged retreats. Retreats range R160-R865. Day visits are also available but must be organized in advance. Lunch is available at a charge of R35 weekdays, R40 Saturday and Sunday.
From Durban, take Exit 61 (Umlaas Road/R56 off-ramp) from the N3 and follow the R56 signs toward Richmond/Ixopo. 3 mi/5 km before Ixopo turn right onto D64. After 4 mi/7 km you will find the Buddhist Retreat Centre entrance sign on your right. Phone 39-834-1863.
Adjacent to the Victoria Street Market, the cathedral was at the center of political activity in the mid-1980s and became known for the role it played in the struggle against apartheid. Today, you'll find that the sanctuary offers a quiet place to retreat from Durban's frenzied central business district. Built in 1902 in French provincial and neo-Gothic style, the cathedral draws locals and tourists of every race, creed, class and religion to its weekday services. The stations of the cross that line the walls inside are a gift from the Empress Eugenie as a memorial to her son, Louis Napolean, who was killed in the Zulu War of 1879. They are a replica of the stations found in Sacre Coure de Montmarte in Paris and are carved out of marble from Carrera in Italy. Daily 6 am-6 pm. Corner of Cathedral Road and Queen Street, Durban. Phone 306-3595. This mosque, built in 1927, is the largest mosque in the Southern Hemisphere. The architectural style is an interesting combination of Islamic and colonial. It has colonnaded verandas, a gold-domed minaret, and many turrets that dominate the whole street, lending it an atmosphere of the East. Anyone may enter as long as you remove your shoes and leave them at the entrance. Men should not wear shorts and women should wear long skirts or pants. The narrow entrance can be found on Queen Street. Guided tours are available with the Islamic Propagation Centre at the mosque. Corner of Grey and Queen streets, Durban. Phone 306-0026. The story of Marianhill goes something like this: In 1879, an Austrian abbot renowned as a builder of trappist monasteries stood before a group of abbots in France and said, "If no one else will go, I will." Three years later, Abbot Francis Pfanner established the beautiful Marianhill Monastery, which was constructed in a Romanesque Revival style. Today, the monastery houses the Jabulani Self-help Centre, which helps develop surrounding communities. There is also an art gallery on-site that displays the work of local artists. It is located in Pinetown, which is about 15 mi/24 km from Durban. Phone 700-2704 or 700-4288. The three-domed Temple of Understanding is one of the most-visited tourist attractions in Durban. Located south of the city center in an Indian area known as Chatsworth, this Hare Krishna temple is capped with large domes of white and gold and enveloped by gold-dust-coated windows. Numerous 10-ft-/3-m-high pictures depict the life of Krishna, a Hindu deity. Cooks at its Hare Krishna Food for Life kitchen serve more than 1,000 meals a day to the poor and destitute in the city. Chatsworth is a maze, and driving yourself there is not recommended. It's better to visit the temple with someone who knows how to get around the area, or go on an organized tour. Open daily 10 am-8:30 pm. If you're interested in a vegetarian meal, the restaurant is open 10:30 am-8:30 pm. 50 Bhaktivedanta Swami Circle, Unit 5, Chatsworth, Durban. Phone 403-3328. | Amusement Parks | Top |
Located in the Gateway Theatre of Shopping in Umhlanga, north of Durban, this place will keep your children occupied for hours. There's 10-pin bowling, a games arcade and rooftop funfair. Open daily 9 am till late. Phone 566-1897. Beachfront amusement park opposite the Edward Hotel. A cable car provides a bird's-eye view of the beachfront. Phone 332-9776. http://www.funpark.co.za. An outdoor minigolf course is located just south of the Umgeni River, near the beachfront, in an area known as the Blue Lagoon. The Blue Lagoon is a favorite spot of Indian families. Visitors there will not only find a place to golf, but a smorgasbord of Indian dishes is available, many of which are sold right out the back of someone's van or bakkie (the local term for pickup truck). Phone 303-1633. There's also an indoor, air-conditioned 36-hole course at 100 Brickhill Road, Durban. Phone 332-9851. Located in the Gateway Theatre of Shopping in Umhlanga, the ScienCentre is the perfect place for children to use all their senses, especially all at once. This place is well-suited for toddlers and children up to about age 6 or 7. Little ones can busy themselves, for example, using foam bricks and other construction equipment to build a house that at least looks sturdy enough to keep the Big Bad Wolf out. This marine theme park on the beachfront is home to Durban's Sea World, the fifth-largest marine theme park in the world. It exhibits 12,000 animals, predominantly from the western Indian Ocean, with the largest collection of sharks in the Southern Hemisphere. It boasts an excellent dolphinarium, with shows daily featuring dolphins, penguins and seals. Other marine life that includes sharks, stingrays and turtles can be seen in the adjoining aquarium. 1 Bell St., Durban. Phone 328-8000. | TV & Film Studios | Top |
