Madagascar Travel Security

The situation in Madagascar is calm, and the main hazards are from petty crime and damage from tropical storm systems. A stable central government is in control, but the political atmosphere sometimes is charged and civil unrest breaks out occasionally, so the risk rating has been set at 6. Be alert, monitor local media for developments, register with your local embassy and have a plan of action in case of civil unrest. Avoid crowds and demonstrations.

Northeastern regions--the so-called Vanilla Coast--were devastated by a series of six major cyclones in early 2007 that killed at least 150 people. The year was called the worst cyclone season in the country's recorded history. Damage to infrastructure was severe. The same region was severely hit again in 2008. If you have a trip planned to the affected areas, confirm arrangements locally to ensure needed services are operating normally.

High-risk Areas

None.

Political uncertainty has plagued Madagascar in recent times. Opposition protests, claims of media manipulation and, most recently, an apparent coup attempt by an army general that had the support of several of the presidential contenders had all added to social tensions.

In December 2006, Malagasy leader Marc Ravalomanana was re-elected president after winning 55% of the vote. Legislative elections were held in September 2007, with Ravalomanana's ruling Tiako I Madagasikara party winning an outright victory by taking 106 out of 127 seats.

Because of increased foreign investment and despite high oil and food prices, Madagascar achieved a good economic performance in 2007. In recent years the economy has seen inflation on a downward trend, closing out 2007 at 8.2%, compared to 18.4% in 2005. The good performance of the agriculture sector led to an improvement in the food supply, which, coupled with the relative stability of local currency, helped Madagascar to achieve a growth rate of 6.2% in 2007.

Historical background

Trouble in Madagascar began in 2001 with hotly contested presidential elections that led to violence and protests. It took several months, ballot recounts and court rulings before Marc Ravalomanana officially was declared the winner over Didier Ratsiraka.

After the first round of voting in December 2001, Ravalomanana proclaimed himself president and organized a widespread general strike and mass protests of the polls. The general strike and protests virtually shut down the economic base of the country, especially in Antananarivo. Public transport came to a standstill, and most businesses closed. State news broadcasters stopped operating. Many of the massive protests turned violent, and a state of emergency was declared in February 2002.

In May 2002, the high court of Madagascar determined that Ravalomanana was the duly elected leader. However, Ratsiraka maintained that the court-supervised recount was biased and refused to relinquish his claim to the presidency. Ravalomanana then threatened military force to break a blockade of Antananarivo.

During May and early June, fighting intensified but fell short of all-out war. In June 2002, Ratsiraka left Madagascar for Paris, and then returned for talks. However, by early July, the balance had tipped to Ravalomanana, and the U.S. became the first country to acknowledge his presidency. Ratsiraka again left to live in exile in Paris and, in August 2003, was sentenced in absentia to 10 years of hard labor on charges of embezzling public funds.

Domestic terrorism

Grenades are commonly used as an instrument of protest in Madagascar.

Racial and ethnic tensions

Ethnic tension between Merinas, the highland people of Madagascar, and coastal people, known as Cotiers, continues to simmer.

In April 2007, several thousand Cotier demonstrators attempted to reach an avenue overlooking the ocean when a small number of people began to harass the crowd with anti-ethnic epithets. The harassment sparked a number of looting incidents in the area, aimed at the Merina community. Armed forces were called in; in the resulting clash, one individual was killed and at least eight people were reported wounded.

Civil unrest

Civil unrest driven by economic hardship is common. Student demonstrations sparked by increases in the cost of public transport are particularly frequent. They end occasionally in rock throwing or clashes with police.

In the event of problems, many roads into and out of Antananarivo may be blocked.

Register with your embassy immediately upon arrival. Monitor local media for updates on the situation in the country and avoid all demonstrations or other large public gatherings, especially if they appear political in nature. If violence or rioting breaks out near your location, attempt to go to your consulate. If you can't get to the consulate, return to your hotel or take shelter in a large public building such as a hotel, museum, hospital or department store, then contact the consulate by phone. Avoid government buildings and police stations, which may serve as a focus for public anger. In your hotel, resist the temptation to watch unrest--stay away from windows and keep the drapes closed.

Human-rights abuses

Madagascar has signed or ratified several of the principal international human-rights treaties, and human rights are generally respected. Security forces, however, sometimes have used excessive force when dispersing demonstrations, which at times has led to injury.

The death penalty remains in force. In November 2007, 12 people were sentenced to death in August 2006 clashes in Ankorondrano. Ninety-one people had been charged in the case, with six receiving 12 years of hard labor.

