Penguins and whales, sea lions and iguanas, tropical birds and giant tortoises—this bizarre collection of species comes together in a single destination on the equator. You can walk right up to most of them and look them in the eye. There aren't many places in the world where you can play tag with a sea lion. The Galapagos Islands are one of them, and so it's no surprise that these islands, 600 mi/970 km off the coast of Ecuador, are so special. Their remoteness from other land masses and the absence of human settlements until the past century allowed their animal inhabitants to live without fear of most predators. As a result, the islands have an abundance of animals, birds and reptiles that are unafraid of human contact. In some cases, they actually seem to relish it.
The islands are best known as the home of giant tortoises that can weigh as much as 600 lb/272 kg and live nearly 200 years. But you'll also see marine iguanas (they resemble small dragons and are the only seagoing lizards in the world), scarlet-breasted frigate birds, blue- and red-footed nazca boobies, tiny penguins at home in the tropics and giant, graceful albatrosses. About half of the islands' species are found nowhere else on Earth.
Volcanic in origin, the archipelago has 13 larger and scores of lesser islands whose terrain is mostly stark and barren, save for a few cloud forests. The islands themselves are interesting geologically, although most people come to see their rare fauna and flora. One of the most famous visitors was Charles Darwin, whose five-week stay in 1835 led him to note that some species of birds had changed both physically and behaviorally as a result of their environment, and over time evolved into distinct species. His famous book The Origin of Species and the theory of evolution were influenced greatly by what he saw there.
These days, most visitors see the islands as part of a cruise tour. Small boats, or pangas, drop travelers off on individual islands, where knowledgeable naturalists introduce the lifestyles and mating rituals of the native species. Swimming and snorkeling are possible at most sites, often accompanied by curious sea lions, sea turtles and an occasional penguin. The marine environment of the Galapagos is also a protected area; it is the largest Marine Reserve in the Americas, and the second largest in the world after the Great Barrier Reef.
Wandering about on your own, though, is not allowed. Though it may seem unlikely, some people have died after venturing off on their own and dehydrating. Strict rules imposed by the Galapagos National Park require that licensed guides accompany all visitors and that you stick to about 60 designated sites on the islands, most of which are uninhabited. You may walk only on marked trails, and you cannot touch or feed the animals—even allowing a bird to drink from a water bottle is forbidden to avoid making the animals the least bit dependent upon humans. As you'll soon discover, however, some contact cannot be avoided: You'll be amazed at how close some of the animals will come to you. Darwin's famous finches occasionally land on your shoulder, and sea lions lounge next to you on the beach.
History
Volcanoes resting on the ocean floor erupted 3 million to 5 million years ago, creating the geologically adolescent Galapagos Islands. Because they were so far from other land masses, the islands were ignored by humans for centuries. Then, in the 1500s, pirates, explorers and whalers began stopping to pick up firewood, water and fresh meat—thousands of the islands' giant tortoises were captured and stored in ship holds for future meals.
Tomas de Berlanga, a bishop en route to Peru, wrote the first account of the islands in 1535, telling the king of Spain he'd seen tortoises big enough to carry a man. His tales put the islands on the map. British pirates used the islands as a refuge in the 16th and 17th centuries in their attacks on the Spanish colonies in South America.
The islands' first known resident was Patrick Watkins, an Irish castaway, but he didn't stay long, nor did many others, until Darwin arrived on the HMS Beagle in 1835. Darwin's writings about evolution stimulated interest in the islands among scientists, as well as among wealthy explorers and several groups of eccentrics. Ecuador, which claimed the islands in 1832, officially designated about 97% of the islands a national park in 1959 to protect them from development. In 1978, UNESCO made the islands a World Heritage Site. In 1998, the Galapagos Marine Reserve was created, the world's second largest after the Great Barrier Reef. Today, more than 120,000 people visit the islands each year.
The islands' growing popularity as an ecotourism destination has created its own set of problems, however. About 23,000 people, many of them impoverished Ecuadorians, have moved there seeking a better life and jobs, at first in fishing, but now in tourism. Along with them have come nonnative animals and plants that are altering the unique heritage of the islands. The Ecuadorian government has taken steps to limit immigration and eradicate such animals as feral goats. It also regulates the number of visitors and the size of the boats allowed to tour the islands. Fishing boats caught in park waters have been detained and their owners fined. But tensions run high in the islands regarding their management. There have been several strikes by fishermen, as well as by national park wardens. The Ecuadorean government, according to many, is failing to safeguard this unique archipelago for future generations.
