Cote d'Ivoire Travel Security

Once among the more stable nations in West Africa, Cote d'Ivoire erupted in late 2002 when a rebel military junta attempted to overthrow the government of President Laurent Gbagbo and seized control of the northern half of the country. French troops, later reinforced by U.N. and West African peacekeepers, intervened to keep the rebels and the regular army apart. That situation has become the status quo despite the conclusion of peace deals, several cease-fires and disarmament plans. Gbagbo and rebel leader Guillaume Soro officially declared the war over in August 2007, but the security situation in the country remains fragile and unpredictable, especially in advance of elections set for November 2008.

In short, Cote d'Ivoire continues to be a very dangerous destination, which is why its risk rating has been set at 9.

Because of the considerable violence directed at foreigners and foreign institutions, Westerners in particular should keep a low profile. Violent crime also poses serious hazards. Pay close attention to local media and any warnings or advisories issued by your embassy. Avoid large public gatherings. Most Western governments warn travelers to exercise extreme caution while traveling in Cote d'Ivoire.

High-risk Areas

Travel anywhere outside the immediate area of Abidjan remains dangerous. Travel to rebel-controlled areas in the north and west of the country--including the Montagnes and Moyen Cavally regions and the cities of Korhoga, Bouake, Man and Danane--poses particularly grave hazards. Military government has been imposed in some western regions. Seek local advice before venturing into regions under martial law.

Exercise great caution in the area between Deukoue and Odienne, where armed rebels under the influence of alcohol and/or drugs continue to pose hazards.

In April 2007, former rebel Guillaume Soro was appointed prime minister and charged with three key tasks: re-launching the voter registration and identification process in preparation for elections, disarming rebel and government militias, and dismantling the buffer zone that has divided the country since 2002. In November 2007, Gbagbo and Soro signed a deal to hold elections in June 2008 "at the latest."

The U.N. and French peacekeepers then withdrew from the buffer zone. In September 2007, a program was launched to give identification papers to the hundreds of thousands of Ivorians who do not have them. Nevertheless, in March 2008 the U.N. transferred to national government control three disarmament facilities in the country's northern region. At the same time, more than 100 former rebel fighters surrendered their weapons.

Soon it became apparent that the country still would not be ready to hold elections as scheduled, and the polls were put off for another five months, with the first round to be held on 30 November 2008. Shortly afterward the president reassured visiting Security Council members that there would be no further delays.

Meanwhile, the economy is faltering. Up to the signing of the new peace agreement, international confidence in the country's ability to solve its problems had been draining away. Cote d'Ivoire, once the region's economic success, has missed loan repayments to the World Bank and the African Development Bank, which has pointedly moved its headquarters from Abidjan to Tunisia.

Cote d'Ivoire is the world's largest producer of cocoa, which represents the country's main source of income but makes it vulnerable to price fluctuations. A slump in world cocoa prices, combined with political instability, has led to a serious decline in the country's economy. The country also has a small but growing crude-oil output and refined petroleum industry, which has helped offset declining revenues from other sectors.

Land disputes are an increasingly serious issue, as agricultural land has become scarcer. The area of forest that can be opened up for new agricultural development has all but disappeared. Because of government corruption and a poor human-rights record, most external assistance, except humanitarian aid, has been cut off. Prospects for economic improvement are not good until overall security and stability return to normal.

Historical background

The conflict that erupted in September 2002 had been brewing for some time, generated in part by economic and religious tensions. In the months before the 2002 rebellion, civil unrest grew because the government was unable to pay workers properly. Workers in many sectors, including judiciary and telecommunications, led strikes for better wages and conditions.

Religious tensions also contributed to the outbreak of insurrection, as many residents in the mostly Muslim northern part of the country felt that the government had marginalized them.

The civil war left rebels in control of the northern half of the country, but an uneasy calm was restored in January 2003 after Cote d'Ivoire's former colonial ruler, France, brokered a power-sharing agreement. The Economic Community of West African States announced it would intervene to resolve the crisis, and some 4,000 French and 1,500 West African peacekeepers were deployed to a buffer zone in the middle of the country. In April 2004, a U.N. mission was established, with a French force taking the role of rapid deployment support.