The Durban Film Office aims to put the city on the map as a film mecca, showcasing the area's diverse coastal and mountain regions. Durban's own Anant Singh, the producer of Sarafina!, which starred actress Whoopi Goldberg, is building a R40 million studio complex on the beachfront at the site of Natal Command. 26th Floor, Old Mutual Centre, 303 West St., Durban. Phone 336-2680. http://www.durbanfilmoffice.com. | Zoos & Wildlife | Top |
Reptile demonstrations and talks are given daily during the holiday season, with an emphasis on the habitats of indigenous snakes. Cages house a variety of snakes, including the indigenous lurking boomslang (treesnake), the spitting cobra and a Burmese python. Gritty, but an interesting place. Open 9 am-5 pm in season and 9 am-4:30 pm out of season. Snell Parade, 240A Lower Marine Parade, Durban. Phone 156-9608. If your time is short in Durban and you really want to see some wildlife, consider a trip to Tala, a private wildlife conservancy whose residents include buffalo, giraffe, zebra, kudu, rhino, hippo and birds of all persuasions. Visitors have the option of taking a game drive, viewing animals astride a horse, or walking with an experienced guide and tracker. There's lodging at Tala, as well as a restaurant that has become a favorite destination for Durbanites in search of a hearty and delectable Sunday brunch. Located 45 minutes from Durban. Take the N3 to Pietermaritzburg, exiting at the Campertown/Umbumbulu turnoff. Follow the signs, Durban. Phone 781-8000. This bird park houses some of the world's rarest birds, such as macaws, giant Asian hornbills and many species of indigenous South African birds. Be careful where you step—bird droppings are practically everywhere. Refreshments are available for purchase under a thatched rondavel (Zulu hut) located near the entrance. Open daily 9 am-5 pm. Free-flight bird shows Tuesday-Sunday at 11 am and 2 pm. 490 Riverside Road, Durban. Phone 579-4600. | Other Options | Top |
Minitown is a knee-high replica of Durban and its most notable buildings and includes working models of ships in the harbor, rail and airport facilities. The replicas are built to scale of just 1/25 that of the real world. As night falls on Minitown, the city lights cast twinkling reflections on the lake and the harbor, transforming Minitown into a fantasyland. Although Minitown dates back more than 30 years, most visitors are not aware that Minitown is a charitable organization that raises funds for the Quadriplegic Association. It is also committed to creating job opportunities for disabled people. Open daily 9:30 am-4-30 pm. 114 Snell Parade, North Beach, Durban. Phone 337-7892. Durban has more than 62 mi/100 km of coastline and 320 days of sunshine on average, so it's not surprising that outdoor recreational activities, particularly watersports, dominate. Conditions are excellent for paragliding, wave-skiing, kite-boarding, surfing, body-boarding, fishing, canoeing, snorkeling and scuba diving, and sailing.
Contact the Ocean Sailing Academy (phone 301-5726) and the Durban Board Sailing Association (phone 337-4069) for information about sailing and windsurfing. Or, if you're interested in learning how to surf, the Surf and Adventure Centre on uShaka Marine World Beach is set up to work with beginners (phone 082-902-5672). But for those who want to enjoy a slower pace, consider exploring the Umgeni River by canoe (phone 201-1303).
Also, about 30 minutes south of Durban, in Umkomaas, is the spectacular Aliwal Shoal Reef, which has been consistently rated as one of the world's top 10 dive sites. There, you'll find corals and sponges, dolphins, stingrays, ragged-tooth sharks and turtles.
Named as such because of its location in front of the Natal Command Army base. This beach is near the mouth of the Mgeni River, far north of central Durban's beachfront. Durban is great surfing country, and it is not uncommon to see 60 or more surfers at one time at the Bay of Plenty. This beach is also a favorite location for bodyboarding and swimming, and it's also known for its lawns, sunken gardens and the Amphimarket Flea Market on Sundays. It is home to the world-famous Mr. Price Pro (formerly known as the Gunston 500) surfing competition, and spectators pour onto the beachfront by the thousands in July to witness this annual competition. Cave Rock has been described by surfers as the best wave spot on the Durban beachfront, with swells 10-15 ft/3-7 m high. Golden Mile, Durban. Good waves, lots of restaurants and hawkers selling everything from beadwork to original paintings. Golden Mile, Durban. | Bird Watching | Top |
Of the roughly 900 bird species to be found in South Africa, more than 600 are found in the KwaZulu-Natal region. Some of the particularly rare species include the mangrove kingfisher, Palmnut vulture and purple-crested lourie. Durban has some of the richest coastal waters in the world for deep-sea, shore or pier fishing. Sharks, blacktail, barracuda and shad are just some of the types of saltwater fish to pit yourself against. For the freshwater angler, venturing a bit farther inland offers countless opportunities for amazing catches. Fishing is a protected activity and permits are required for both inland and sea fishing.