In March 2007, the government signed a national decree putting the islands' management as a top priority, favoring its conservation and protection. This implies changes will occur, and stricter rules will be put into effect for all areas that involve development on the islands. Current tourist operations are not going through any kind of suspensions or ceasing of licenses, but future tourist operations will meet stricter rules or even bans on development. Naturally, illegal immigration to the islands, illegal fishing, introduced species and poor education of the local population remain dangers to the Galapagos. When booking a cruise to the islands, you'll want to consider the environmental standards of the cruise/hotel operator, as well as whether it contributes to environmental education on the islands.
Potpourri
The late Kurt Vonnegut wrote the novel
Galapagos in 1985 about the last survivors of the human race being shipwrecked on the islands and evolving to be more like the happy creatures that live there today.
Charles Darwin visited the islands on the HMS Beagle in 1835, but didn't publish his groundbreaking book The Origin of Species until 1859.
The Galapagos Islands is the only place where penguins live north of the equator. This makes the species the only tropical penguin on Earth. The bird is also the world's second-smallest penguin.
There were once 15 subspecies of giant tortoises on the islands. Only 11 of those species remain today.
The only nonflying cormorant in the world lives in the Galapagos Islands. It evolved to hunt fish by diving from shore and eventually lost the use of its wings for flight.
The life span of a Galapagos land tortoise may be as high as 200 years.
The archipelago was known as the Enchanted Islands because of the way in which the strong and shifting currents made navigation difficult.
Recreation
Although most people regard the Galapagos as a cruise destination, the larger island of Santa Cruz is becoming more popular for land-based tours. Horseback riding, mountain-bike riding and trekking are the main activities, as well as bird-watching, surfing, sea kayaking and sailing. These are best organized with a local tour operator or hotel, such as the Red Mangrove Inn in the town of Puerto Ayora (http://www.redmangrove.com) or Finch Bay Eco Hotel (http://www.finchbayhotel.com), the only beachfront property throughout the whole island of Santa Cruz.
Scuba & Snorkeling
The Galapagos archipelago is regarded as one of the world's best scuba-diving sites. Diving there is not for beginners because of strong currents, varying visibility and cooler waters, but the range and number of large marine mammals and fish on show is stunning. Galapagos is the only place on Earth where a crossroads of currents has brought together four animal groups: tropical species of fish (such as in the Caribbean), subtropical species of fish (such as around Baja California), sea lions (such as in California) and penguins (such as in Antarctica). The islands are not famous for the colorful reef fish, although there are plenty to see, but for the large schools of big things underwater, such as rays, sharks, jacks and tuna.
Two operators run land-based and live-aboard dive trips in the Galapagos (although there are other live-aboards operating, as well as some yachts that offer scuba diving as an extra on regular cruises). Both Scuba Iguana (http://www.scubaiguana.com) and Galapagos Sub-Aqua (http://www.galapagos-sub-aqua.com) are very professional and experienced.
Shopping
Shopping is pretty limited in the Galapagos. Most cruise ships sell some souvenirs and T-shirts in their gift shops. The best shops are in the town of Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz Island, where nearly every visitor spends at least part of a day. The street that runs between the harbor and the Charles Darwin Research Station is lined with vendors and small boutiques selling carved-wood turtles, boobies and other animals native to the islands. Postcards, photographs, weavings, jewelry and other mementos also can be purchased. The best place to buy books about the island and T-shirts is the gift shop at the Darwin Station—the quality is high and the proceeds benefit the station's preservation efforts. There also are several shops near the harbor of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno on San Cristobal Island. For last-minute souvenirs, both the San Cristobal and Baltra airports have several gift shops.
Do not, however, purchase items made from black coral, turtle shells or any other living creatures—all these species are protected.
Local Tours
About 100 vessels—from converted fishing boats with five passengers to cruise ships carrying up to 100 passengers—offer a variety of tours of the Galapagos Islands. Yacht or small-boat tours are usually more intimate, with more personal service. But larger ships offer more amenities, are more stable in the water and travel faster, allowing you to visit more distant islands.
