Senegal Travel Security

Unlike many West African countries, Senegal has enjoyed considerable political stability and has never experienced a coup d'etat. Nevertheless, three disputed elections in 2007, an increasingly authoritarian regime and a restive opposition are cause for concern with the possibility of unrest in the future.

Currently, however, the main risks to visitors are from a high rate of vehicle accidents at night and street crime, most of it petty theft. Thieves target travelers assiduously, and violent crimes have been increasing rapidly, which is the main reason for the country's risk rating of 6. Also, take note of the continuing insurgency in the Casamance region.

High-risk Areas

Because of rebel activity, the Casamance region of southwestern Senegal is considered dangerous. Some western governments have warned against travel to the Ziguinchor region, including Cap Skirring. Despite the signing of a peace deal in January 2005, isolated rebel activity continues.

Senegal is a secular republic with a strong presidency, weak legislature, reasonably independent judiciary and multiple political parties. There are presently some 65 political parties, most of which are little more than platforms for their leaders. Until the beginning of 2007, the principal political parties had constituted a true multiparty, democratic political culture, and they have contributed to one of the most successful democratic transitions in Africa. A series of dubious elections in 2007, however, cast a shadow over the process.

Abdoulaye Wade, the 81-year-old founder of the ruling Senegalese Democratic Party, won re-election in February 2007. He gained nearly 56% of the votes cast, enough to avoid a second-round ballot. Although opposition parties said they had evidence of fraud, observers from the regional Economic Community of West African States said the voting had been free and fair.

In the parliamentary elections of June 2007, Wade's PDS again swept to victory, taking 131 out of 150 seats. The opposition refused to participate in protest at Wade's allegedly fraudulent victory in the February elections. The opposition coalition also boycotted the August 2007 elections for the upper house, or Senate, and the PDS won 34 out of 35 seats; the president automatically nominated the remaining 65 members.

A flourishing, independent media, largely free from official or informal control, contributes to the democratic politics of Senegal; the country's generally tolerant culture, largely free from ethnic or religious tensions, has provided a resilient base for democratic politics.

The economy is predominantly agricultural; about 70% of the labor force is engaged in farming. Since the devaluation of the CFA franc in 1994, the government has implemented a series of economic policy reforms to enhance competitiveness by dismantling monopolies, liberalizing markets and privatizing several state-owned industries. It also has initiated several large-scale infrastructure projects, including the planned second international airport near Dakar and major road improvement between Dakar and Bamako.

Air Senegal, run in partnership with the Moroccan national airline, has proved very successful. Economically important industries involve fish and fish products, phosphates, fertilizers, peanuts and tourism. The government continues to receive substantial assistance from international financial institutions and other sources. Senegal's Poverty Reduction and Growth loan package expired in 2006, so the government negotiated a financial monitoring arrangement with the IMF to provide technical support for its domestic poverty-reduction program.

Separatist movements

Since 1982, a rebellion led by the secessionist group Movement of Democratic Forces in the Casamance has claimed many civilian, military and rebel lives. A cease-fire in October 2003 has had little effect on sporadic violence. In December 2007, a presidential envoy in charge of coordinating the peace process was shot dead along with another man; a year earlier, the head of the local regional council had been murdered.

Most incidents have occurred in Basse-Casamance and in the district of Kolda in Haute Casamance, close to the border with Guinea-Bissau. Hostages have been taken in the coastal area of Casamance, and visitors are particularly at risk on roads west of Kolda. Travelers have reported being attacked on roads leading to the border with Gambia and from Bignona to Sedoba

Terrorist attacks have taken place in Ziguinchor, the regional capital, so travel to the city should only be undertaken by air. Similarly, visitors should only travel to Cap-Skirring by air and should not venture out of the hotel district.

Border and regional issues

The only two official border crossings into or out of Mauritania are at Diama and Rosso. Long delays are common at both crossings, and the ferry crossing at Rosso only operates 9 am-5 pm.

Civil unrest

Strikes and demonstrations in Dakar are frequent, and protests occasionally become violent. Police often quickly resort to batons and/or tear gas to disperse unruly crowds.

Vigilante groups and mobs have reportedly lynched suspected thieves. This type of mob violence generally went unpunished in the past, but police recently have begun arresting instigators.

Avoid large public gatherings and plan routes around any rallies or demonstrations. Government buildings, such as police stations, and businesses with foreign affiliations can provide a focus for anger and should be avoided. Remain alert to your surroundings and maintain a low profile--don't do, say or wear anything that would call undue attention to yourself. If violence breaks out, quickly but calmly move away and seek shelter in a hotel or large public building, such as a museum or library. Traffic and public transport may be disrupted; plan alternate routes you can use if roads are closed or blocked, and allow extra time for any travel in the area. If you encounter a roadblock or barricade erected by either demonstrators or security forces, be patient and avoid provoking a confrontation.

