Located on a narrow strip of land on the southern coast between the Caribbean Sea and the Great Salt Pond, Philipsburg wraps around Great Bay, a lovely natural harbor that's too shallow for large ships. The town itself is only three blocks wide, its main streets running parallel to the water.
Cyrus Wathey Square is always packed with people, tourists and residents alike (the air is often punctuated by a blaring boom box or two). Across from the square is the green-and-white wooden courthouse. Built in 1793, it was originally the home of Commander John Philips, the founder of Philipsburg. The structure has since housed the fire station, the jail, the town hall and the post office (but never a church, which it resembles).
The Pasanggrahan Hotel at the eastern end of Front Street, is St. Maarten's oldest inn and was frequented by Queen Wilhelmina of the Netherlands (phone 542-3588; http://www.pasanhotel.com). A few blocks away is the St. Maarten Museum, which occupies a house built in the 1890s. Through changing exhibits, the small second-floor museum relates the history of the island from its earliest days to the present. The museum shop sells local art, books and an excellent collection of maps of the island and the Eastern Caribbean. Monday-Friday 10 am-4 pm, Saturday 10 am-noon. US$1. 7 Front St. Phone 542-2970.
Fort Amsterdam, the first Dutch fort built in the Caribbean, sits atop the peninsula that separates Great Bay from Little Bay. To get there, follow the trail from the west end of Front Street up and over the hill to Little Bay. Only a cannon or two and a few walls remain, but historically this was Philipsburg's most important bastion. It was built in 1631, but captured by the Spaniards two years later. Although the fort's military importance has definitely waned, the views over Great Bay remain spectacular.
Fort Willem, which also guarded Philipsburg from enemy attack, is near the western end of town (look for the television transmission tower). Even though little of the fort still exists, the view of Philipsburg and beyond to the neighboring islands makes it worth the half-hour trek up the dirt road opposite the entrance to the Great Bay Hotel. Be aware that the drive to the top is treacherous—it's better to walk if you have the time and energy.
The most spectacular views on the Dutch side, especially at sunset, are from the observation platform on Cole Bay Hill, northwest of Philipsburg. If you drive up, you'll find a small parking lot. Across the water in one direction are the islands of Saba, St. Eustatius, Nevis and St. Barts. Simpson Bay is in the other direction, dotted with sailboats.
Plants and animals native to the Caribbean and South America, including ocelots and the raccoonlike coatimundi, are on display at the St. Maarten Zoo and Botanical Garden. There are two walk-through aviaries, a reptile collection, a bat cave, a petting zoo, orchid displays and shops offering refreshments and gifts at the 3-acre/1-hectare sanctuary. Daily 9 am-5 pm in the winter, 9:30 am-6 pm in the summer. US$5 adults, US$2 children. Madame Estate north of Philipsburg. Phone 543-2030. http://www.stmaartenpark.com.