Once a year, around July, countless millions of sardines migrate north in gigantic shoals, followed by a frenzy of game fish, dolphins, sharks, sea birds and excited anglers, plus hundreds of Indian "aunties" who wade into the water, using the hems of their saris to haul the bountiful harvest.
If your heart is set on deep-sea fishing in the warm waters of the Indian Ocean, contact Casea Charters. Casea offers a range of fishing excursions, including trips that last from two to seven hours, and children age 5 and older are welcome. It costs about US$40 per person to charter a boat for two hours, and expect to catch barracuda, wahoo, kingfish and king mackerel, depending on the time of year. The maximum number of anglers per boat is five. Casea is located 15 minutes north of Durban in Umhlanga. Phone 561-7381. http://www.caseacharters.co.za. This ice-skating venue, which opened in 1955, is located less than a mile/kilometer from the Indian Ocean. During KwaZulu-Natal school holidays the rink is open daily 10 am-10 pm (Saturday and Sunday till 10:30 pm); open during the school term Wednesday-Sunday; and skate sessions are 10 am and 12:15, 2:30, 5, 7 and 7:30 pm. Skate sessions last two hours and cost R20 per person. 81 Sol Harris Crescent, North Beach, Durban. Phone 332-4597 or 368-3022. | Scuba & Snorkeling | Top |
Guided dives to famous wrecks and reefs, and one-hour trips to see dolphins, whales, sharks, turtles and marine birds are offered by Dive Nautique. Located on Umhlhanga Rocks, north of Durban, the operator's launches take place from Grannies Pool in Umhlanga. Prices vary. http://www.divenautique.co.za. Durban has a fair number of bars and pubs, dance clubs and music venues, particularly along the Golden Mile and in the harbor area. However, exercise caution: Some places are nothing more than seedy dives, particularly in the Point Road area. For more upmarket nightspots that feature food, live music and dancing, head for Florida Road in the Morningside area of the city, or to the BAT Centre at the Durban harbor. In recent years, Florida Road has become a focal point in the city for restaurants, small theaters, boutiques, galleries and nightclubs offering live jazz, rock and other musical forms. With continuing safety concerns about crime along the beachfront, the Morningside area seems to have emerged as a mecca for locals and visitors who want to hang out. | Bars, Taverns & Pubs | Top |
Cafe bar downstairs and restaurants and cigar lounge upstairs. A favorite nightspot for those who want late-night cocktails and to listen to DJs spin. Open Monday-Friday 11 am-late, Saturday and Sunday for brunch, lunch and dinner. Most major credit cards. 18 Windermere Road, Greyville, Durban. Phone 309-6019. | Comedy Clubs | Top |
The Comedy Express hosts local comedians every Friday night. Located in the Krakatoa Bar at Sibaya Casino (take the N2 or M4 highway north and get off at the Sibaya offramp), Durban. Phone 580-5000. What could be better than sitting on the deck of the BAT Centre, listening to live jazz as the sun goes down? It's free and happens every Friday 6-10 pm and Sunday 3-5 pm. Phone 332-0451. DJs spin funk, house, R&B and rock 'n' roll at this club, which will not let you in the door unless you're 25 or older. Doors open at 8 pm. No cover. Suncoast Boulevard (Marine Parade), Durban. Phone 368-6535. For reggae sounds and an irie vibe, check out Cool Runnings. This is a place where you'll find a lot of backpackers and riffraff, too, so be careful. Milne Steet (off Brickhill Road, near the beachfront), Durban. Goth, darkwave, post-punk and death-rock music your thing? Then this is the nightclub for you. Open Saturday night. There is a cover charge. 13 Davenport Road (Suncoast Casino), Durban. Phone 508-1808. Opened in 1981, the Rainbow Restaurant & Jazz Club is part of Durban's cultural heritage, although it's actually located in the nearby city of Pinetown. The Rainbow was the first restaurant to cater to the African population in a so-called white area during the early 1980s. It became a place where whites and blacks could get together and enjoy themselves. Today, it showcases emerging talents as well as music icons. 23 Stanfield Lane, Pinetown. Phone 702-9161. Wonder where the rich and beautiful people go in Durban? It's Tilt, a very popular nightclub with a VIP area. DJs play funk, hip-hop and house music on Friday and Saturday nights. Walnut Street (opposite the International Convention Centre), Durban. Phone 306-9356. For African ambience and sophistication, Zulu Jazz Lounge is the place to go. New artists as well as established acts are showcased there. Open Wednesday and Thursday 5 pm-1 am, Friday and Saturday 5 pm-3 am. Located in the basement of the Playhouse, in central Durban, Durban. Phone 304-2377. | Performing Arts | Top  |
All the musical styles and genres you know (classical, jazz, pop, contemporary) are featured at venues in Durban, as well as some musical forms that you perhaps don't know, such as iscathamiya (unaccompanied rhythmic singing with extensive use of harmonies), maskanda (rhythmic and repetitive guitar picking accompanied by singing or whistling) and imbube (Zulu choral music).