Human-rights abuses

The government generally respects the rights of its residents, although there have been some serious problems in the past. The judiciary is subject to government influence and pressure, and it suffers from low salaries and insufficient resources. At the time of the 2001 presidential elections, government forces reportedly were responsible for extrajudicial killings, including some civilian deaths. Police arbitrarily arrested and detained people, and tortured and beat suspects during questioning. Lengthy pretrial detention is a problem, and prison conditions are poor.

Land mines and unexploded ordnance

The area in and around Casamance has reportedly been cleared of mines, according to army officials, but visitors should still exercise caution in that area. Land mines remain in the Cap Skirring region, because clearing operations have been held up by the unrest in the region. In early September 2006, a Swiss-American working for the international Red Cross was killed when the vehicle she was in struck a mine or some form of unexploded ordnance in southwest Senegal.

In destinations with areas that have been contaminated with land mines or unexploded ordnance, never pick up any unidentified metal or plastic object. Report any finds to local authorities. Exercise caution around construction areas, as mines or ordnance could be uncovered during excavation. Travelers should be accompanied or briefed by guides familiar with mined areas. To the extent possible, remain on well-traveled roads, tracks and paths. Under no circumstances should you enter an area marked as mined.

Additional information

Customs will hold any expensive electronic device, such as a laptop computer, for an exoneration period to ensure that you are not attempting to resell the item and avoid customs duties. If you don't absolutely have to have such a device while on your trip, leave it at home.

Upon clearing customs, you are apt to be set upon by "expediters" and/or "taxi handlers" who will try to separate you from some of your money. Avoid any use of expediters.

Senegal suffers from the full spectrum of criminal activity, and incidents have been increasing to the point where walking alone at night in Dakar is not advisable. If confronted by a thief, it's safer to comply than to resist. Reported incidents in which resistance escalated to violence have become more frequent.

Petty crime

The most commonly reported incidents are crimes of opportunity: pickpocketing, thefts from vehicles, purse snatching and minor assaults. The downtown area of Dakar--including the popular shopping areas of Avenue Georges Pompidou, Lamine Gueye, Place de l'Independence and Marche Sandaga--has seen an increase in such incidents.

Westerners walking in downtown Dakar in daylight can expect to be set upon by aggressive vendors and street criminals who are either trying to sell something for an inflated price or are looking for an opportunity to rob the unsuspecting. Be particularly alert in Dakar's restaurant districts, called "La Petite Corniche" and St. Louis. Visitors also have been targeted at Leopold Senghor International Airport in Dakar.

Never accept anything from anyone on the street unless you are planning to buy the item. Also beware of anyone presenting you with a "gift"--a scam in which the giver will then demand that you pay for the item. Just say "no"; be persistent and forceful.

Senegalese law requires carrying valid identity documents on your person at all times. Make photocopies of any identification documents and carry only the copies while on the street. Place original documents, including passports, into secure storage at your hotel or place of business.

Hold bags and purses securely or carry them in an inside pocket, making sure the openings are fastened; keep the openings turned toward you and away from any passers-by. Don't carry a bag with a long strap, as such straps are easier for a thief to grab. Don't wear expensive watches or jewelry, and don't display large amounts of cash; take care with electronic equipment. If you're carrying a cell phone, take care to safeguard it, as mobile phones are highly coveted by thieves in many places. Keep car doors and windows closed and locked.

Violent crime

Violent crimes and crimes involving the use of weapons have increased dramatically. Beaches near Lac Rose have been the scene of several recent armed assaults.

Avoid driving into unfamiliar areas, especially at night. Park in an illuminated and well-traveled area if at all possible. If you do drive and park, it is common practice for a street person to offer to watch your car for you while you shop or eat in a restaurant. Paying the US$0.20/100 CFA when you return can save you a great deal of trouble. Have the money ready before you walk out to your car, to avoid being seen handling cash.

Police effectiveness

Police in Dakar wear a khaki uniform with either a red or a black beret. The gendarmes (a military unit of police) wear blue uniforms or green fatigues with a blue beret and patrol areas outside the capital. Don't expect more than rudimentary assistance from either force, as they are underfunded, understaffed and ill-equipped. It's not uncommon for them to ask for money in return for what most Western visitors would consider rudimentary services.

The government recently created a tourist police force, but it's too soon to know if it will be effective.

Roads can be impassable during the rainy season, August-September, in northern and western regions and July-September in eastern and central regions.

Animals

A hippopotamus killed four people in southeastern Senegal in early 2004 and left remaining villagers in the area too frightened to fish in the Gambia River. Hippos can be very dangerous when aroused, and visitors should give them a wide berth.

Health care is adequate in Dakar but limited elsewhere.

Medical facilities

Public hospitals do not meet modern standards, but several private clinics in Dakar can treat major and minor injuries and illnesses.

