Set like gems in the sparkling blue Aegean Sea, each of the Cyclades islands has its own character. For Mykonos, the local culture is a mix of the sacred and the profane. This island is the gateway to the neighboring unoccupied island of Delos, the sacred center of the Cyclades.
With almost a million visitors a year, this 30-sq-mi/80-sq-km island gets busy in high season. For those who don't like crowds, spring and fall are the best times to visit.
If your notion of a Greek island is old ladies in black and fishermen mending their nets by the harbor, Mykonos will be an eye-opener. In fact, it will probably surprise even the experienced traveler. Mykonos has more than 400 churches and chapels, as well as plenty of nude beaches and gay striptease and drag shows. Fashion models strut their stuff, and the nightlife can be as wild as anywhere in the world. Prices are high, too, but the food and shopping are better than almost anywhere else in Greece.
Mykonos Town, the capital, is the center of activity on the island. Don't let its reputation for bacchic behavior discourage you from visiting. Go during the daytime if you want to experience a more traditional side of the city. Take time to stroll its warrenlike streets, many of which are no wider than a sidewalk. On each side are smooth, whitewashed cubes whose doors and windows are splashed with bright colors. Bougainvilleas, clematis and geraniums cascade from the wooden balconies.
Be sure to peek inside a few of the red-domed chapels scattered around the island. Most are tiny, peaceful places. There are also several small museums that contain some interesting artifacts.
Outside the capital, the beaches are superb, provided you don't mind sharing them with a few thousand other people. Inland are few trees and lots of rocks, so although it's not the most attractive of islands, it does have character.
Must See or Do
Sights—The island's landmark windmills, especially to watch the sun set; Little Venice at night (it may not be to everyone's tastes but it's what Mykonos is about); Panayia Paraportiani, for a glimpse of the sacred amongst the profane; Mykonos Town's winding back streets.
Museums—The entire island of Delos constitutes the Archaeological Museum of Delos; Delos artifacts at the Archaeological Museum of Mykonos; traditional arts and crafts at the Folklore Museum of Mykonos.
Memorable Meals—Tarte tatin at La Maison de Catherine.
Late Night—The spectacular cliff-top setting and pool overlooking the sea at Cava Paradiso.
Especially for Kids—Miniature lighthouses and model ships at The Aegean Maritime Museum.
History
Not much is known about the early history of Mykonos. When recorded history began, it was being used as a stopping-off point for the holy island of Delos. In fact, Mykonos is named after the son of a king of Delos. According to mythology, the island got its rocky shape when Hercules killed several giants there and threw them down, turning them to stone.
During the first millennium, the island was inhabited by seafaring peoples who found their way there from Egypt, Phoenicia, Crete and the Ionian islands. In 1207, the Venetians conquered the island, and in 1537, it came under Turkish rule. It remained under Turkish occupation until 1822, though it retained a certain amount of autonomy, providing ships and sailors to fight against the Turks in the war of independence.
In the 18th and early 19th centuries, pirates plagued the island. In an effort to confuse them in Mykonos Town, the narrow streets were contorted into labyrinthine designs. Visitors have felt the disorienting effects ever since.
The first half of the 20th century saw the island become a popular spot with archaeologists working on nearby Delos. In the 1950s, the first waves of tourists began to arrive. Since the 1970s, Mykonos has been one of the gay capitals of the Mediterranean, and although the gay scene is less obvious these days, it remains a part of the island's cultural mix.
Potpourri
Despite its reputation for nightlife, churches and chapels still outnumber clubs and discos on Mykonos.
Mykonos has about 10,000 residents, yet it attracts almost 800,000 visitors a year.
Just about every movie and music star you can imagine has visited the island at some point. Even Rolling Stone Keith Richards stopped rolling long enough to spend some time there.
Sightseeing
The narrow streets of Mykonos Town are one of the main attractions, provided you can visit out of season and see them when they're quiet and pretty. Whitewashed walls and blue doors and windows make up the archetypal Cycladic scene, which you'll see on many postcards. You may also get a glimpse of one of the pink pelicans of Mykonos. The original, Petros, was caught in a fisherman's net in 1955 and became an island mascot.
Visitors congregate in the cafes of Little Venice at the end of the day to watch the spectacular sunset, though the sunset views are actually better from the hill where the windmills sit.
There are a few small museums. The Archaeological Museum, with some finds from Delos, is worth a visit. The Folklore Museum displays Myconian art, ceramics and embroidery. The Aegean Maritime Museum contains some interesting models of ancient sailing vessels. A trip to the neighboring island of Delos is the must-see excursion for those not dedicated to beaches. Try to get there early so you'll have plenty of time to look around.
In town, Panayia Paraportiani is the prettiest of the island's numerous churches. It is, in effect, four churches welded into one. You will find it near the remains of the castle, at the southwest end of the harbor.
The remains of many churches, chapels and shrines dot the island's landscape. According to traditional lore, fishermen who ran into trouble at sea would pray for their lives to be spared, and those who made it back to land built shrines in gratitude. Many of these tiny, private chapels are near the homes of fishermen.
Across the island is the only other large town, Ano Mera. It is well worth visiting to get a feel for typical Greek daily life. The Monastery of Panayia Tourliani is near the main square, and it's a charming example of a Greek monastery.
