One of French Polynesia's "big three" tourism islands, Moorea sits right next door to Tahiti, 12 mi/20 km northwest of Papeete and just a five-minute flight from the international airport or a 20-minute ferry ride from Papeete's harbor. Despite their proximity, Moorea is quite different from the capital. There's no urban buildup (in fact, the populated areas are villages more than towns), and the large island absorbs its many visitors with few signs of stress. With a turquoise lagoon, several bays and steep mountains, it ranks with Bora Bora in the looks department. All in all, it's a terrific place to spend three nights, though many devote a week or more to the island.
A variety of sights are scattered around the island. Plan to take the better part of a day to circle the coastal road and make a visit to the interior. Lots of tour companies are available to take you to the highlights if you don't want to drive yourself.
Be sure to take the winding road up to the Belvedere Lookout, which begins at the foot of Cook's Bay, one of Moorea's two large inlets. Cook's Bay features many small restaurants and hotels, while Opunohu Bay is more unspoiled: The 1984 remake of The Bounty was filmed there. The Belvedere offers a panoramic view of both of Moorea's bays as well as the mountains surrounding them. On the way up or down, you can stop at several ancient marae that have been excavated from the underbrush. Some of the sites were once used for archery competitions.
On the west side of Cook's Bay, look for the turnoff to the Moorea Distillery and Fruit Juice Factory. There's really no tour to speak of—it's mostly an elaborate gift shop where you can taste and purchase the company's liqueurs and liquors. Lots of other souvenir merchandise is available, as well.
As the road loops around Opunohu Bay, you'll pass the Kellum Stop, a botanical garden. It's the remains of what was once an immense estate owned by a U.S. businessman. Guided tours are conducted only in the mornings Tuesday-Saturday and need to be arranged in advance. Beyond Opunohu Bay, the road reaches the busy Hauru Point area, where several resorts are located, as well as a string of shops, restaurants, and bike abd car rental offices. From there, the road heads down the island's west coast. Tiki Village Theater is the main attraction in this stretch. It's a Polynesian theme park of sorts, with traditional-style buildings and craft demonstrations. Elaborate dinner and dance shows take place there several nights a week. Farther south, at Haapiti, make a stop at the pretty Catholic church on the inland side of the road.
The southern curve of the island is dotted with small villages populated by locals more than visitors. You may see children surfing just offshore. Over on the island's east coast, near the village of Afareaitu, are two tall waterfalls. You can see them from the main road, but if you want to get closer, you need to head inland along some rough roads, then hike. Those on organized jeep tours will have an easier time getting there, especially if there has been a lot of rain.
Scuba diving, snorkeling and trips aboard submersible craft are popular on Moorea. Most resorts have excursions and facilities available. Tiahura at the west end of Moorea has the island's longest beach, plus an offshore snorkeling area where you can swim with manta rays. Try to find a lagoon excursion that includes a trip to feed the rays; they're accustomed to being fed and will swim up to you for their snack. A Dolphin Encounter is offered at the Moorea Beachcomber. Participants get to interact with the animals in an enclosed pool. If you prefer to see dolphins in their natural surroundings, check into the boat trips conducted by Dr. Michael Poole, a renowned dolphin expert based on the island. Dr Poole and several other companies also lead whale-watching and sometimes swimming-with-whale tours May-October when humpbacks swim close to the fringing exterior reef.