Shop for malachite necklaces, art made from butterfly wings, hand-drawn greeting cards, and wood masks or carvings (especially of ebony). Don't buy any souvenirs made from ivory. Even if you're not concerned about the elephant population, it's difficult to import ivory into most countries. Also avoid elephant-hair bracelets. There is an enormous selection of colorful printed cotton material, most of it wax-cloth from Holland, available in the markets. The fabric is sold by the pagne (roughly 6 ft/2 m), the amount needed for a complete outfit. It is possible to buy the material and take it to a tailor, who will design an African- or North American-style outfit. If you prefer to buy your clothes ready made, the best place to go is the market at Km 5 in Bangui, where there are rows upon rows of sarongs and embroidered caftans for sale. Bargaining is expected.
Monday-Saturday 8 am-noon and 4-7 pm. Some shops are closed on Monday.
When the country stabilizes, we suggest the following itinerary for a first-time visitor to the C.A.R.:
Day 1—Arrive Bangui.
Day 2—Bangui.
Day 3—Day trip to Boali (if it's a Sunday—to see the waterfall).
Day 4—Day trip to a Pygmy village.
Days 5-8—Dzango-Sangha Reserve.
Day 9—Depart the C.A.R.
Note that transportation breakdowns and weather often cause delays. If possible, allow an extra day or two for such events.
BanguiA mere four degrees north of the equator, Bangui (pop. 732,000) is really the only place in the country where you're likely to find anything resembling modern conveniences. It even has a few French patisseries and a bookstore where you can find month-old copies of Newsweek. There are some interesting museums in town: The Artisanal Center for African Art has ivory carvings and images made with butterfly wings, an art form rarely seen outside the C.A.R. The Boganda Museum has cultural items and ethnic artifacts. (We particularly liked the musical instruments.) Also walk by the shores of the Oubangui River, a major tributary of the Congo River, to watch the fishermen in their dugout canoes. (For a small fee, the fishermen will take you up the river to watch net fishing.) Bangui also has a town market, but it's less interesting than those in other parts of Central Africa. Other attractions include the former president's palace (no photos allowed), the cathedral and diamond-cutting workshops. The city's nightlife is centered in an area called "Kilometre Cinq" (Km 5, pronounced kah-SANK). Unfortunately, this is also the city's most dangerous quarter: If you go, be careful and travel with a group.
About 45 mi/75 km northwest of Bangui is the scenic village of Boali, near the Boali Waterfall (750 ft/229 m tall, 150 ft/46 m wide). The waterfall only occurs on Sunday when water is released from an upstream dam. Be sure to take the staircase behind the falls to the restaurant. The falls are at their best during the wet or rainy season when the water volume is greatest (April-October).
An hour's drive southwest of Bangui, near M'baiki, the Lobaye Forest is home to Pygmy tribes. We highly recommend a day trip to visit their villages and see how they live. On our visit, we were welcomed by a traditional song. If you plan to visit the village, it's a good idea to take along some gifts (e.g. soap, sugar or cigarettes). About 6 mi/10 km northeast of M'baiki, you'll pass a village that specializes in ebony carvings. Bangui is 300 mi/480 km northeast of Dzanga-Ndoki National Park.
Dzanga-Ndoki National Park/Dzanga-Sangha ReserveA bright spot in the country's wildlife scene, Dzanga-Sangha Reserve contains the unspoiled rain forests of the country's southwest. Within the borders of the reserve are Dzanga National Park and Ndoki National Park. Together, these parks are home to a large population of tree-dwelling lowland gorillas. (Don't confuse these animals with the endangered mountain gorillas made famous by Dian Fossey.) Though the gorillas are often hard to spot in the dense forest canopy, a trek through Dzanga-Sangha is probably the best reason to visit the C.A.R. The reserve also contains forest elephants, chimpanzees, waterbuck, monkeys, buffalos, warthogs and bongo (forest antelopes). The reserve headquarters, in the town of Bayanga, is well run. (For more information, contact the World Wildlife Fund office in Bangui.) 300 mi/480 km southwest of Bangui.