Iscathamiya is associated with a quiet, rhythmic step, and the uniformity of the movement has to have a soft touch or step, called isibebhu in Zulu. The best-known exponents of iscathamiya are Ladysmith Black Mambazo, the group that shot to international prominence from its collaboration with Paul Simon. Maskanda developed during the '50s and '60s when Zulu men, who worked as gardeners in white suburban areas, would walk along the streets to meet their friends, carrying a cheap guitar over their shoulders. They would strum repetitive tunes, and whistle along or sing stories in Zulu about their homes in faraway rural areas. Some might recall that the "white Zulu," Johnny Clegg, performed this musical style in the 1970s as Juluka.
If you get the chance, do treat yourself to performances that feature these unique styles of music.
The University of KwaZulu-Natal Music School presents free lunch-hour concerts during the school year at its Howard College Theatre. 12:15-1:15 pm. King George V Avenue (on the Berea ridge of the Glenwood area), Durban. The KZN Philharmonic Orchestra is the only full-fledged orchestra in South Africa. Established in 1983, the orchestra performs at various venues in the city, including the highly popular NBS Sunset Proms concert at Kingsmead Stadium and the Nedbank Music at the Lake series at the Durban Botanic Gardens. Besides its South African players, the orchestra's musicians originate from such diverse countries as Bulgaria, Canada, Russia, the U.S., Germany and the U.K. Phone 369-0438. http://www.kznpo.co.za. A unique venue, this theater has developed a reputation for staging consistent quality productions. Theatergoers can choose from a cash bar or restaurant, or they are welcome to take their own food and enjoy a picnic supper. Located in the Gateway Theatre of Shopping in Umhlanga, Durban. Phone 566-3045. If you have young children, chances are the Catalina Theatre will have something on stage to entertain them as well as you. Wilson's Wharf, Victoria Embankment, Durban. Phone 305-6889. Dockyard relocated from the Point Waterfront. It now has two stages, two bars and a balcony overlooking both stages. Musgrave Road (in the Musgrave Centre in the Berea area), Durban. Phone 201-9147. This theater features musicals, opera, drama and performances by students at the University of KwaZulu-Natal, Howard College Campus, as well as three annual international festivals. It seats 400. Princess Alice Drive (on the Berea), Durban. Phone 260-2296. This is an intimate theater in a renovated church. Founded by professor Pieter Scholtz, the cozy venue seats 110 patrons. The theater opened in 1996 and has a courtyard for outdoor performances as well as a coffee shop and bar. 53 Stamford Hill Road, Greyville, Durban. Phone 309-2236. Situated in the heart of the city, the Playhouse has five performing-arts theaters showcasing a range of contemporary and classical works. 231 Smith St. (corner of Smith and Acutt streets), Durban. Phone 369-9555. The BAT (Bartel Arts Trust) celebrated its 10th anniversary in 2005. Established with funds left by an eccentric Austrian millionaire who was fascinated by South African arts and culture, the BAT Centre is one of the city's premier venues for live music, visual arts and restaurants. There is live music on the deck every Friday and Sunday, featuring up-and-coming local bands that play maskandi, Afro-jazz, folk, drumming and hip-hop, as well as other genres such as rock and reggae. This artsy hangout is also one of the few places in Durban where you'll see different ethnic and racial groups mingling with ease. Victoria Embankment (small craft harbor), Durban. Phone 332-0451. http://www.batcentre.co.za. Everything from international concerts and theatrical productions to boxing, wrestling, tennis and equestrian events are held in this air-conditioned venue, which accommodates audiences of up to 10,000. Located on the south side of the International Conventional Centre building on Commercial Road, the arena is not far from the beachfront or the central business district. Check the Web site for upcoming events. 45 Ordnance Road, Durban. Phone 360-1000. http://www.icc.co.za. Music starts at 5:20 pm, and there is a cash bar. Campus of the University of KwaZulu-Natal. Directions to the center: Travel along South Ridge Road, turn right onto Queen Elizabeth Avenue and take the first left onto 75th Anniversary Avenue—UKZN Gate No. 2. Continue until you come to a traffic circle—Jazz Centre (sundeck on left) with Shepstone Student Car Park (on right). Note: UKZN Gate No. 2 shuts at 5:20 pm, after which time you should use main UKZN entrance Gate No. 1. Phone 260-3385. | Spectator Sports | Top |
Durbanites are sports fanatics. Soccer is the most popular sporting event, played by the Durban-based Rangers. The Kings Park Stadium, where soccer matches have been in the past, has been leveled to make room for the new King Senzangakhona Stadium. The old and new stadium grounds are located about a mile/kilometer from the Durban beachfront. There's also rugby, played by the Natal Sharks, and cricket played by the Natal Dolphins.
