Zimbabwe's capital city, Harare is modern and pleasant. The city is not as bustling and hurried as Nairobi, Kenya, and we are thankful for that. Harare has a laid-back charm—although you can see the highlights in one very full day, add another if you want to slow the pace and do some shopping. Begin bright and early at the Mbare Musika market, next to the main bus station. The market has sections offering produce, clothing (some handmade), herbs, traditional medicines and crafts (the crafts are sold at bargain prices, compared with prices in hotel and downtown tourist shops). Be sure to ask the vendors to describe what they're selling if it isn't obvious—we were told that one gelatinous substance was to be burned at night to ward off bad dreams. Smaller markets selling leather and other specialized products are nearby. Like you should in many busy downtown markets in Africa's big cities, beware of pickpocketing and petty theft; do not take anything valuable with you, and ask your taxi driver to wait while you peruse. If you're visiting Harare between the end of April and the end of September, try to see one of the daily tobacco auctions: Zimbabwe used to produce a lot of tobacco when the economy was stronger, and the auctions are still rather lively (though nothing like when the auction floors used to be the biggest in the world).
The Queen Victoria Museum (near the Sheraton Hotel) requires an hour to see its natural-history displays, and another hour could be spent at the National Art Gallery (many original items by Zimbabwean artists are for sale there). After you walk around the downtown area, stroll through the Harare Gardens. In African Unity Park, flower vendors sell a fantastic array of tropical blooms for very reasonable prices. The city has excellent golf courses and active nightlife (the name Harare means "the one who does not sleep"). We especially enjoyed the distinctive local music.
Several short excursions can be made from the capital. Bird-watchers may want to visit the Kuimba Shira Bird Gardens, 20 mi/32 km outside of Harare on the shores of Lake Chivero. More than 400 species are found there around the natural lake, which itself is the main supplier of fresh water to Harare. The lake is a popular weekend spot for city dwellers and offers excellent fishing, picnic sites on the lake shore, a tea garden and shop. It is also possible to see giraffes, rhinos and other animals in the area around the lake. The Kopje, site of the Eternal Flame of Independence, is on a hill outside of town and offers great vistas.
Ewanrigg National Park, about a 30-minute drive outside of town, has impressive gardens filled with aloes and cycads—things are really blooming in July and August. In the suburbs is Chapungu Kraal, a reproduction of a 19th-century Shona village—complete with a traditional healer and soothsayer and performances by traditional dance troupes on weekends. Chapungu Kraal also has an art gallery and sculpture gardens. If time permits, spend a day at the Lion and Cheetah Park to see lions, giraffes, rhinos and other animals (there's a snake farm there, too). It's really more like driving through a zoo than visiting a real reserve, and it will really only appeal to people who aren't planning on going to larger game parks.