Medications available at pharmacies throughout Dakar and in other areas frequented by tourists are mostly of French manufacture and will bear French trade names. Travelers should carry a supply of any needed prescription medicines, along with copies of the prescriptions, including the generic name for the drugs, and a supply of preferred over-the-counter medications.

Diseases

Malaria is prevalent, so take precautions against mosquito bites, and see your doctor about malaria-preventive medication before you leave on your trip.

Outbreaks of cholera are regularly reported. In 2005, a major epidemic in the sacred city of Touba, where more than 1 million pilgrims had congregated for an annual festival, spread across the whole country as infected pilgrims carried the waterborne disease home with them. You should drink only bottled water and avoid ice in your drinks.

Other health hazards present in Senegal are hepatitis A, typhoid, polio and meningococcal disease.

Mosquitoes carry many serious illnesses, including dengue fever, malaria and West Nile virus. To prevent bites and avoid infection, reduce the amount of exposed skin by wearing long sleeves, long pants, socks and shoes when you're outdoors. Use insect repellent containing deet on exposed skin. Avoid outdoor activities from dusk to dawn, the time when mosquitoes are most active.

Waterborne diseases can cause a variety of serious health problems, including cholera, norovirus and amebiasis. In areas where chlorinated water is not available or where hygiene and sanitation are generally poor, you should consider both liquid water and ice unsafe. Stick to the following, which generally are considered safe: Beverages made with boiled water, such as tea and coffee; canned or bottled carbonated beverages; beer; and wine. It's usually safer to drink beverages directly from the bottle or can, but be sure to wipe off any water on the outside of the container. In areas where water may be contaminated, avoid brushing your teeth with tap water.

Travel outside Dakar is generally safe except for the Casamance region. Many areas of Senegal, however, are very isolated, and vehicle accidents pose considerable risk nationwide. Seek local advice from your embassy or other knowledgeable, reliable individuals before setting out on a journey.

Road conditions

Road conditions in Senegal range from adequate to poor. Travelers should remain on the major hard-surfaced routes and drive during daylight hours only. Paved roads link most major cities, but they're often in poor repair and may have stretches with potholes and other obstacles. Rural roads range from well-maintained dirt and gravel routes to sand tracks.

Cars in traffic circles have the right-of-way. Be cautious when entering traffic circles, as some drivers may not be aware of the change.

Public transportation

Public transport, including van taxis and motorbikes, is available, but be cautious, particularly if the vehicle appears to be overloaded and/or poorly maintained. Fatal accidents are frequent.

For taxis, negotiate a price before getting into the cab. Have the driver stick to the main roads into town, with no shortcuts, and never get into a taxi that is occupied. If the cab stops to pick up someone else, tell the driver you will not pay him. The driver may be trying to set you up to be robbed.

Train services around Senegal have been cut, and your options are limited to a twice-weekly service to Thies and Tambacounda (and on to Bamako in Mali).

In areas where there's crime related to the use of taxis, never hail a cab or accept a ride in a taxi that is unmarked or seems to be cruising for business. Instead, phone a taxi and book it in advance. Check that the taxi that arrives is the one you booked--make the driver say in what name the reservation was made. Don't get in a cab that already contains other passengers. If the cab doesn't have a meter, agree on a fare before getting in. If it does have a meter, make sure the driver has it turned on. If at any time you begin to feel uncomfortable, ask to be let out in a well-lighted area where there are other people around.

Additional information

Crossing the Senegal River by private pirogue is both dangerous and illegal.

The use of cell phones while driving is prohibited unless the driver is using "hands-free" headphones and microphone. Police strictly enforce the law with heavy fines and confiscation of driving licenses.

Travelers' facilities are widely available in varying quality levels. Making international calls from Senegal can be very expensive, and cell-phone coverage is limited. Internet and e-mail access also is limited in some areas.

Credit cards are accepted only at a few major hotels, travel agencies and airlines. ATMs are available in Dakar, but banking facilities elsewhere are limited.

No matter how safe you perceive a destination to be, it's important to use good judgment.

• Pay attention to local media.
• Avoid open displays of wealth, jewelry or other valuables. Safeguard travel documents such as passports and airline tickets.
• Avoid confrontations with locals.
• Avoid demonstrations and protests, especially if they appear political in nature.
• Don't permit people you don't know to enter your accommodations. Keep your door locked. Don't leave valuables in your room unless they can be locked in a safe.
• Avoid illegal drugs, and don't drink alcohol if its use is prohibited. Even if drinking is legal, don't overindulge.
• Be cautious of unsolicited offers of assistance from strangers.

In recent years, political terrorism has become a global phenomenon - an attack could occur with little warning anywhere in the world, even in destinations long regarded as safe. Travelers should keep themselves informed of developments that could affect their safety, no matter what their destination.