Although a good deal of work has been done to improve prison conditions, some are reported to be harsh. There are restrictions on freedom of assembly and expression. Women continue to face societal discrimination, and there have been unconfirmed reports of trafficking in women and girls.

Additional information

In some remote areas of Madagascar, indigenous people engage in practices that are covered by taboos known locally as "fady." These areas may be forbidden to foreigners, so if you intend to travel off the beaten track, take local advice before setting out.

The Malagasy franc is no longer legal tender but will remain exchangeable at banks until 2009. Make sure you are not left with large amounts of either local currency at the end of your stay, as some banks will not change either back into foreign currency.

Police report that crime increased in Antananarivo during 2007. Most crimes are economically driven crimes of opportunity, and foreigners are attractive targets. Don't assume you can "blend in" with the resident population; most foreigners are easily identifiable as such. Don't wear expensive jewelry or carry pricey items while walking or using public transportation; don't walk about alone at night or depart from bars or nightclubs on foot. Valuable goods should never be left in an unattended vehicle. Although crimes such as burglary do occur in areas outside the capital, the threat of confrontational crime is less common in rural areas.

Petty crime

Pickpocketing is common at airports and tourist sites. Purse snatching and theft from vehicles and property are common, as well. Organized groups of thieves are known to patrol areas where foreign visitors congregate. Although such incidents are generally nonviolent, criminals sometimes become violent if a victim resists.

Be careful of people presenting themselves as guides, especially in Fort Dauphin.

Violent crime

Armed robberies are on the increase in urban areas. Some robberies have been reported in Madagascar's national parks, and banditry has been reported on the RN7 highway near the Isalo reserve. Motorists and hikers in the area between Fianarantsoa and Tulear are particularly vulnerable. Note that many criminals are armed with assault rifles that were stolen from military armories during the political crisis in 2001-02.

Police effectiveness

Resources available to police agencies are very limited, so response to crime scenes often is slow and sometimes nonexistent. Nevertheless, many individual officers are capable and professional.

Telephone calls to the police often go unanswered or are met with a busy signal. Note that police may take some time and ask some questions to determine the credibility of the caller, as criminals have been known to make false calls that lure police away from the scene of an intended crime.

The island is seriously exposed to tropical cyclones. These generally affect only the eastern portion of the island, but they can bring torrential rains and destructive floods. Roads may be impassable during the rainy season, November-April.

Hurricanes, cyclones and typhoons

The storm season usually runs January-March, but cyclones can occur later in the year, too. During the season, bridges sometimes are washed away, and ferry service can be disrupted. Monitor local weather conditions carefully before and during your stay. Tropical storms can wreak havoc on transportation and other services.

The 2007 and 2008 cyclone seasons were particularly severe. Hundreds lost their lives and more than 500,000 people lost their homes. Cyclone Ivan in February 2008 was one of the largest ever to hit Madagascar. It severely damaged crops, buildings and infrastructure.

Hurricanes, cyclones and typhoons may begin disrupting transportation, especially air travel, days in advance of landfall. Those planning travel to an area a tropical system is approaching should keep in close contact with their airline to monitor flight status. These storms can destroy everything in their path, and a single storm can kill scores of people. Take frequent note of storm advisories to monitor the approach of the storm so that you have plenty of time to evacuate--note that roads may be blocked by flooding, cutting off your escape, long before the storm itself arrives in your area. Contact local emergency services for the nearest evacuation center. Ensure your car is in good working condition and has a full tank of fuel. If you are evacuating, beware of flooding, downed power lines, and ruptured gas pipes. Drive carefully as roads may be filled with debris. Note that snakes and other wildlife may be present on streets and paths. Don't be lulled by the relative calm if the eye of the storm passes over your area--the storm will resume again as the eye moves on.

Provision for health care is limited in Madagascar.

Medical facilities

There are a number of competent physicians in Antananarivo, representing a broad range of specialties. The hospital infrastructure, however, is minimal and does not meet basic sanitary norms. A Seventh-day Adventist dental clinic offers emergency procedures and has a competent laboratory and X-ray facilities. Most medications are available.

Emergency care

Medical treatment for injuries, especially if serious, is extremely limited. Injured people may require medical evacuation, usually to Reunion Island or South Africa. Medical evacuation insurance is highly recommended.

Diseases

By July 2008 some two dozen people had died and hundreds of others had been infected in an outbreak of rift valley fever in the north, south and central highlands of Madagascar. Transmitted primarily by mosquitoes, rift valley fever is a dangerous disease that affects both livestock and humans.

