Back when Gozo was called Ogygia, the Greek hero Odysseus spent seven years on the island. Today, we think four or five nights is just about right. Reached by car ferry from Valletta or Cirkewwa on Malta, Gozo has rugged sandy beaches and rolling hills. The largest city is
Victoria (locally called Rabat). Visit the pleasant central square and its maze of surrounding streets, St. George's Church, the Gozo Crafts Centre (good selection of local handicrafts) and, rising above the town, the Citadel/Gran Castello. The walled citadel affords unparalleled views over the island and surrounds a cathedral and five small museums. The cathedral's plain facade hides an ornate baroque interior with an unusual trompe l'oeil dome.
Other island attractions include Gozo Heritage, a series of life-size dioramas depicting the island's past; pretty Xlendi Bay (on the western coast); and red-sand Ramla Bay (near the reputed Calypso Cave). On the eastern coast, the Inland Sea, reached by a tunnel, is wonderful for swimming—it's warmer than the open sea. It is fronted by the Azure Window (a striking rock arch set over the sea) and offshore is Fungus Rock (site of a rare lichen that was prized for its medicinal value in medieval times). Near Xaghra are a number of archaeological sites, including the two Ggantija Temples (more than 1,000 years older than the Egyptian pyramids) and the Alabaster Caves. Gharb is worth a visit for its interesting Folklore Museum and nearby is the simple Ta'Pinu Church, said to be the site of many miracles. Gozo is 15 mi/25 km northwest of Valletta.