Off Route 3, 3 miles from town and 80 miles north of Concord, this classic, turn-of-the-century retreat lay dormant for decades until its 2002 comeback. Visible for miles, the sprawling, amber-toned, all-season resort has proven itself as one of the best full-service resorts in the state, competing with the likes of the time-tested White Mountain Resort in North Conway and the Mount Washington Hotel. In fact, with its variety of accommodations (most with views), golf course, spa and comprehensive meeting facilities, this establishment is arguably New Hampshire's best. However, service remains a sore spot, but finding dependable trained staff in this neck of the woods is a chore indeed.
This property evolved from an 1865 farmhouse, which became an inn in 1873. The current turreted, four-story complex, surrounded by a soon-to-be 18-hole golf course, dates from 1906. Historical photos dispersed throughout the public areas point to its heyday when it hosted presidents, princes and posh New Englanders. One
of the building's most notable features is its rambling, wicker-furnished porch, where guests can relax and enjoy the famed mountain views.
In a tribute to the hotel's glory days, smartly dressed valets and bellhops await arrivals at the wide entrance paved with the region's famed gray granite. Inside, the lobby is a forest of Doric columns that provide numerous private sitting areas, furnished with stylish, custom wicker wingbacks and leather loveseats. The smiling, hospitable staff speeds guests through formalities at an old-fashioned reception desk. Beyond, a pianist livens up the mood each afternoon. A lovely paneled library provides an informal retreat, with chess and backgammon tables and the hotel's ubiquitous bucolic vistas.
Dining options have been juggled around since last inspection, with three venues now serving up a selection of mostly American fare. The Main Dining 
Room has a less-than-imaginative name, but the contemporary American menu deserves attention. Fancy pub grub is available at The Tavern, and an elaborate former ballroom is set up for Sunday Brunch. The service and wine list could be better, but prices are reasonable. Guests can also take light meals and cocktails at the clubhouse, located at the golf course.
A well-rounded spa with exotic health and beauty treatments is the focal point of the activity roster. Tennis, golf, a game room, gym, sauna, whirlpool, and indoor and outdoor pools also keep guests busy. The hotel is fast becoming a popular meeting venue, offering modern space for up to 460 people. Ample business services are available, a small sundries shop is on-site, and parking is free.
Accommodations vary considerably, running the gamut from small to spacious. Units are graded in eight categories, but all are 
exceptionally well appointed and provide the most tastefully decorated digs in any large hotel in New Hampshire. Rich textured fabrics, carpeting and window treatments add a luxurious touch to these traditionally decorated guest quarters. Two-poster beds, botanical prints, brass lamps and quality reproduction federal-period furnishings show well. TVs are hidden in armoires, phones with data ports sit atop desks, and digital clocks top bedside tables. Minibars are missing, but closets hold irons and ironing boards. Lavish baths feature marble and expensive Kohler fittings, hair dryers and toiletries. Housekeeping does a commendable job. Room service stops at 10 pm. Pets are not permitted.
The hotel's spa and golf course supply many guests with their reason to stay here, but the dearth of nearby attractions can provide more downtime activities than many guests might expect.
