Uganda Vacation Guide

Uganda's currency is the Uganda shilling. Exchange rates have been reasonably steady against the U.S. dollar, U.K. pound and euro in recent years. Don't count on using credit cards in Uganda except at the upmarket hotels, and outside of Kampala there are very few ATMs. Traveler's checks are accepted in some banks, provided that you carry proof of purchase, but not at private exchange bureaus. When changing cash, small dollar bills attract a lower exchange rate than larger ones. Don't be tempted to deal in the black market. It is illegal, and there is the danger of being ripped off.

Look closely at what you're given when you change money. Many counterfeit U.S. banknotes, printed on plain paper, are circulating in Uganda. Because of this, Ugandan banks and wildlife authorities do not accept pre-2002 U.S. banknotes. Gorilla permits cost US$500 and are paid for in U.S. cash.

Monday-Friday 8:30 am-2 pm.

Tip about 10% in restaurants, unless a service charge has already been added.

The best times to visit are December-March and June-September. It can be somewhat rainy then, but not as rainy as in the rainy season, March-June. December-February and June-July are the driest times, when things can even be a bit dusty. Although the country lies astride the equator, most of Uganda is on a plateau 3,600-6,000 ft/900-1,830 m above sea level, and it can get cool in the evenings.

Light, casual clothing is the order of the day on safari, and it's advisable to carry at least one change of shirt and underwear per day as there are few opportunities to have laundry done while you are on the move. Shorts and a T-shirt are fine by day, but you might want to cover up at night (long trousers and sleeves, socks and shoes) to minimize mosquito bites. A light sweater will come in useful in the highlands, as will a waterproof jacket during the rainy season.

Solid walking shoes and thick trousers (jeans or similar) are a must for tracking gorillas and chimps through the nettle-strewn forest undergrowth. Shorts on men are acceptable in informal circumstances, but many Ugandans consider them inappropriate for men whose schooldays are long past. Women should avoid skimpy attire, especially in towns and villages, where it may give offense.

Internet cafes are prolific in Kampala and can be found in other towns such as Jinja, Mbale, Masaka, Mbarara, Fort Portal, Kasese and Kabale. Wi-Fi isn't widely available, and you can't rely on Internet access at all while on safari, although satellite links are sometimes available.

International post is slow and unreliable. Postcards and letters will almost always get through, although it may be several weeks before this happens. It's advisable to courier valuables or bulkier items through DHL or a similar service.

Uganda has a good English-language press. The dailies New Vision and Monitor offer good international coverage alongside juicy local news, while a Kenyan weekly called The East African has excellent regional coverage.

Uganda's landline telephone system, although reasonably efficient, has been marginalized by an upsurge of mobile satellite telephones, with main providers being Mango, Celtel and the South African company MTN. The MTN satellite network grid is the widest and includes large parts of Queen Elizabeth and Murchison Falls national parks. Most safari drivers and guides will carry a mobile phone on safari and on game drives, although they may not always have airtime in an emergency. Self-drive visitors with compatible phones can buy a local SIM card very cheaply, giving them their own number in Uganda. Airtime is very inexpensive.

Major international carriers serve Entebbe National Airport (EBB), which is 2 mi/4 km from Entebbe and 25 mi/40 km southwest of Kampala. There are taxis outside to take you to both. Immigration procedures there are usually straightforward, and visas can be purchased on arrival with a valid passport.

The airport is reasonably modern, but there is a large presence of patrolling soldiers, presumably a throwback to the 1976 hostage incident. The old El Al jet can still be seen parked up on the perimeter of the runway. Uganda Airlines also offers service within the country, and it is now possible to fly to Bwindi National Park with charter companies.

Passenger rail service is available from Nairobi, Kenya, and the journey from there to Kampala takes all day. Escorted tours are offered by local companies. If you're renting a car, be sure to hire a driver as well. The local bus system is undependable and, for most Westerners, unsuitable. Heavy rains sometimes disable an already poor road system, though the road between Kampala and Entebbe is paved. Check current conditions and allow extra time before venturing into the countryside. Traffic moves on the left.

Tourist Offices

Uganda: Uganda Tourist Board, P.O. Box 7211, Kampala. Phone 256-414-342-196 or -197. http://www.visituganda.com.

Uganda does not have tourist offices in Australia, Canada, the U.K. or the U.S., though some tourist information is available from the local embassy or high commission. http://uganda.embassyhomepage.com

Uganda Embassies

Canada: Uganda High Commission, 231 Cobourg St., Ottawa, ON K1N 8J2. Phone 613-789-7797.

U.K.: Uganda High Commission, 58/59 Trafalgar Square, London WC2N 5DX. Phone 20-7839-5783. http://uganda.embassyhomepage.com.

U.S.: Embassy of Uganda, 5911 16th St. N.W., Washington, DC 20011. Phone 202-726-7100. http://www.ugandaembassy.com.

Uganda does not have diplomatic representation in Australia.

Embassies in Uganda

Australia is represented by its high commission in Kenya: Australian High Commission, Riverside Drive, Nairobi (mail address: P.O. Box 39341, Nairobi, Kenya). Phone 254-20-444-5034.

Canadian Consulate, Upper Ground Floor, Jubilee Insurance Center, 14 Parliament Ave., Kampala (mail address: P.O. Box 20115, Kampala, Uganda). Phone 256-414-258-141.

British High Commission, 4 Windsor Loop, Kampala (mail address: P.O. Box 7070, Kampala, Uganda). Phone 256-414-312-000.

U.S. Embassy, Ggaba Road, Kansanga, Kampala. Phone 256-414-259-791.

Sowing the Mustard Seed by Ugandan leader Yoweri Museveni may be hard to find outside Uganda, but it should be available in the country. The autobiography tells the story of Museveni's rise from cattle farmer to guerrilla fighter to president.

Journey through Uganda by David Pluth and Philip Briggs (Camerapix). A colorful, coffee-table overview of Uganda.