Latvia's capital, Riga, celebrated its 800th anniversary in 2001. For its anniversary, many of its buildings were restored. Interestingly, one of the most important architects who contributed to the heavy Jugendstil or modern cityscape of Riga in the early 20th century was Mikhail Eisenstein, the father of a famous Soviet film director, Sergei Eisenstein.
Latvia's capital and main port (pop. 747,000) is a beautiful city with an almost German ambience and the bustle of a true metropolis. The oldest buildings are influenced by German and Swedish architectural styles, and Soviet-epoch concrete buildings dot the cityscape, as well.
Start your tour in the architecturally diverse Old Town (note the wonderful gargoyles, bas-reliefs and friezes). The ancient section is small and easy to see on foot: It's separated from the rest of the city by canals. Enter along Brivibas (Freedom) Boulevard. Just before reaching Old Town, you'll see the towering Freedom Monument, erected in 1935 as a symbol of independence and inexplicably left in place by the invading Soviets. (They did, however, erect a statue of Lenin just down the block, which has since been removed.) It's said that the statute of the Goddess of Liberty (called Milda) on top of the monument is modeled after a woman who still lives near Daugavpils. The clock next to the monument has traditionally been a popular meeting point for couples.
Other architectural highlights of Riga include the Swedish Gate, Gunpowder Tower, St. Peter's Cathedral (the steeple offers magnificent views of the city) and Riga Castle, which contains three museums, including one that details the nation's history. The castle also serves as the president's palace. Dom Cathedral, one of the largest churches in the Baltic states, has a 7,000-pipe organ and is the site of various organ festivals. It's currently being reconstructed.
We also enjoyed the open-air Ethnography Museum (more than 90 traditional Latvian homes), which is a bit far away from the city center and the Latvian Art Academy (a nice collection of art-nouveau works housed in a beautiful Gothic building). Riga's Central Market, one of the largest in Europe, is housed in five former Zeppelin hangars from World War I.
One of the most interesting museums in Old Riga is the Riga History and Navigation Museum, located in the Dome complex. It explores Latvia's close association with the sea and shipbuilding through exhibits of navigational instruments, maps, and old and modern ship models.
If you're near the Ministry of the Interior, take a walk through the park across from the Ministry, which contains several stones dedicated to those killed on 20 January 1991 when Soviet Black Berets stormed the building. Their actions unwittingly helped to hasten Latvian independence by turning sentiment against the Soviet Union. For more about life during the Soviet period, visit the Occupation Museum. It officially covers the Nazi occupation as well as the Soviet occupation, but the majority of the exhibits focus on Soviet atrocities.
There is a strong tradition of opera in Riga—opera lovers should not miss a performance in the National Opera building (known as the White House). Automobile lovers should visit the Motor Museum, which has a facade modeled after the radiator of a Rolls Royce. Day trips can easily be made to the zoo, located on the lakeside, to Sigulda or to the seaside villages of Jurmala.