Tours also vary in length, from several days to two weeks or more. A minimum of seven days is highly recommended because you can see more and have time to appreciate your experience. (Most four-day/three-night itineraries include a day of air travel between the mainland and the boat, so you only get two full days on the islands.) Additionally, the islands are geologically different. This means that not only is each landscape unique, but in most cases the wildlife is also unique to each particular island. Examples include waved albatrosses, flightless cormorants, flamingos, land iguanas, giant tortoises and red-footed boobies.
Some tours are geared for bird-watchers or those who prefer to experience nature at a leisurely pace. Others target adventure travelers, offering more opportunities for hiking, kayaking, snorkeling and scuba diving. The Galapagos are just as spectacular underwater as above (especially for seeing large creatures such as hammerhead sharks, reef sharks, whales, dolphins and sea lions). But be aware that despite their position on the equator, the islands are surrounded by cool water (by tropical standards) and somewhat strong currents: Divers should be relatively experienced and should engage only reputable dive companies. Becoming a certified diver is a possibility there, but you will need to arrange that in advance with any local hotel that has a dive operation. Santa Cruz Island offers the best options and the most rewarding dive sites nearby.
It's also possible to stay on one of the main islands and take day trips by boat or airplane to several other islands.
Each visitor must pay a park admission fee of US$100 in cash. This fee is rarely included in the price of your tour, so do ask before you arrive. The Galapagos National Park regulates the total number of visitors allowed in the park, as well as which islands are visited by each ship and the amount of time visitors can spend on each island. Small groups of no more than 16 can visit each site at one time to avoid overcrowding and overstressing the animals. Most boats stop at two islands a day, transporting passengers in small boats to areas that can be explored on foot or to beaches where you can swim and snorkel.
Because the number of visitors per year is limited, you should book your tour and accommodations as much as six months ahead if you plan to visit during peak times—the summer months and during the Christmas and Easter holidays. The best time to go depends on the traveler's interests. Do you enjoy snorkeling in warmer water? Can you withstand humidity? Are you looking for something specific to see on the islands (such as the courtship of blue-footed boobies)? How seaworthy are you?
What is true, though, is that any time of the year Galapagos welcomes visitors. It is not a seasonal destination like Alaska or Antarctica. The transition months between seasons are the months when most wildlife events will happen. These months are April, May, September, December and January, but there really isn't a bad time to go.
It's worth bearing in mind that the number of Galapagos boats and their constant changes make it difficult for anyone to recommend any one boat. Crews change, as do captains. You should research vessels as much as possible before selecting one. Agencies that can help in this task in Ecuador include Sangay Touring (http://www.guide2galapagos.com) and Safari Tours (http://www.safari.com.ec). These companies are also worth checking for last-minute bargains. Be aware that sometimes the less you pay in Galapagos, the less you get from the tour. Thus, if you are looking for a real Galapagos experience, be sure to opt for a reputable operator.
Dining Overview
Since there are not many hotels in Galapagos, and most are found on Santa Cruz Island, the dining scene is limited to a handful of places. Visitors looking for quality options choose lunch or dinner at Finch Bay Eco Hotel right by the sea, and others prefer to have brunch at Angermeyer Point next to the small northern cliffs at Punta Estrada. In town, La Garrapata is a great option. If you're looking for seafood dishes, try El Salvavidas next to the main dock, but don't expect elegance. Other restaurants are found there, too, but it takes some exploring. There are pizza restaurants, ice-cream shops, small cafeterias and bars, as well.
Personal Safety
Crime isn't really a problem in the Galapagos. Safety on the islands is usually more about protecting yourself from bad experiences than from theft or physical harm. But there have been reports of dishonest tour operators. Be sure to use a reputable tour company, especially if you're a diver. There are still a few substandard ships floating around the islands, so it is worth researching what a company's safety standards are and what international certifications the operator has. In the past, though not common, boats have capsized and sunk. Some also have run out of basic supplies such as food and water. Keep this in mind if you are bargain shopping—the cost savings for the operator is coming from somewhere. Be sure that it doesn't come from hiring unqualified guides or through the continued use of old equipment.
Health
Your biggest health concern in the Galapagos is the intensity of the sun. Apply plenty of sunscreen and always wear a hat. Most boats and ships supply all food and drinks, along with bottled water to take on shore excursions. Be sure to drink plenty of liquids. Rough seas can occasionally be a problem. Most ship crews are equipped to deal with seasickness, but you may want to talk with your doctor about possible preventive measures before you go. If you know you are susceptible to seasickness, take care to pack medications such as Dramamine or herbal remedies such as ginger tablets. Some travelers claim pressure bracelets help as well. Medications must be taken
before you fall ill, however.
