
Set in a landmark structure on a hill facing Mount Washington, this fine New England retreat is a grand historic property whose best days have come and gone. The current owners strive to keep its spirit alive, if only with partial success. Built in 1902, this is New Hampshire's most famous hotel: It hosted the Bretton Woods Monetary Conference in 1944. These days, it is the most elegant of this resort's trio of hotels that includes the modest Bretton Arms Country Inn and the Lodge. This place hosts skiers and outdoors folk who want a little civility in the severe White Mountains.
Common areas and guest rooms receive ongoing refurbishment, but more effort appears to be exerted throughout the massive grounds, which are well tended and, in summer, a photographer's dream. A mile-long driveway
leads to a pillared porte cochere and a 900-ft white-railed veranda. Inside, antiques remind visitors of bygone days when presidents, poets and princes plied these grounds.
Four-course dinners to the strains of a small orchestra are still served in the opulent, oval, formal dining room where jackets are required after 6 pm. Lunch is taken in a coffee shop that feels like a busy ski-lodge cafeteria.
For recreation, the hotel offers 12 clay tennis courts, nine- and 18-hole golf courses, heated indoor and outdoor pools, a sauna and hiking trails. Children have their own program. The resort has partnered with the International Mountain Climbing School and now offers
family rock-climbing classes. A new golf pro, Michael Carroll from Pinehurst, North Carolina, joined the resort in early 2008 and aims to return the resort's two courses to championship standards with a $7 million golf restoration and expansion project.
Meeting space for 100 people is frequently full to capacity, and business services are offered. Parking is free of charge.
The large guest rooms have high ceilings, area rugs on wood floors, varied bed arrangements and combination baths. TVs are standard issue, with VCRs on request. The smallest rooms offer little space to maneuver around the queen beds and are not worth the price; those who cannot afford a better
room here should opt for lodging at one of the sibling properties, which allow access to this hotel's amenities. That said, Superior rooms are vast and have value.
Room service operates in conjunction with the restaurant. Guests with disabilities are easily accommodated. Pets are not allowed here, but they are at the Bretton Arms.
Young, energetic staffers help soften the affectations of the old-timers who still believe this is a world-class resort. It isn't The Greenbrier or Pinehurst, but with this location, it doesn't have to be.