Near Bora Bora and Huahine in the Society group, 135 mi/220 km northwest of Papeete, Raiatea is a large and tall volcanic island whose central mountains reach heights of 3,350 ft/1,000 m. (Mount Temehani is the highest point—be sure to see its radiant
tiare apetahi flowers.) Its twin island, Tahaa, sits just across a mile-/kilometer-wide lagoon. Despite its size, Raiatea has less to offer visitors than do Tahaa and nearby Huahine and Bora Bora. Its central location and large lagoon have made it popular with yachters, however. Those chartering a boat to cruise the Society Islands may well begin and end their trip there.
Uturoa is the largest town on Raiatea and the second largest in French Polynesia, but it offers relatively little to do. In an effort to make the island more appealing to tourists, especially those arriving by cruise ship, the government built a port area with a palm-lined promenade, a man-made white-sand beach and a few upscale boutiques. Try to visit on a market day (Wednesday and Friday mornings are best), when the whole island turns out to shop and trade and greet the commercial freighters delivering and picking up goods. The island has a large Chinese population, and many of them operate stores that carry T-shirts, sandals, pareu cloth, liquor, canned foods and other staples.
Rent a car, bicycle or scooter to explore the 50 mi/80 km of partially paved coastal road. The primary sight is Marae Taputapuatea. At the time of European contact, this was the most sacred marae in all of Polynesia. When new ceremonial sites were constructed on other islands, a stone from Taputapuatea would be incorporated in their designs.
Neighboring Tahaa Island is sometimes referred to as Vanilla Island because of its many vanilla plantations. A shuttle boat operates between Uturoa and Tahaa with several trips a day Monday-Friday. Water taxis are also available. Tahaa is even more low-key than Raiatea. Visitors should plan to relax, then relax some more.