Agreements mediated by President Thabo Mbeki of South Africa during the first half of 2005 failed to produce significant progress on key issues. The African Union, supported by the U.N., agreed in October 2005 that Gbagbo should remain as head of state for a transitional 12-month period, but that a new prime minister should be named to oversee the transition.

In a further deal brokered by Mbeki and Nigerian President Olesegun Obasanjo in December 2005, Charles Konan Banny was appointed prime minister; he was given the tasks of organizing elections and disarming northern rebels and militias loyal to the president. The U.N. said that he would be given the necessary powers, and elections were scheduled for October 2006. Relations between the president and prime minister, however, were frosty.

In March 2006, Gbagbo delayed plans to identify Ivorian nationals ahead of elections, a move that revealed the importance of a controversy between north and south: The northern population demands full electoral representation, and the southern population wants to establish a "pure" Ivorian identity. In the south, the policy is known locally as Ivorite and is based on the belief that southerners are the country's true indigenes.

By September 2006, the issue of nationality remained unresolved. Little progress had been made on the issues that were preconditions for polls--identification and registration of voters and disarmament of militias and rebels. Thus, when a meeting in New York between the country's main rivals and African mediators failed to end the deadlock, the U.N. again postponed elections and extended the mandate of the transitional government for a further year.

Another U.N. resolution in November 2006 gave Banny a new mandate to implement all provisions of a U.N.-backed road map to peace that was intended to reunite the country. That included disarming militias, overseeing registration of voters, restoring state authority throughout the country, and implementing agreements between the opposing sides to hold free elections. For Gbagbo's part, his mistrust of Banny encouraged him to engage in fresh talks with the rebels. By March 2007, a breakthrough was achieved when Gbagbo signed a peace agreement with New Forces leader Guillaume Soro. Most Ivorians, however, are at best cautiously optimistic about the chances for lasting peace.

Border and regional issues

In January 2007, seven people were killed in an attack on Ivorian security forces by suspected smugglers near the town of Noe, on the border with Ghana.

Cote d'Ivoire's borders with Liberia and Burkina Faso were closed after hostilities broke out in September 2002, but not before thousands of refugees fleeing the fighting were able to cross. The borders have reopened and closed several times since then and occasional gunfire and skirmishes have been reported. Seek local advice before attempting to cross.

Civil unrest

There are frequent spontaneous violent demonstrations in Abidjan. Xenophobic supporters of the president--so-called "Young Patriots"--have staged frequent violent demonstrations, wielding clubs and machetes and generally rampaging through the capital. On one occasion, they set the French Embassy on fire.

In mid-March 2008, disgruntled soldiers rioted for two days in Duekoue, 250 mi/400 km north west of Abidjan. At the same time and in the same region, there were also clashes between different ethnic groups, as well as disputes over access to cocoa fields.

In early April 2008, one protester was killed and at least a dozen others were wounded in two days of clashes with police in Yopougon and Cocody as they demanded government action to curb food prices. Matters calmed down only when President Gbagbo canceled proposed customs duties and cut taxes on basic household products.

Political instability has led to economic decline and high unemployment, exacerbating social tensions and creating the potential for more labor unrest and civil disorder. Foreign individuals, institutions, embassies and other facilities, including those of the U.N., frequently are targeted in such protests. Take particular care in public places and avoid all crowds and demonstrations.

Register with your embassy immediately upon arrival. Monitor local media for updates on the situation in the country and avoid all demonstrations or other large public gatherings, especially if they appear political in nature. If violence or rioting breaks out near your location, attempt to go to your consulate. If you can't get to the consulate, return to your hotel or take shelter in a large public building such as a hotel, museum, hospital or department store, then contact the consulate by phone. Avoid government buildings and police stations, which may serve as a focus for public anger. In your hotel, resist the temptation to watch unrest--stay away from windows and keep the drapes closed.