Horse racing is also big in Durban, and there are two racecourses in the heart of the city. All of these spectator sports draw large crowds of dedicated fans. | Horse Racing | Top |
In 1921, Clairwood Park was transformed from a swamp into the Garden Course. Some 400 races are held there each year, and the facility can seat as many as 20,000 spectators. Phone 469-1020. This is where the annual Vodacom Durban July takes place. First run in 1897, this event attracts some 50,000 spectators, and all go ready for a good joll (Afrikaans for party). Phone 314-1651. Zulu beadwork, baskets and artifacts, 18k and 24k gold jewelry, and intricately designed fabrics worn as saris are what you'll want to shop for in Durban.
The city is home to world-class shopping malls and upscale flea markets. At the BAT Centre, which overlooks the small craft harbor in Durban, you can see artists working in their studios. For great fabrics of all kinds, the best place to shop is along Grey Street in the city center. But don't go alone. This is an area that you'll definitely need a local to help you navigate, for safety reasons and because no matter how skilled you think you are at bartering, you're no match for the Grey Street merchants, many of whom have operated family businesses there for decades.
| Shopping Hours | Top |
Generally Monday-Friday 9 am-5 pm and Saturday 9 am-1 pm. The major shopping centers and malls generally have longer hours: daily till 9 pm and later during Christmas and Easter holidays. The African Art Centre is a nonprofit organization that works on behalf of artists to promote arts and crafts in KwaZulu-Natal. There, you'll find a fabulous collection of Zulu items for sale, including beadwork, grass baskets, hand-painted and embroidered fabrics, artifacts, sculptures and ceremonial sticks. It's of high quality and reasonably priced. Monday-Friday 8:30 am-5 pm, Saturday 9 am-1 pm. 94 Florida Road (opposite Quarters Hotel), Durban. Phone 312-3804. http://www.afriart.org.za. Situated in the leafy suburb of Glenwood, this nonprofit gallery features a gift shop, the Arts Cafe, where you can eat light meals, and the sleek modern lines of an ever-changing gallery. The gallery runs three exhibitions at any one time—in the Main Gallery downstairs, and the Mezzanine and Park galleries upstairs. The focus is on giving good local artists an opportunity to showcase their work, but there are international and national exhibitions as well. The unique treasures you'll find at the gift shop are very reasonably priced. Tuesday-Friday 9 am-5 pm, Saturday 9 am-4 pm, Sunday 10 am-5 pm. 166 Bulwer Road, Durban. Phone 202-3686. http://www.nsgallery.co.za. The Amphimarket takes place every Sunday on Durban's north beach, and it's a great place to find clothing, handmade beadwork, crafts and artwork. Phone 301-3080. If you head for Marine Parade on the beachfront, you can't miss this market, which is a series of small stalls run mostly by women selling a variety of ethnic goods and curios, everything from Zulu shields to the odd plastic, made-in-China Slinky toy (or rather Slinky knockoff). Marine Parade on the Golden Mile, Durban. The upscale Essenwood Craft Market takes place every Saturday 9 am-2 pm in Essenwood Road's Berea Park. Phone 202-5632. The Stables "Lifestyle Flea Market" is Durban's only moonlight market. No one knows for sure, but it must be the only market in the world that is converted in June and July of each year from boutique stalls to horse stables for the annual yearling sales. The market is divided into eight lanes, each named after a winning horse. Arts and crafts, antiques and collectibles, ethnic art, home decor, fashion and fashion accessories—it's all there, along with intercontinental food stalls that serve everything from Mongolian cuisine to Mauritian. Great place to take children. Wednesday and Fri | | |