A glance at a globe or world map will show you that the Marquesas are a long way from Tahiti and the other Society Islands—and a long way from anywhere else, for that matter. They lie about 875 mi/1,400 km northeast of Papeete. They're quite different from French Polynesia's busy tourist spots. The geography is more rugged—sharp peaks shooting up from the ocean with waves crashing into the cliffs. Culturally, the islands have their own native language (in addition to French), and Marquesan artisans continue to be the most accomplished at traditional practices such as tattooing, wood carving and making tapa cloth. The islands also preserve the past in several important archaeological sites, the most interesting ones in French Polynesia.
You don't have to be an adventurer to go to the Marquesas. There are two comfortable hotels (one on Nuku Hiva, one on Hiva Oa) and several acceptable guesthouses. But a visit to these islands is more about culture and history than recreation and relaxation (the tiny, biting flies called nono turn most beaches into places of misery). Visitors should also be prepared to make a long and expensive trip from Tahiti and to be immersed in the French language. Those who don't speak French can get by OK at the big hotels or on an escorted tour but will struggle to communicate elsewhere.
The two largest islands, Nuku Hiva and Hiva Oa, have regular air service and draw the bulk of visitors. Nuku Hiva is the seat of government and the most populous island in the Marquesas. The main village of Taiohae sits on a dramatic bay with twin islands guarding its opening. In the village is Piki Vehine, a replica of a traditional house that displays works by modern-day sculptors. Additional contemporary artworks can be seen at the Notre Dame of the Marquesas church. The Taipivai Valley, on the east side of the island, is where most of Nuku Hiva's famous archaeological sites are found. They include large ceremonial sites and tiki (stone sculptures of revered ancestors). Taipivai is also famous because of its connection to U.S. writer Herman Melville. While working on a whaling ship in the 1840s, he jumped ship on Nuku Hiva and lived with islanders in the valley. His experiences became the basis for his book Typee, and there's a monument to Melville in Taiohae. Also, the American reality television series Survivor filmed its Marquesas series in the uninhabited northeast corner of Nuku Hiva.
Hiva Oa is also rich in archaeological sites. The best is Puamou (also known as Iipona), where a collection of tiki stand in a pleasant, shady setting among stone platforms. The tallest stands nearly 9 ft/2.75 m high—the tallest in French Polynesia. Nearby is a low, oval-shaped statue thought to resemble a woman giving birth (though it looked more like a turtle to us). Hiva Oa's other primary site is Taaoa, where a series of ceremonial platforms climb a jungly hillside. A massive banyan tree, thought to be sacred by ancient residents, towers over one of the upper platforms, and some tiki (much smaller than those at Puamou) are present.
As interesting as these ancient sites are, Hiva Oa is probably better known for the two famous Europeans who lived there. Artist Paul Gauguin spent the last years of his life on Hiva Oa and died there in 1903. A small but very modern Gauguin museum is in the main village of Atuona, part of the Atuona Cultural Center. It includes a replica of his house. Beside the museum is, of all things, a small airplane. This belonged to Hiva Oa's other famous resident, singer Jacques Brel, who died in 1978. Both men are buried in the small cemetery at Atuona, and a monument to Brel stands on a remote hilltop northeast of the village.
Just south of Hiva Oa is the island of Tahuata, which can be visited on a boat excursion from Hiva Oa. It has a small village and several historic sites. Tahuata was one of the first places in Polynesia visited by Europeans. Spaniards arrived in 1595 and promptly killed several hundred islanders.
Quite a distance off to the southeast is Fatu Hiva, which can only be reached by boat. It's renowned for its crafts and is one of the only places in French Polynesia where tapa (decorated cloth made from tree bark) is still produced.
If you have the time (about 17 days) and the money, we strongly recommend that you see the islands aboard the freighter Aranui III. The ship departs from Tahiti and stops at six islands in the Marquesas along with two in the Tuamotus. It's a working ship that delivers goods to the islands, but it caters to tourists as well. There are a range of cabins, good food and organized shore trips. The boat departs about once every three weeks throughout the year. You'll need to book your passage well in advance, because this is a popular trip and space is limited. For more information, phone 650-574-2575. Toll-free 800-972-7268. http://www.aranui.com.
