The largest and most visited atoll in the Tuamotus, Rangiroa is, in fact, among the largest atolls in the world. It lies 185 mi/300 km northeast of Papeete. It consists of approximately 240 thin motu, or islets, that completely surround an enormous lagoon measuring 42 mi/67 km long by 14 mi/22 km wide. The name Rangiroa comes from a Polynesian word that means "huge sky," and that's appropriate. The expanse of blue sky and blue water dominate. Any land you see is flat and covered by palm trees.
Though its stark scenery and quiet surroundings appeal to many, scuba divers are Rangiroa's biggest fans. This is French Polynesia's premier dive site, but it's primarily geared to advanced divers. The two main passes from the sea are at opposite ends of the airport island. Twice a day, as the tides rise and fall, strong currents flow through the Avatoru and Tiputa passes. The strong tidal currents that rush through the lagoon take divers on a thrill ride that shoots them past sharks—lots of sharks—as well as rays and a large variety of other sea life.
Beach fanatics will also like Rangiroa. Because virtually all of the land is on the water, there's no lack of unspoiled beaches and plenty of opportunities for shelling (delicate pieces of broken coral are everywhere). Perhaps the only minor drawback is that the beaches are coral gravel—those who demand endless stretches of smooth white sand will have to venture out to more distant motus. On the other hand, the seclusion and clear, colorful water more than compensate. The island is sunny, hot and dry, which means a greater chance of a blistering tropical sunburn. Take along a broad-brimmed hat and plenty of sunscreen.
The atoll's residents live in two villages, Avatoru (near many of the hotels and pensions) and Tiputa (on a nearby islet). The airstrip is near Avatoru. Because the land is actually a series of separated islands, most transportation is by boat. It's a good place to secure yourself at a well-appointed resort and rely on its staff to handle the details of getting about. Most visitors plan three nights, and that should be sufficient unless you're a dive fanatic. Those who don't dive and aren't fond of lazing by the water may want to skip Rangiroa.
Just west of Rangiroa is Tikehau, a smaller coral atoll. Home to one of the Pearl Beach Resort hotels, Tikehau offers many of the same features as Rangiroa, on a smaller, more secluded scale.