Biting insects can be found near areas with mangroves year-round, but generally it is only during the peak months of the hot season (February and March) that insect repellent is a must. Malaria and West Nile virus have never been reported on the islands. It is not a good idea to take any spray repellent, since it can harm native insects or plants: Use a repellent in lotion form.
Dos & Don'ts
Do not take food or plants to the islands.
Do listen to your guide for safety procedures.
Do pay attention to information from a guide who is very knowledgeable about the region. This will enrich your experience.
Do not stray off the indicated paths or venture out on your own.
Do not ever feed or touch the animals, no matter how friendly they may seem. It is critical that animals do not come to depend on humans or associate them with food or water or as threats.
Do pack plenty of film or camera memory cards. Expect to take far more photos than you would normally. Many travelers will use up half their stock with just their first couple of amazing encounters with the animals. Some cruise ships may be able to burn CDs of your digital pictures to free up your memory card, but it is better to be safe than sorry.
Hotel Overview
Although most visitors to the islands spend their nights aboard ships or yachts, several small hotels and guesthouses offer accommodations on a few of the islands. Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz has the best selection, including the environmentally committed and award-winning Finch Bay Eco Hotel (http://www.finchbayhotel.com) on a secluded beach outside of town—the only lodging offering a beach; and the boutique Red Mangrove Inn. Puerto Baquerizo Moreno on San Cristobal also has a few small hotels, including the Gran Hotel San Cristobal. Other islands with accommodations are Isabela, including La Casa de Marita, a wonderful seaside boutique-hotel, and Floreana, where you can find the only pension-style hotel, owned by the Wittmer family.
Geostats
Passport/Visa Requirements: As of January 2007, all U.S. citizens must have a passport when traveling by air to or from Bermuda, Canada, the Caribbean, Central and South America and Mexico. Citizens of Canada, Mexico and the British Overseas Territory of Bermuda also must have a passport or other designated secure document to enter the U.S.
Beginning 1 June 2009, passports are required for land crossings at the Canadian and Mexican borders with the U.S. and for cruise passengers returning to the U.S. from Mexico, the Caribbean, Canada or Bermuda. Reconfirm travel-document requirements with your carrier prior to departure.
Population: 20,000.
Languages: Spanish.
Time Zone: 6 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time (-6 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is not observed.
Voltage Requirements: 110 volts.
Telephone Codes: 593, country code; 05,Galapagos province code;
Currency Exchange
The U.S. dollar is the official currency of Ecuador. Credit cards are generally accepted but often with high service charges, and it may be cash only at smaller operations. Banco del Pacifico only has branches in Puerto Ayora and Baquerizo Moreno. This is where you can cash traveler's checks and find ATMs. Shops have added service charges on credit-card use. It is best to ask before purchasing.
Don't forget that you will need to pay the US$100 park fee in cash upon arrival.
Taxes
IVA is a 12% tax added to goods and services. In basic hotels and restaurants, that tax may be included in the price. Bigger hotels will add it on at the end, often with an additional 10% service charge, making your final total quite a bit higher than you may have figured. Car rentals rarely figure tax into their rate quotes. Always ask for clarification beforehand.
Tipping
Tip 10% in restaurants unless service is included in the bill (in which case an additional small amount is appreciated, but not required). Tips should be paid directly to the waiter in cheaper restaurants, where 5% is acceptable. Taxi drivers aren't tipped unless they perform special services, though you'll want to round up the fare. Be aware that taxi drivers may find it difficult to make change (which often results in a larger tip).
It is customary to tip the crew and guides on boat tours separately. What you pay depends on the level of service you received, of course, but a general guideline is US$10-$15 per day per traveler.
Weather
December-April, the ocean is more likely to be calm and warm enough for snorkeling. But the islands are a year-round destination, with peak visitor times coinciding with typical vacation schedules—mid-June to late August, December to mid-January and around Easter week. The hot season runs January-June, when warm, sunny weather (highs of 80-85 F/27-30 C) is interrupted by rain showers and occasional downpours. It's drier but cooler July-December, with high temperatures generally staying in the 70s F/25 C. The seas are roughest August-October, but the effects of this really depend on the size of the boat. The islands are not a seasonal destination like Alaska or Antarctica, and there really isn't a bad time to go.
