
Southwest of the island's small airport, this place at first looks like a rough-hewn hideout overgrown with palms and sea grape. In reality, it hides some of the best food, niftiest lodging and friendliest people in the Caymans. The owner, a real hoot from Texas, likes to adopt her guests, and her crew is a helpful bunch. This get-away-from-it-all diver's paradise embraces nature, offering guests plenty of hammocks slung between trees.
The property encompasses three hectares of wild white-sand beaches with sea grapes, affording as much privacy as anyone could want. A new effort to be more environmentally conscious is prompting changes including reducing water usage and conserving energy. The buildings are all octagonal, including the office-lobby, dining room and bar; this design protects against hurricane-force winds.
Adjacent to the lobby, an octagonal dining room is cozy with a fireplace. The kitchen is always open and turns out superb food of the freshest caliber. The young chef is a gem, and he rarely repeats menus. Breakfast buffets and dinner are served in the dining room, whereas lunch is taken outside on picnic tables. The homey bar, done up with driftwood, has the only TV and VCR here, as well as a climbing pole topped with a bell. Guests who climb the pole and ring the bell get a bottle of champagne.
Shelves spill over with paperback books for guests to enjoy. The newly renovated freshwater pool and 10-person whirpool shimmer in a concrete deck. The well-equipped dive operation has four instructors and a boat, and the sites are spectacular. Internet access is limited to the club house, and a pricey surcharge is imposed.
In the spacious cottages, jalousies take up half the walls, allowing marvelous sea breezes to waft through. Fresh paint in all and renovated baths in half are among the latest improvements. The rooms include air conditioners and ceiling fans, rattan tables and chairs, one king or two twin beds, and decks. Phones and TVs are noticeably missing, but new mattresses and bed linens add comfort for a good night's rest. Closets hold more paperbacks, and the large shower-only baths focus on water conservation. Interior decor is not the strong point here, but most guests keep their eyes focused on nature.
Most rooms are large enough for families, and six are double cottages close to the sea. Children ages 6 to 12 stay free with parents, but those under 5 are not permitted. Small pets are permitted.
Housekeeping is provided daily, but room service is not an option. This place does not have many elegant touches to go with its stunning views. Catering to divers, the hotel books only four nondivers at any one time, and most rates are by the week only. Management conducts regular maintenance during the annual closure usually in September and October. The great number of returnees makes it hard to book here (especially for the popular beachfront cottages), but be persistent, because it is worth it, and be prepared to be part of the family. The staff is adept at winning fans.