Humans can also become infected through direct contact with material and liquids such as animal blood during slaughtering, while the uncooked milk of infected animals can also pose a risk. No cases of human-to-human transmission have ever been reported.

Malaria is endemic. A virulent strain of cerebral malaria is particularly prevalent in coastal areas. There have been reported cases of dengue fever and Chikungunya virus in Madagascar.

Other prevalent diseases include bilharzia, hepatitis B and C, tuberculosis, bubonic plague and rabies.

HIV/AIDS reportedly is increasing--health authorities estimate that one in every 95 residents is infected. An outbreak of syphilis in July 2007 prompted authorities to declare a state of emergency in the southern town of Fort Dauphin. Safe-sex practices are essential.

Cholera outbreaks sometimes are reported during the rainy season, so stringent hygiene precautions are necessary. Drink only bottled water and avoid eating food at street stalls. Waterborne diseases are of particular concern in cyclone-ravaged areas.

Mosquitoes carry many serious illnesses, including dengue fever, malaria and West Nile virus. To prevent bites and avoid infection, reduce the amount of exposed skin by wearing long sleeves, long pants, socks and shoes when you're outdoors. Use insect repellent containing deet on exposed skin. Avoid outdoor activities from dusk to dawn, the time when mosquitoes are most active.

Cholera is usually contracted after consuming contaminated water or food. In areas where the disease is endemic, visitors should take care not to consume untreated water (including ice) or eat undercooked or raw foods, especially fish or shellfish. Stick to beverages and ice that are made from boiled or chlorinated water or that are carbonated. Foods that are cooked and served hot are usually safe. Fruits and vegetables that you wash with clean water and peel yourself also are generally safe. Don't assume that food and beverages served on airline flights, trains or vessels departing from affected areas are safe--items served on board the aircraft may have been locally obtained and could be contaminated. Seek medical assistance if you think you may have been exposed.

The poor condition of roads and public transportation means that overland travel can pose hazards. Military and police roadblocks are common. When approaching a checkpoint, slow down to a crawl and be prepared to show identification. If you're on a cell-phone call at the time, terminate the call immediately. Keep your windows rolled up while displaying your identification papers.

Road conditions

Except for Antananarivo's main streets and a few well-maintained routes to outlying cities, most roads are in disrepair; flooding has washed out some roads in recent years. For those traveling by road between cities, driving at night is not recommended.

Roads tend to be narrow and winding, with many one-lane bridges and blind curves. Heavy freight traffic on major roads in and out of Antananarivo can pose hazards. Vehicles tend to drive in the center of the road unless another vehicle is present. Local practice is to blow the horn before going around a curve, to let others know of your presence.

Most major intersections and traffic circles have police directing traffic. If the police officer has his back to you at an intersection, you are required to stop.

Public transportation

Public transportation is unreliable. Vehicles are poorly maintained, and driving standards are low. In December 2007, some 40 people died and dozens more were injured in two bus accidents that were blamed on driver errors.

Note that urban transport shuts down at about 8 pm. Rail service is limited and unreliable. However, arrangements can be made for a private train to travel to certain destinations.

Ferry services may operate only sporadically during the rainy season.

Facilities for travelers vary widely. It's best to reconfirm bookings before departure for any accommodations outside Antananarivo. Power cuts occur frequently. Credit cards and traveler's checks increasingly are accepted at stores, hotels and banks. Fees of up to 7% of the transaction value may be charged. A few ATMs are available in the capital. Some banks have begun refusing to accept American Express traveler's checks after several reports that fraudulent checks were found in circulation.

Infrastructure in cyclone-stricken areas has been compromised.

No matter how safe you perceive a destination to be, it's important to use good judgment.

• Pay attention to local media.
• Avoid open displays of wealth, jewelry or other valuables. Safeguard travel documents such as passports and airline tickets.
• Avoid confrontations with locals.
• Avoid demonstrations and protests, especially if they appear political in nature.
• Don't permit people you don't know to enter your accommodations. Keep your door locked. Don't leave valuables in your room unless they can be locked in a safe.
• Avoid illegal drugs, and don't drink alcohol if its use is prohibited. Even if drinking is legal, don't overindulge.
• Be cautious of unsolicited offers of assistance from strangers.

In recent years, political terrorism has become a global phenomenon - an attack could occur with little warning anywhere in the world, even in destinations long regarded as safe. Travelers should keep themselves informed of developments that could affect their safety, no matter what their destination.