What to Wear
Comfortable walking shoes are essential because you'll be walking and climbing on rough volcanic rocks most of the day. A sturdy pair of walking sandals is recommended for wet landings on the islands. Casual cotton clothing should protect you from the sun and keep you reasonably cool. During the dry season, a light Windbreaker (parka-style) and a long-sleeve shirt or sweatshirt will provide added comfort against possible drizzly conditions and/or windy afternoons where a visitor site may be well-exposed to sea breezes.
Despite the islands' proximity to the equator, the water is not always warm. During much of the year, you'll be more comfortable wearing a wet suit for snorkeling and swimming. Check with your tour operator to see if suits are supplied or take your own along. Tours are generally casual and shorts are acceptable there. Evenings on board cruise boats can be chilly and breezy, so a light jacket, Windbreaker or even a sweater will be helpful.
Telephone
Populated islands offer direct-line service for international phone calls, and it is a true bargain to call abroad. Larger vessels offer satellite communications, and although these can be pricey, they can certainly put you in touch with the world.
If you have an unrestricted quad-band cell phone, you will be able to use it, as it can connect to the local networks. However, island coverage may be erratic at times because of signal availability.
Internet Access
Some larger cruise ships provide a satellite Internet connection and may even include it in the price. Hotels generally have access, and you may find plenty of Internet cafes in the two port towns. Connection can be slow and costlier than on the mainland. Still, it is a bargain to pay US$1 for a 30-minute session considering the remote location.
Mail & Package Services
There is mail service on the inhabited islands, but since it is not daily, it takes up to five additional days for postcards to reach the mainland, and then the five- to 30-day service you can expect from there. Packages are best sent with carrier services. It might be best to write all the postcards you need to in Galapagos, but mail the items once you get back to Quito or Guayaquil. However, some people will enjoy collecting the Galapagos postmark.
Newspapers & Magazines
Daily newspapers include
El Comercio and
Diario Hoy from Quito, and
El Universo from Guayaquil.
Transportation
The vast majority of visitors arrive by plane from the mainland (the rest travel in their private yachts, although the paperwork required for taking your own boat there can be sufficiently tough to make it not worth visiting in such a fashion). Flights land at either the airport on Baltra Island, which is close to Santa Cruz Island, or at the airport on San Cristobal Island. Only Ecuadorian airlines are allowed to fly to the Galapagos. Most of the 90-minute flights leave from Guayaquil and Quito in the morning, arriving in the islands around noon. Flights departing from the islands usually leave in the early afternoon.
The Baltra airport, which was built by the U.S. during World War II to defend the Panama Canal, is near Santa Cruz, one of the main tourist islands. Most ships depart from the small port on Baltra, but very few will require you to travel across Santa Cruz Island to reach the town of Puerto Ayora, which is on the island's south side. Such arrangements happen when your boat requires logistical support (fuel, food, water, etc.). The trip from the Baltra airport to Puerto Ayora takes about an hour and a half by bus or ferry.
The airport on San Cristobal is close to the town of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, where most ships anchor in the harbor. Transportation from the airport to the ship is always included. Once you step out from the National Park counter, you will be met by your guide or a ship/hotel representative. Taxis are permanently available from the airport down to the main dock.
Most people visit the islands as part of a prearranged tour, but you can also use one of the islands as a base and take day trips to visit the others. Lately, the fashion of visiting the Galapagos has drawn attention to new markets; visitors who prefer a less regimented schedule that ships typically offer often choose to stay at a local hotel and plan an itinerary from there. Some yachts and small boats offer day tours. Small private planes also provide transportation between islands such as San Cristobal, Santa Cruz and Isabela (at Puerto Villamil).
For More Information
For more information on the islands, visit http://www.govisitgalapagos.com. Other useful sites include: http://www.viveecuador.com, http://www.galapagosvoyage.com, http://www.fundaciongalapagos.org, http://www.galapagospark.org and http://www.visit-ecuador.com.
Additional Reading
Galapagos: A Natural History Guide by Michael H. Jackson.
Charles Darwin Slept Here by John Woram.
The Beak of the Finch by Jonathan Weiner.
Galapagos: World's End by William Beebe.
The Origin of Species by Charles Darwin.
Voyage of the Beagle by Charles Darwin.
Galapagos (a novel) by Kurt Vonngegut.
