At the foot of Table Mountain, near the best nightlife area, this hotel is in a magnificent pink structure surrounded by little satellite hotels such as the Greenpark and the Helmsley, which have been incorporated into the operation, and it reeks of nearly vanished colonial elegance. It first opened in 1899, and in sharp contrast to the constrained urban boxes near the waterfront, the 9 acres of grounds here are extensive enough for long walks. The attentiveness of the personnel and the richness of the appointments conspire to create a feeling of exclusivity and elegance—with a reputation that certainly precedes itself.
Beyond the creaky lobby is an ornate piano lounge where the renowned afternoon tea is served, with chintz-swathed wingback chairs to provide appropriate comfort under chandeliers. The sun porch beyond charms guests with its bamboo furniture and lazy ceiling fans. Plants imbue the place with luscious aromas that waft onto a tree-shaded patio graced with wrought-iron furniture, overlooking a dramatic fountain. The filtered view from the gardens is of the city, the mountains and, in the distance, the ocean.
The Cape Colony restaurant serves a mix of southern European and Western Cape dishes in a fine-dining atmosphere, accompanied by the best South African wines. The Oasis
restaurant boasts its own versatile in-house bakery. It serves excellent buffet meals during the day and inspired a la carte selections at night, and its outdoor perch overlooking the pool is a magical place, especially at sunset.
Previously, there was nothing about this palm-ringed hostelry that was not utterly proper, so management opened Planet, one of the city's hottest nightspots, to shake things up a bit and attract a younger clientele. This glamorous, cream and beige watering hole still gives a nod to the classic styling of the hotel, but adds designer barstools and an abstract ceiling mobile that gets conversations revved up. Drawing more champagne sippers than the mix-and-stir crowd, this popular bar caters to an international clientele.
The plastic chaises around the heated oval pool don't exactly scream luxury, but it makes them easy to move around the large lawn and palm tree area to catch the sun. Tennis and squash await day and night, and the gym and second heated pool are free to guests. The spa, upon completion, will follow Victorian tradition in both structure and function with an herbal treatment menu and sublime decor. A separate entrance will facilitate access to locals who respect the home-spun reputation of this grande dame.
Renovated conference space seats more than 500, and the business center offers full services. Wireless Internet access is available (for a fee) in public areas. There are 500 parking spaces, and room for a half-dozen tour buses.
No two guest rooms are exactly alike, and in all, there are 20 different categories spread over seven buildings complete with their own private gardens and facilities. All are beautifully appointed with fine traditional fabrics and furniture in creams and whites (many blossom into full floral prints). Outside the main building, they run large and come with tasteful furnishings, antiques, TVs with VCRs in pop-up cabinets, high-speed Internet (both wired and wireless for a fee), safes, minibars and hair dryers. Smart English chintzes are used throughout, and some rooms have crown molding and draped canopies over the beds. The main building is the least modern, though most baths supply robes and slippers and have stall showers.
The Helmsley is top-of-the-line, all deluxe and studio-grade rooms, and Oasis is newest and the most standardized. Baths at the Helmsley have larger showers, dual basins, WCs, scales, makeup mirrors and heated towel rails. The expensive cottages across the street have their own heated pool and individual rose gardens.
Room service is on call 24 hours a day, and the property goes out of its way in special situations, offering babysitting and kids' welcome kits for families, and escorts for women traveling alone. Even private yoga or Pilates classes and a ladies night at the bar cater to skittish female guests. Nonsmokers can request their own units, and two rooms are equipped for the handicapped. The Garden cottages are among the most requested by repeat guests.
Housekeeping does double duty to ensure impeccable upkeep, and as a result, pets are not allowed. The clientele includes many old-timers who return every year and many business guests and celebrities who wouldn't dream of staying anywhere else. A recent management focus on heightened environmental concerns should attract a greener crowd, although high rates will keep out anyone operating on a tight budget. This remains one of the most memorable hotels of the world and deservedly scores high on most "best of Africa" lists; one cannot go wrong with a stay here. That said, the Arabella Sheraton provides excellent views and a sleek ambience from which to explore the city.