Institutional corruption

In May 2008 a government committee reported that bribes extracted by the security forces and police at road blocks along most of the country's main transport routes were pushing already-high food prices even higher. A senior minister called for a national campaign to fight corruption and bribery at roadblocks, and military chiefs said they would destroy a number of road blocks and apply harsh penalties to officers who continued to extract bribes.

Human-rights abuses

The U.N. has alleged that crackdowns against members of opposition factions have left hundreds dead, including some foreigners. Malians and Burkinabes particularly have been targeted. The security forces have a history of harassing northern and Muslim residents.

A June 2007 report by the human-rights group Global Witness titled "Hot Chocolate" said that cocoa has affected Cote d'Ivoire in the same way that "blood diamonds" have adversely affected lives in Sierra Leone and Liberia, and oil has fueled violence in the Niger Delta. Global Witness called on the U.N. and chocolate companies to take advantage of a lull in the country's unrest to introduce reforms that would ensure chocolate no longer funds conflict.

Journalists also have been harassed. The organization Reporters Without Borders has accused pro-government factions of launching a "reign of terror" against journalists. Although such activities rarely affect visitors, the generally xenophobic atmosphere is a source of concern.

In May 2008, Amnesty International said human-rights abuses continue particularly against women, and harassment as well as physical assault remains rampant, notably at roadblocks.

Land mines and unexploded ordnance

It's not known for certain whether government or rebel forces employed land mines during the recent civil war. Stick to well-traveled roads, tracks and paths; never pick up any unidentified metal or plastic object.

Crime in Abidjan has reached a critical level. "Grab-and-run" street crime is widespread, and pickpockets are active in crowded areas. Foreigners often are targeted because of their perceived wealth. If confronted by a thief, don't resist; criminals are likely to be armed and will respond with deadly force. In February 2007, a French diplomat was shot dead in his home in Abidjan--the circumstances have never been made clear.

Exercise particular caution during times of civil unrest, as criminals sometimes take advantage of the chaos.

Theft of passports is common at airports, so safeguard your travel documents.

Petty crime

Beware of a scam at the Felix Houphouet-Boigny Airport in which someone offers to expedite passport and/or customs clearances in exchange for payment. There's no need to pay for such services. Another scam involves bogus greeters, so ask for proper identification from anyone who meets you at the airport.

Violent crime

Armed carjackings and robberies of individuals and businesses are on the rise and are increasingly brazen; police officers and facilities also have been robbed. Typical armed robberies involve a group of three or four young men who enter a restaurant, pharmacy or other location and steal valuables from everyone present.

Travelers displaying jewelry and carrying cameras are especially at risk. It is particularly dangerous to visit the Treichville, Adjame, Abobo and Youpougon districts in Abidjan after dark. The De Gaulle and Houphouet-Boigny bridges, which cross the lagoon in Abidjan, are dangerous areas for pedestrians, even in the daytime. Cars stuck in traffic on the bridges during rush hour also are targeted. Japanese-made four-wheel-drive vehicles are favored targets, but theft of smaller vehicles is common as well.

Move about in a group, rather than alone. Many hotels, restaurants, nightclubs and supermarkets provide security guards to protect clients and their vehicles.

To reduce the risk of carjacking, avoid driving alone, especially at night. Keep an eye on persons and vehicles in the vicinity of your vehicle at all times, particularly when stopped at intersections or crosswalks. When driving, try to stay near the center lanes when possible. Always try to leave sufficient maneuvering room between your car and the cars beside and in front of you, especially when stopping in traffic. Check your rear-view mirror regularly to ensure you are not being followed. If you are, do not return to your hotel/residence. Proceed instead to a public place such as the front of a hotel or a police station; get out of the vehicle and seek assistance. Keep your windows rolled up and doors locked at all times. If you encounter a roadblock that does not appear to be manned by uniformed police or you notice a disturbance on the road ahead, turn around and use an alternate route. To minimize the chance of being trapped by a car pulling up behind you, do not pull into a driveway. Be prepared to drive away if you notice persons approaching your vehicle. Plan before you start your trip where you will go to seek assistance if a car attempts to block you or if you are prevented from reaching your destination.

