This hotel, an alum-white 18th-century residence pinned with a sapphire-blue door, in the center of the medina, represents a sizable chapter in the contemporary history of this ancient North African port, now a tranquil seaside resort for international escapists. In the 1960s and early 1970s, when the hotel was known as the Hotel du Pasha, its enchanting central courtyard and dim incense-filled salons drew a clientele of mainly notorious cultural outlaws: Jimi Hendrix, William S. Burroughs and Frank Zappa, to name but a few. (The Jefferson Airplane's bacchanalian fetes with RCA's ad money are legendary.) Hazy memories might be all that is left of those celebrated moments, but the opening of Hotel Riad al Madina has sparked a match that is lighting the way for a new generation of travelers with their own revolutionary ideas. Retired couples, adventurous travelers and budget-minded wanderers all make their way to the front door here.
This hotel is less refined and a whole lot funkier than elegant Villa Maroc, and guests here are just as likely to be unpacking backpacks as suitcases, thanks to mindful attention to the basement bargain rates. The staff at the tiny reception desk offers arrivals check-in with smiles and cups of mint tea, although efforts to assist with luggage and other common niceties are unceremoniously skipped. Beyond, the inviting vine-strung central courtyard, with its potted palms, furnishings upholstered in colorful carpet scraps, and exposed interior balconies, acts as the lounge, bar, breakfast room and social center for guests and Essaouira's bohemian expatriate community.
Each evening visitors gather for cocktails, or just sit and relax in the dreamy light of large handmade candles and traditional Moroccan lanterns. A hushed overtone of conversation fills the breezy air, as does the scent of the floral blossoms surrounding the space. The restaurant and bar are located in a large bay just off the main courtyard. Diners are seated in a lazy winding maze of rooms fitted with built-in adobe benches and custom-made iron seating. Some of the tables are too low, forcing guests to lean like cattle to a trough. The traditional Moroccan fare is renowned in this town, and even guests are requested to reserve a table for dinner. Breakfast is also served here or on the patios.
A small bar, heated pool and 24 new rooms have recently been carved out of the ruins of a neighboring residence. A hammam soothes tired muscles, and aromatherapy massages can be arranged.
Accommodations vary dramatically in size and layout, with a few standards measuring little more than the width and depth of their single beds. (Above all, avoid tiny Room 7.) Two double rooms are equally cramped, with space enough for just two twin beds and two pairs of ankles (18 is the worst offender in this setup). All the remaining quarters are fairly proportioned and offer unique layouts, including duplexes and triplexes. All units are realized in a style that can be described as North African modern—picture a Moroccan souk washing up on California's Venice Beach. Welded, rusting metal frames hold mirrors that reflect each room's bright, sponge-painted stucco walls, colorful fabrics, queen and paired twin beds, and custom-made rugs over terra-cotta tile floors. Things are kept to a high standard, although the cheaper the room, the less perfect the furnishings.
Essaouira has become something of a mecca for creative types, and works by local contemporary artists make appearances in each room. All are equipped with tiny TVs, phones, horribly firm mattresses, and mostly shower-only baths with limited toiletries. That said, 19 has a deep sculpted tub nearly the size of a plunge pool. Small windows and limited views make some of the guest quarters dark. Of the four units with large furnished terraces, 36 is at the top of the list, providing guests with a spacious living room and formal bar that can be staffed should entertaining be on the agenda. Unit 31 is a playfully decorated triplex, with a downstairs bath, upstairs bedroom and a roomy lounge in between. Those who get teary-eyed at the mention of Woodstock should book Room 11, where Band of Gypsy's ringleader Jimi Hendrix bunked way back when.
Soundproofing is nary a concern here, since many find the street noise and pushcart salespeople a charming reminder of the locale. Management and staff come together in a Summer-of-Love kind of way, providing a comfortable, casual, often far-out experience for hip visitors to this exotic destination. Unfortunately, a musty odor in rooms and overlooked attention to maintenance keep the neediest visitors at bay.
