
On a quiet, tree-filled corner in historic Barrio Amen, one block from the extraordinary Jade Museum and a 10-minute walk through frantic traffic to reach the heart of town—the Plaza de La Cultura, the Gold Museum, the Teatro Nacional and the long and shop-filled Pedestrian Boulevard—this charming boutique hotel provides a genuine feel of home-away-from-home.
Composed of three fine yellow stucco and wood houses from the 1920s and '30s, seamlessly melded together by connecting courtyards, terraces, gardens and fountains, this quintessentially Costa Rican hotel was opened in 1948 by Renaissance man Don Carlos Balser, whose love and knowledge of the arts is apparent throughout the hotel.
The outside of the main building shows walls decorated with tile murals depicting the stories of Aquileo Echeverria about Costa Rican life at that time. This hotel that feels more like a welcoming country inn continues to be proudly run by the Balser family, now in its fourth generation.
The charming entryway starts with steps from the street to a small porch graced by pre-Columbian figurines and statues of twocompaneros engaged in discourse—part of the family's private collection. The exceptional service begins with the warm welcome offered by the doorman/concierge/security guard. Security is now an issue in San Jose with the rise in thefts. Most hotels post a guard outside, many of them with the body and manner that suggest 'bouncer.' At this unique hotel, however, even the guys that keep close watch at the front door make guests feel like family.
At the front desk, guests are immediately fascinated by the wealth of art and antiques in all of the public spaces—pre-Colombian statuary, bronze sculptures, tinkling fountains, stained-glass windows, regional treasures such as Sarchi oxcarts. The family's proudest possession can be admired right by the front desk—a mural containing 272 hand-painted tiles depicting how the area surrounding the hotel looked at the turn of the century.
Guests enjoy a welcome cocktail in the Pre-Columbian Lounge, a small, cozy restaurant with a surprisingly wide—and delicious—selection of international and local cuisine, in a comfortable skylighted atrium, given added charm by a living wall of natural rock that is a cascading fountain filled with pre-Columbian statuary and tropical plants.
On rainy days guests come here for the complimentary tropical fruit-laden breakfast that also includes scrambled eggs and the Costa Rican staple—gallo pinto, a seasoned rice and black bean mixture. On sunny days guests relish having breakfast in the delightful courtyard surrounded by exotic tropical plants and statuary, and soothed by a large fountain that spills into a plunge pool. An above-ground whirlpool is also here, which guests need to reserve 45 minutes in advance.
Tour groups find this hotel particularly appealing. The hotel offers an active car rental and tour office run personally by the hotel. Guests soon learn, if they do not know already, that diverse day trips to all parts of the country are like the spokes of a wheel, whose hub is San Jose. Guests can hike up a volcano on one day, come "home" to Don Carlos
to sleep, and then go off surfing or sport fishing on the Pacific or the Caribbean the next day.
Airport shuttles, or taxis to anywhere, are deftly handled. Boutique Annemarie, one of the largest and best-priced gift shops in the city, bids guests welcome right across from the front desk.
There are no official meeting rooms, but local and international business groups feel at home gathering in the mini lounges, and in what the hotel describes as comfortable seating in the "nooks and quiet corners that abound throughout the interior maze." One of those mini lounges is where guests can make use of three complimentary computers. If they need fax or copy machines, they are welcome to use those in the administration offices.
Wireless Internet access is available only in the public areas. Guests will be happy to learn, however, that this hotel offers them unlimited free local and five-minutes of free international calls. An area popular for improvised business meetings is the Pre-Columbian Lounge. Sadly the restaurant and bar close at 8:30 pm. For late-night eaters and tipplers, the hotel graciously posts a list of recommended haunts, some of them offering discounts to the hotel's guests.
An attic room, which can accommodate about 40 people is available for rental from outside companies. A local certified yoga teacher offers classes here. In-room massages can be arranged. Ample secure parking is available in an adjacent lot.
The varied and individually themed guest rooms have parquet floors for the most part, dark wood furniture, some of it antique, and a mixture of modern and by-gone decor with tropical touches, such as tropical floral spreads and large colorful wood parrots on some of the walls. Amenities include: ceiling fans, 21- or 26-inch TVs, full-length mirrors, safes, one king or two double beds, phones, desks (in 10 rooms), and tiled baths with spacious showers, hair dryers, and large counters in some.
The best and quietest are the rooms on Floors 2 and 3, above the Pre-Columbian Lounge, that offer mountain views. One of the best bargains in town for families is the Family Room, which offers two bedrooms that share the bath - one room with double bed and large-screen TV, and the other with two single beds and a smaller TV.
Room service is offered 7 am until 8:30 pm. There are no rooms designated for smokers; three are wheelchair-accessible. Pets are not welcome. Laundry and dry cleaning services are available. Security is top-notch with 24-hour guards and cameras in public areas. Fire extinguishers are located throughout.
Though this hotel lacks the refinement and superb restaurant of the Grano de Oro, it is nevertheless the better choice for anyone seeking not just lodging but travel headquarters in the heart of San Jose.