
Built in the 1990s, Sarova Shaba Lodge lies in Shaba National Reserve, an eastern extension of the Samburu-Buffalo Springs National Reserve, from which it is divided by the misleadingly named and spectacularly rutted Trans-Africa Highway as it runs north of Isiolo town.
About 8 km from the main road and 2 km from the reserve entrance gate, the lodge is set in large green grounds fed by gushing freshwater springs on the south bank of the near-perennial Ewaso Nyiro River.
Shaba is strongly associated with Joy Adamson (of Born Free fame), who raised several orphaned big cat cubs at a site adjacent to the present-day lodge, and the reserve was more recently the setting of African series of the popular TV show Survivor.
The lodge is entered via a long shady driveway and parking area through lush acacia forest that come as a pleasant contrast to the surrounding
semi-arid plains. The reception area is a large partially open building with a makuti (thatch) roof, stone floor and ethnic African decor, and it houses a reasonable gift shop and business center with Internet access.
Between the reception and the river, the restaurant consists of an open-sided stilted wood platform with a thatch roof and views to the river and into the tree canopies. Below this, on the ground floor, is an open-air cocktail bar alive with birdsong.
The pool bar supplements the cocktail bar, and the pool itself boasts two islets reached by bridges. There is a small riverside massage tent and salon.
As with other safari lodges, the main attraction is game drives. For top wildlife viewing, it's best to head back across the main road to Buffalo Springs, which harbors high densities of Grevy's zebra, reticulated giraffe, Beisa oryx and other "northern
Kenya specials," as well as lion and elephant.
Game drives in Shaba itself tend to yield less wildlife but the low tourist volumes create a real sense of wilderness. Bird-watching is good in both reserves, as well as in the lodge grounds, from where you are also likely to see giant crocs basking on the riverbanks and baboons and monkeys making mischief on the lawn.
Accommodations are in double-story blocks consisting of eight rooms each, strung in a line about 20 meters back from the river. The rooms are spacious, with varnished stone floors, roughly plastered walls and large windows on both sides.
Although the views are good, the rooms have no usable balconies and rather dark. Rooms have a king-sized or twin bed with walk-in netting, bedside table and lamps above the pillow, coffeemakers, fan, wooden writing desk, wardrobe and table with two chairs, and cheerful ethnic
decor.
The large tiled en suite baths have a combination baths and shower (good water pressure) and marble sink. There is no hair dryer or safe.
Sarova Shaba is the most remote and attractive of the larger lodges servicing the Samburu-Buffalo Springs area, thanks mainly to the exceptionally attractive gardens and riverside location.
The service and buffet meals are to a very high standard, and the setting feels pleasantly off-the-beaten-track by comparison the main cluster of lodges in Samburu itself.
For lodging in this area, this place is highly recommended and offers a better-than-average value.