Think 1930s Paris, celebrity elbow-rubbing and seasonal bistro fare. It's crowded and cramped, but no one seems to mind. After all, this is the trendy Meatpacking District. The wine list is impressive, and the food is wonderful. Daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner, Saturday and Sunday for brunch, late-night supper starting at midnight. Reservations recommended. $$. Most major credit cards. 9 Ninth Ave., at Little West 12th Street (subway line L to Eighth Avenue; A, C, E, 1, 2 or 3 to 14th Street), Manhattan, New York City. Phone 212-929-4844. http://www.pastisny.com.