White-collar crime

Commercial scams, prevalent throughout West Africa, also target foreign visitors in Cote d'Ivoire. Familiarize yourself with common scams. These may attempt to involve visitors in illegal activity that can result in arrest, extortion or bodily harm. The scams generally involve phony offers of outright money transfers or lucrative sales, or contracts with promises of large commissions or up-front payments. Avoid all such offers and deals.

In many cases, the criminal running the scam will not provide to the victim a fixed-line phone number as a contact point but only a cell-phone number. All cell-phone numbers in Cote d'Ivoire begin with 0.

Police effectiveness

A lack of training and resources hampers police ability to respond to crime. Avoid confrontations with police officers, who are not necessarily well-disciplined. Victims frequently are asked to provide money or supplies to officers in order to facilitate investigations.

Ill-disciplined security forces staffing official and unofficial checkpoints in Abidjan can be a problem. Motorists who refuse to pay bribes have been harassed, delayed and/or threatened with arrest. Police officers sometimes will fire into the air to make sure vehicles stop when ordered to do so.

If you're issued a ticket, it's legal to pay the fine to the police officer there by the side of the road; the amount shouldn't exceed that printed on the ticket.

Bribes
Be patient and civil and avoid provoking a confrontation with any official you encounter. Try to deal only with the person who seems to be in charge. If you're accused of some misdeed, ask if you can pay the "fine" on the spot. Overtly offering a bribe could make your situation worse. Instead, offer to make a "donation" to the official's organization for fuel, expenses or other needs.

Roads can be impassable during the rainy seasons: May-July and October-November in the north, July-October and March-May in the south. Harmattan winds may occur December-February, carrying dust and grit from the Sahara.

Flooding

Sewage-laced floodwaters contaminated wells in the city of Agboville in August 2007, leaving thousands of people without fresh water.

Currents and tides

Except at a few resorts, the ocean currents along Cote d'Ivoire's shore are powerful and dangerous, even for strong swimmers. Many people drown each year.

Avoid unpatrolled and unmarked beaches, and never swim alone. Alcohol is a common contributor to drowning deaths because it lowers body temperature and can reduce swimming ability, as well as impairing judgment. If caught in a rip current, swim parallel to the shore until the current eases and you can swim back to land. Always use a lifejacket or personal flotation device when boating or sailing.

Health care outside Abidjan is extremely limited.

Medical facilities

In Abidjan, a few privately run medical and dental facilities are adequate but do not fully meet modern standards. Good physicians can be found, although most speak only French. Pharmacies are well-stocked with medications produced in Europe, but newer drugs may not be available. Complicated or severe conditions or injuries are likely to require air evacuation from the country.

Diseases

Meningitis, HIV/AIDS, waterborne diseases, malaria and other tropical diseases, including yellow fever, are prevalent.

In December 2007, health authorities said that the parasitic disease river blindness or onchocerciasis--once thought to have been eradicated from Cote d'Ivoire--had re-emerged in some regions after years of armed conflict wiped out mechanisms for surveillance and control.

The disease is spread by the bite of infected black flies that carry immature larval forms of parasitic worms from human to human. Avoid river areas suspected to be harboring black flies and seek medical advice before travel.

Cholera outbreaks occur with some frequency.

The World Health Organization has confirmed several cases of avian influenza affecting domestic birds in two separate locations in Abidjan. No human infections or deaths have been reported.

Beware of an ongoing polio outbreak in Africa. Given that access to the rebel-held north of the country is difficult, the actual number of cases might be greatly in excess of the number reported.

At present there's no conclusive proof that avian flu can be transmitted from one human to another. Some health agencies are recommending that people visiting affected destinations should avoid direct contact with birds and ensure that any poultry products, including eggs, are fully cooked before eating them.

Mosquitoes carry many serious illnesses, including dengue fever, malaria and West Nile virus. To prevent bites and avoid infection, reduce the amount of exposed skin by wearing long sleeves, long pants, socks and shoes when you're outdoors. Use insect repellent containing deet on exposed skin. Avoid outdoor activities from dusk to dawn, the time when mosquitoes are most active.

