
Located steps from the entrance gate to the Machu Picchu ruins, next to the bus stop and the snack stand, this otherwise exclusive property can only be reached on foot via the Inca Trail or by a winding bus ride up from the train station at Machu Picchu town—also known as Aguas Caliente. Despite its lack of flash and underwhelming room sizes, this small lodge is aimed at the “If you have to ask…” crowd, many of whom travel seamlessly from Cusco on the luxurious Hiram Bingham train.
The property does not face (or mar) the Machu Picchu ruins, but the public areas and some guest rooms face the Huayna Pichu mountain, the famous background peak for every postcard shot of the more famous citadel. A few stone steps lead to a simple check-in area and leather sitting area, with area photos from a 1912 National Geographic expedition lining the walls of this
and the neighboring public areas.
One doorway leads to an attractive rustic bar and a la carte restaurant with an abundance of rough stone, wood, and locally inspired decorations. The stone fireplace and large bar are the centerpieces, and windows face surrounding mountains. High tea is served in the afternoon, with a tempting array of French pastries, chocolates, and finger sandwiches. The other doorway leads to a large buffet restaurant, which guests share with day-trippers. The selection of dishes in both venues is impressive, especially considering that most items must travel four hours by train before being carted up the mountain.
The busy atmosphere of the location subsides at night, but in the daytime guests can escape
to chaises in the quiet, well-tended gardens wedged between the buildings, accompanied by the sounds of bubbling fountains. Additional amenities are limited to a massage room, but with prior arrangement, guests of the hotel can take a guided tour of the ruins after official closing time.
Before the Orient-Express Group took over, the building was a simple travelers' lodge, a heritage still evident in the size of the rooms. Careful planning obviously went into sourcing quality furniture that would fit the small spaces and make the most of every nook and cranny. Rooms are essentially the same and all have a pleasant view of mountains or gardens, but guests pay a hefty premium for the 11 rooms with the coveted panoramic Andes views. Antique armoires and headboards give some gravity to the lodge theme, while colonial chairs and Inca art make up for the
plaid spreads and lack of floor space. Amenities include TVs with VCRs or DVD players, robes, phones, and small but luxurious dressing areas. Baths come with stall showers, hair dryers and biodegradable toiletries. Room service runs until 10 pm. Despite their twin beds, the most desirable rooms, with great views and a terrace, are numbers 35 and 38-40. The two suites have double the space and terraces large enough for a cocktail party.
While the location is remote, service here ranks among the best in the country. Rack rates are likely to induce another round of altitude sickness, despite the included meals, but bookings far in advance are recommended: The property is frequently sold out from May through September.