The island of Martha's Vineyard, nearly 7 mi/11 km from the New England coast, is covered with windswept moors, dense forests, dramatic coastal cliffs and soft sandy beaches. Though relatively small, Martha's Vineyard is made up of six distinctly different towns, each with its own unique personality and beauty. Such pockets of individualism have always been part of the Martha's Vineyard character, and that is a large portion of its appeal. Oak Bluffs is colorful and somewhat frivolous (on Illumination Night in August residents hang Chinese lanterns out of every window of their homes); Edgartown is more sedate and stately, its wealthy whaling legacy giving it a regal air; Vineyard Haven is the industrious and very busy sibling, serving as the island's year-round port. Farther out in Chilmark, West Tisbury and Aquinnah, commercialism gives way to rambling farms, stunning vistas and a much more peaceful way of life.
The island's visitors are just as varied. Martha's Vineyard has long been a place of escape—a healthful retreat with an independent, creative air. It's a favorite among celebrities, who find it a welcome respite from the demands of fame. Martha's Vineyard is also home to many artists and writers who gain inspiration from its rich history and the sheer natural beauty of the place.
Sights—Oak Bluffs Camp Ground; Felix Neck Wildlife Sanctuary; Long Point Wildlife Refuge; sunset from Aquinnah Lighthouse (formerly Gay Head Light).
Museums—Whaling history at the Foster Maritime Gallery.
Memorable Meals—Lola's; Lambert's Cove; Bittersweet Restaurant.
Late Night—Excellent celebrity-sighting and great entertainment at Outerland; loud, raucous fun at Oak Bluffs' Atlantic Connection; New Orleans-flavored dancing and music at Lola's.
Walks—A stroll through downtown Edgartown or the Oak Bluffs Camp Ground Area.
Especially for Kids—Flying Horses Carousel; fun, educational nature programs at Oak Bluffs' Felix Neck Wildlife Sanctuary.
The island of Martha's Vineyard is roughly 7 mi/11 km south of mainland Massachusetts. A glacially formed combination of rolling hills, cliffs, salt marshes and sand, the island measures approximately 20 mi/32 km long and 9 mi/14 km wide. Visitors will often hear the nautical terms "up-island" (westward) and "down-island" (eastward). As a result, the eastern towns—Edgartown, Vineyard Haven and Oak Bluffs—are lumped into the "down-island" category. The towns to the west and south—West Tisbury, Chilmark and Aquinnah—are considered "up-island."
The island's recorded history began in 1602, when Bartholomew Gosnold claimed the island for the British crown, calling it Martha's Vineyard for both his baby daughter and the wild grapes growing on the land. The native Wampanoags called their island "Noepe," meaning "island in the stream." Under a grant to Thomas Mayhew in 1642, the first European settlers arrived in what would become Edgartown. Primarily farmers and fishermen, the newcomers were greatly aided by the peaceful natives, who shared their knowledge of the land, including the whaling skills that would eventually make a fortune for the settlers. When whaling moved out to sea, the island's economy flourished, as the many grand mansions lining the streets of Edgartown and Vineyard Haven now prove.
Martha's Vineyard's reputation as a popular resort began when a group of Methodists chose the Oak Bluffs area in 1835 for its weeklong camp meetings. The events continue to this day; however, the once-modest tents have evolved into brightly colored Victorian cottages.
Although the whaling industry went into great decline during the Civil War, the fame and popularity of the religious campground encouraged separate, secular tourism. By the late 1860s, steamers and railroads were transporting wealthy pleasure-seekers from all over the eastern U.S. to Martha's Vineyard. This level of interest hasn't waned over the years; indeed, Martha's Vineyard is as popular as ever and still a playground paradise for the wealthy.
The Edgartown Inn is the site where Nathaniel Hawthorne wrote
Twice Told Tales, and rumor has it that while there he wooed a woman who inspired him to write the
Scarlet Letter.
The red clay in Aquinnah Cliffs is said to come from the blood of whales that were captured and dragged up the cliffs by the mythical Moshup of the Wampanoag tribe.
The Pagoda Tree on South Water Street in Edgartown was brought to the island as a seedling in the 1840s by Captain Thomas Milton.
"Up-island" is the nautical term for the west end of the island, because degrees of latitude increase as they go west. Thus, "down-island" describes the east side of the island.