Cholera is usually contracted after consuming contaminated water or food. In areas where the disease is endemic, visitors should take care not to consume untreated water (including ice) or eat undercooked or raw foods, especially fish or shellfish. Stick to beverages and ice that are made from boiled or chlorinated water or that are carbonated. Foods that are cooked and served hot are usually safe. Fruits and vegetables that you wash with clean water and peel yourself also are generally safe. Don't assume that food and beverages served on airline flights, trains or vessels departing from affected areas are safe--items served on board the aircraft may have been locally obtained and could be contaminated. Seek medical assistance if you think you may have been exposed.

Additional information

Toxic waste was dumped into Abidjan in September 2006, and concerns remain about the extent to which it has been cleaned up. The neighborhoods affected were Vridi, Anyama Road, Yopougon, Alepe, Pateau-Dokui and Akouedo. Fumes may have also spread to Koumassi, Marcory, Port-Bouet and Cocody. Seek medical attention if you develop breathing difficulties or eye/nose irritation while in Abidjan.

Travel throughout Cote d'Ivoire is dangerous, and there are numerous government- and rebel-controlled checkpoints along highways. Documents are checked and cash payments often demanded before motorists are allowed to proceed. Criminal street gangs also have taken advantage of the prevalence of roadblocks to erect their own barricades; there, they attempt to extort money, food and/or other items. Avoid roadblocks to the extent possible.

Use of all access roads to major towns in government-controlled areas is prohibited 10 pm-6 am. The ban applies to Abidjan, Yamoussoukro, San Pedro and all other major towns in the south.

Road conditions

The road system is in generally poor condition. Automobile accidents are one of the greatest threats to visitors in Cote d'Ivoire. Night driving is particularly hazardous because of poor lighting on roads and vehicles. Drivers are not well-trained, and vehicles often are poorly maintained.

Public transportation

Taxis and buses are in poor mechanical condition and are not safe. There have been reports of lone women being robbed, even in official orange taxis.

In areas where crime on buses, subways or trains is a problem, stay alert at all times. Use only well-lighted, busy bus and subway stops. Try to sit near the driver or conductor, or in a car that contains several other passengers. Keep a good grip on your bag or purse. If you're carrying a cellular phone, keep it secure. Watch to see who gets off at the same time you do--if it's someone you feel is suspicious, go at once to the nearest public place and ask for help.

Air travel

During times of unrest, airports often are closed. Airlines in western Africa often overbook flights, so reconfirm your flight at least 72 hours in advance and have emergency funds available for food and accommodations in the event of unexpected delays.

Travelers' facilities in Abidjan are good, but accommodations outside the capital are limited in quality and availability. Credit cards are accepted in hotels, restaurants and some stores in Abidjan but may not be accepted elsewhere. If you use your card, note the increasing incidence of fraud. ATMs are available in Abidjan, but most accept only Visa cards.

Cote d'Ivoire faces regular disruptions to the power supply as hydroelectric output dwindles and gas supplies dry up. The country draws 70% of its energy needs from gas, with its three thermal power stations linked directly to gas fields by pipelines. There is currently not enough natural gas to power the thermal generators.

A three-year shortage of rainfall has kept hydroelectric power stations from running at maximum output. The rainy seasons boost hydroelectric supply, and there are plans to boost gas supplies.

No matter how safe you perceive a destination to be, it's important to use good judgment.

• Pay attention to local media.
• Avoid open displays of wealth, jewelry or other valuables. Safeguard travel documents such as passports and airline tickets.
• Avoid confrontations with locals.
• Avoid demonstrations and protests, especially if they appear political in nature.
• Don't permit people you don't know to enter your accommodations. Keep your door locked. Don't leave valuables in your room unless they can be locked in a safe.
• Avoid illegal drugs, and don't drink alcohol if its use is prohibited. Even if drinking is legal, don't overindulge.
• Be cautious of unsolicited offers of assistance from strangers.

In recent years, political terrorism has become a global phenomenon - an attack could occur with little warning anywhere in the world, even in destinations long regarded as safe. Travelers should keep themselves informed of developments that could affect their safety, no matter what their destination.