
One of the pioneer beach hotels here, this property is the keeper of the flame of the Negril lifestyle known before the advent of the formulaic all-inclusive behemoths. One of the livelier resorts here, this place captures Negril's essence with an unpretentious ambience that has guests wearing their skimpiest swimsuits around the clock.
The secured parking lot makes a poor and heartless introduction to this resort, but the open-air lobby sports well-worn but welcoming soft sofas, swing chairs and tropical murals. The casual open-air restaurant specializes in Jamaican fare, seafood and, strangely, pizza. Guests rave about the conch shell, jerk chicken and fried sweet plantains. Perched on the second-floor terrace above reception, this dining room is romantically candlelit at night. A beach grill fires up weekly for an all-comers' barbecue, and the morning breakfast buffet is an appreciated perk. Two bars concoct all types of bright tropical grog, and this operation's name derives from the upstairs bar that wraps around a tree and is the social center.
Almost as big a deal as the bars here are volleyball and watersports. Locals stroll along the sands selling everything from beads to weed, often settling in at a second beach bar that serves those guests choosing to lounge on the furnished beach. The beach was shortened by Hurricane Ivan in 2004, so the hotel and hammock-slinging palms just about have their toes in the water. Next to the sand are a teardrop freshwater pool and a whirlpool ringed by umbrella-shaded chaise longues, and the beach-volleyball court proves popular. A masseuse and manicurist operate here, and a tour desk, gift shops, and basic meeting space for 60 people and free wireless Internet access in the lobby round out the facilities.
Smallish accommodations are mostly in tin-roofed octagons strung with hammocks. Expect uneven quality. Most are modestly furnished with chipped and stained terrazzo floors (some were being renovated at inspection), ceiling fans assisting aging air conditioners, jalousies, phones, TVs, safes, and king, queen or twin beds. Terribly old fabrics drape uncomfortable beds, and cheap curtains dangle loosely as they have for decades. Fading artwork
is far more minimal than minimalist. The good-sized wedge-shaped baths are clean, except for some with minor plumbing problems. Upper-level rooms are preferred for their peaked ceilings, but better still are the one- and two-bedroom waterfront villas with kitchenettes, king and Murphy beds, and furnished verandas fronting the sands.
Soundproofing is a disgrace, and rowdy crowds celebrating the night often disrupt the sound sleep of others (thankfully, pets are not allowed). Room service stops at 11 pm. The American owner is a charmer, and she draws a steadfast clientele from the urban eastern U.S. Most guests leave here pleased, but the demanding may get irritated with the lax maintenance and lackadaisical staffers. This place is popular with the spring-break crowd and Jamaican holidaygoers who prefer the clarity of the turquoise water to the certainty of a top-notch resort. The Charela Inn does a far better job of providing a reliable bang for your buck.