The Faroe Islands, an autonomous area under Danish administration, lie between Iceland and Norway. Although there are many islands in the group, only 18 are inhabited, with a total population of about 45,000. The islands are accessible by air from Denmark and Iceland or by ferry from Iceland, Denmark, Norway or the Shetlands in Scotland. Rugged green mountains, fjords and countless waterfalls compose this natural wonderland. Other attractions include medieval churches, fishing villages, old farmhouses and sheep. We love it there: It's not the least bit touristy, the people are friendly (you'll find yourself engaged in long talks with the local fishermen), it's fairly modern and it has a distinctive atmosphere. The light, which constantly changes, is extraordinary. The islands are known for their linguistic diversity, as every little bygd (settlement) has its own dialect. We especially enjoyed the towns of Gjogv, Kirkjubo, Torshavn (the capital city), Tjornevik (wide, windswept beach) and Saksun (set on the hillside above a tidal lake). Be prepared for sudden changes in its relatively mild climate. 800 mi/1,290 km northwest of Copenhagen.