A glance at a map of North Carolina illustrates one of the state's most striking features: the long line of barrier islands that form much of the Atlantic Coast known as the Outer Banks. The islands are more than a geographical oddity, however: They're one of the best reasons to visit the state. This scenic place of undeveloped beaches, sand dunes, lighthouses and small resort towns is truly special.
The most northerly access to the islands is via Highway 158, which crosses from Point Harbor on the mainland to Bodie Island. If you follow the highway south, you'll pass the town of Kitty Hawk, and soon after, the Wright Brothers National Memorial. It commemorates the spot where, in 1903, Orville and Wilbur Wright made the first flight with a powered aircraft. (The site is actually closer to Kill Devil Hills than Kitty Hawk, though the latter town gets the glory for the Wright Brothers' accomplishment.) In celebration of the 100th anniversary of the flight in 2003, a bronze and steel sculpture of Orville in the plane, his brother Wilbur and a photographer was unveiled. Children are encouraged to climb on the piece, which is a work in progress. When finished, the monument will include all seven witnesses to the flight. Stop at the visitors center to see a replica of the first airplane, then visit the sites where the brothers flew and a re-creation of their workshop. Daredevil flyers are still found on the Outer Banks, by the way, but today they pilot hang gliders. One of the best spots to see them is at Jockey's Ridge State Park, south of Kill Devil Hills, which contains some incredibly high sand dunes that are perfect for launching the gliders.
Continuing south, you'll reach Nags Head, one of the prime resort towns on the Outer Banks. With a large number of motels, bed-and-breakfasts and vacation cottages, Nags Head is a popular base for exploring the area. Be aware, however, that the area's beauty attracts many travelers, and traffic can be quite heavy, particularly during peak vacation times. Just south of Nags Head, Highway 158 meets Highway 64, another route between the mainland and the barrier islands.
Turn west on Highway 64 to get to Roanoke Island, home of Fort Raleigh National Historic Site. This is the place where the famous Lost Colony was established in the 1580s and then mysteriously disappeared. The fort has been restored to stand as a vivid reminder of the dangers that early European settlers faced in North America. There's also a lovely Elizabethan garden near the fort, and in summer, you can see the long-running outdoor theatrical performance of The Lost Colony. At the nearby town of Manteo, you can see a replica of the type of boats that the first North Carolina colonists arrived in. Manteo is also the home of the North Carolina Aquarium at Roanoke Island, which focuses on aquatic creatures native to the state.
Return east to the barrier islands, and turn south on Highway 12. From there to Cape Lookout (about 115 mi/185 km of shoreline), the Outer Banks are primarily public lands, encompassed in the Cape Hatteras National Seashore and Cape Lookout National Seashore, as well as Pea Island National Wildlife Refuge. These preserves protect the islands from overdevelopment, allowing them to remain much as they were when Sir Walter Raleigh's colonists arrived. There are several towns along the way, however, which provide overnight accommodations and other services to visitors. The main ones, from north to south, are Buxton, Hatteras and Ocracoke. Camping is allowed on the national seashores, as are swimming, boating, surfing, horseback riding, sailing, hunting and fishing. Above all, we recommend just walking these magnificent shores and enjoying the surf, breeze, birds and other wildlife (keep an eye peeled for bottlenose dolphins).
The Outer Banks are often referred to as the Graveyard of the Atlantic because they have claimed more than 2,000 ships, from tankers to U-boats. The Graveyard of the Atlantic Museum (http://www.graveyardoftheatlantic.com) presents studies on the maritime history and shipwrecks of the North Carolina coast from centuries ago to the present day. The museum maintains exhibitions on piracy and warfare, explorations of commerce and transportation, as well as displays of artifacts. Divers—from beginners to the more advanced—will find intriguing underwater wrecks as well as an abundance of marine life. Lots of lighthouses were constructed to warn the ships, and many of the old beacons still shine their lights along the coast. All of them are now automated, but they're still striking landmarks. The black-and-white barber-pole stripes of the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse are particularly striking. Threatened by the rough waters of the Atlantic, the country's tallest (208 ft/63 m) lighthouse was moved inland about 2,900 ft/899 m over a 23-day period in 1999. Other beacons you can see along the way are the Currituck Beach Lighthouse, Bodie Island Lighthouse, Ocracoke Lighthouse and Cape Lookout Lighthouse.
Not all of the islands are connected by road. When driving south, the highway ends at Ocracoke. A ferry provides transportation across Pamlico Sound to Cedar Island, where Highway 12 resumes. Another option is to take a ferry from Ocracoke to Swan Quarter, useful for those heading to inland North Carolina. Be sure to make reservations for both of these ferries: They're very popular. The islands of Cape Lookout National Seashore (which begins south of Ocracoke Island) can only be reached by ferries. They depart from the towns of Atlantic (for Portsmouth Island), Williston (for Core Banks Island) and Harkers Island (for Cape Lookout). Just remember: Don't rush through the Outer Banks area—it's too memorable for that. The Outer Banks are 175 mi/280 km east of Raleigh.
