Croatia's capital and largest city, Zagreb also was the cultural capital of the former Yugoslavia. The city boasts many museums, art galleries, orchestras and folk festivals. Today, outdoor cafes are full, dance clubs pump music into the night air and art festivals are popular. Zagreb has several reminders of the Austro-Hungarian period, particularly the decorated facades and the deep yellow color of old government buildings.
The city can be divided into three areas: the upper town, or old town (the winding part up in the mountains), the lower town (the flat, gridlike section) and the new part (the surrounding plain covered with concrete-block apartment buildings). Confine your sightseeing to the first two areas: You won't miss much by skipping the third.
Begin at the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary and stroll past the nearby central market and into spacious Jelacic Square (Trg bana Jelacica), which is the heart of the city. Catch the funicular to the upper town and pass the Stone Gate, which has a shrine to the Virgin Mary. (The icon surrounded by candles was miraculously untouched after a devastating fire in 1731.)
Walk around to St. Mark's Church, which has a colorfully tiled roof (reminiscent of the Hapsburgs) and a stark interior designed by sculptor Ivan Mestrovic. Stop by the Mestrovic Studio, located at Mletacka 8, which houses an extensive collection of his work. If you'd like to see another church, visit St. Catherine's, which has a frothy baroque interior that looks as if it could be made of whipped cream.
There are a number of museums in the city: The best are the Strossmayer Gallery of Old Masters and the Museum Mimara (wonderful selection of art glass and European paintings). If you can't afford to stay at the Regent Esplanade hotel, located at Mihanoviceva 1, at least have a coffee there. The art-deco wonder was built to house passengers traveling through the area on the Orient Express.
If you have time, take a brief trip up Mount Medvednica, overlooking the city, where you'll find the medieval fortress of Medvedgrad. We recommend a long day trip into the picturesque rolling countryside to the north of Zagreb known as the Hrvatsko Zagorje. It's dotted with castles, spas, farms, small villages and vineyards.
Start at Kumrovec, the village where former Yugoslavian Prime Minister Joseph Broz Tito was born—it's also home to ethnographic museum Staro Selo—to get an idea of early peasant life in Croatia. Then go castle hopping, with stops at dramatic Veliki Tabor (our favorite), which houses a museum that displays ancient weapons and tools. Also see romantic Trakoscan, tucked in a dreamlike setting in the woods, overlooking a small lake.
Also worth visiting is the small village of Marija Bistrica, where the Church of St. Mary of the Snows houses a 15th-century statue of a black Madonna. The statue is credited with miraculous deeds and attracts many tourists and religious pilgrims to the area.
