Inaugurated by President Jomo Kenyatta upon its opening in 1962, Kilaguni is the oldest lodge in any Kenyan national park, set on a hillside in Tsavo West overlooking a busy waterhole with Kilimanjaro providing the backdrop.
It was originally part of a government hotel chain, but was recently taken over by Serena, the best of the country's package hotel chains, and following recent renovations it now has a very contemporary feel steeped in the classic safari-style.
The lodge has the rather monolithic structure typical of lodges of its vintage, but this is softened by the ample use of natural materials, including thatch, wood, canvas and the volcanic rock that dominates the surrounding area.
The main entrance leads past reception and a well-stocked gift shop to an interesting display about the man-eating lions of Tsavo before opening out into the main dining and sitting area.
Excellent buffet breakfasts, lunches and dinners are served in this cavernous room, which has a tall ceiling and open sides overlooking the waterhole and (in clear weather) Kilimanjaro.
Game viewing is the main activity and you don't necessarily need to stray far from camp for this. Indeed, elephant, buffalo, zebra, warthog and various antelope all stop by the waterhole regularly, and predators put in an occasional appearance too.
The lodge is well placed for exploring the forested Mzima Springs, a great spot for hippos and birds, the fenced Ngulia Rhino Sanctuary, and various lava flows and natural ash heaps associated with recent volcanic activity in this part of Kenya. Other activities include guided game walks, ideally followed by a dip in the large swimming pool, and table tennis, darts and a pool table.
The rooms are large and very comfortable, with dark rock walls, tiled floors, and poled ceilings in the Swahili style. Every room has a king-sized or twin bed with walk-in netting, a writing desk, and a wooden table and chairs. Sliding glass doors open out to a private balcony overlooking the waterhole, so you can enjoy excellent game viewing from the privacy of your room.
Kilaguni Serena is the sort of place that gives package safari lodges a good name. The decor is attractive, the rooms are very comfortable, the food is good, and the staff is very professional.
Its greatest asset is its location—not just for the immediate views but also for exploring the park's best scenic spots and wildlife circuits. However, it is less opulent than Finch-Hatton's and lacks the wilderness atmosphere both of this camp and of Voyager Ziwani.