Recreation
Mykonos is great for diving, and there are good dive centers at Psarou Beach, Paradise Beach and the Aphrodite Beach Hotel at Kalafati Bay.
On most of the big beaches you'll find watersports centers offering such activities as waterskiing, sailboarding, parasailing and boat rental. There's a big sailboarding center at Kalafati Bay. At Elia Beach there is a small water park called WaterMania, with water rides and slides that are great for children.
The beaches on the south coast have the best of the golden sand and are sheltered on windy days, since the prevailing wind is from the north. With such easy access, the south coast beaches are usually crowded. The white-sand Psarou Beach and gold-sand Platis Gialos are the closest to Mykonos Town and easily reached by bus or boat. Both are busy but beautiful, and they are popular with families.
Farther east are Paradise and Super Paradise beaches, which are reached by footpath or boat. The latter was once a renowned gay, nudist beach but it's no longer so specific. These two beaches are where the party crowds tend to hang out.
The prettiest beach is undoubtedly at Elia, the longest on the island and last port of call for the excursion boats that ply the south coast. If you have your own transportation, go to Panormos on the north coast for 300 ft/93 m of golden sand backed by dunes.
Horseback riding is also an option, with some stables offering early-morning and sunset rides along the beaches or over the countryside. The Mykonos Riding Centre is less than a mile/kilometer out of town along the airport road.
Nightlife
Nightlife is why many people go to Mykonos, and to them the wee hours are when the action starts. They spend their days on the beach, sleeping off the fun they had the previous night.
Mykonos has the best nightlife in the Greek islands, and Mykonos Town has the best on the island. Behavior can be quite outrageous or simply objectionable, so be warned. Inside the clubs you can find drag acts and gay striptease. If that's not your style, than you may want to get an early night's rest. If that is your style, then hit the harbor area, especially around Platia Mavrogenous, and farther south in Little Venice—a popular spot for watching the sun set, but the joint doesn't get hopping until about 11 pm.
Later on, the action moves to clubs such as Cava Paradiso and the Tropicana Beach Club, where the action continues till beyond dawn. Be aware that drinks are expensive on Mykonos.
The "in place to sin" changes from season to season, but there are some long-established favorites such as the Montparnasse Piano Bar, which has been around since the 1960s, and Pierros on Matoyianni, which was the first gay bar in Greece. Caprice and Katerina's, in Little Venice, are good spots for sunset cocktails.
In the summer, a free magazine, Mykonos Summertime, is available everywhere and gives lots of practical island information on what is open or closed.
Shopping
With its bohemian atmosphere, Mykonos is home to almost as many art galleries as nightclubs. Lots of them are congregated in the Little Venice area. Some of the stuff is quite kitsch, but there's plenty of choice, with many galleries devoted to modern Greek artists. You'll find sculptures, glass and metalwork among the paintings.
Photography is a real art form in Greece, and if you want more than just a stylish picture-postcard, go to the gallery of local photographer Panorea Galata at Metropoleos 13. His images capture Mykonos both old and new.
Jewelry is something else to seek out, though prices are high. You'll pay dearly for designer pieces from Ilias Lalaounis—the name in Greek jewelry. A satellite shop of his flagship store in Athens is in Mykonos Town at Polykandrioti 14.
Local Tours
There are plenty of excursion options available from travel agencies in Mykonos Town, including scuba diving, Jeep safaris, night tours, tours to Delos and tours to other nearby islands.
Dining Overview
Mykonos is far more expensive than the average Greek island, but you can find establishments that offer good value. You'll have the opportunity to try some innovative dishes rather than just moussaka or stuffed tomatoes: Some restaurants show a French or fusion influence.
One island specialty is taramasalata, the codfish roe. In most of Greece, taramasalata is dyed pink, but on Mykonos, it's served white. Try Mykonos sausages, flavored with oregano, pepper, olives and spices, and louses, slices of pork marinated in the same blend of spices and then dried, sliced and served as an appetizer.
The best dining is, naturally, in Mykonos Town, and most of the good places are in the old part of town, known as Hora (the Greek name for the upper town, to distinguish it from the harbor area). Elsewhere on the island, you will find restaurants mainly in hotels and tavernas overlooking the popular beaches. (The tavernas may close in the evening and during the off-season.)
As a rule, eating places will be open from about noon until the last customer leaves, and then again in the evening from 6 or 7 until late. Greeks tend to eat late, at 9 pm or after, but restaurants are prepared for the earlier eating habits of visitors.
Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of a dinner for one, not including drinks, tax or tip: $ = less than 15 euros; $$ = 15-25 euros; $$$ = 26-40 euros; and $$$$ = more than 40 euros.
Etiquette
The Greeks have a flexible attitude to time. If two friends arrange to meet, one of them might get there an hour later than the other one. Although this is generally not the case in business meetings, understand that it might happen.
Greeks are also very sociable people, and it is common to begin a business meeting with some friendly remarks about family, the traffic or whatever. Political discussions are not avoided and are sure to be animated. Whether left-wing or right-wing, Greeks generally distrust any government, and you needn't tread carefully on the subject of politics. Remember, however, that Greece is also a very religious country, and you must take care not to offend on these grounds.
Personal Safety
Although Greece is, by and large, a very safe country, the pressing crowds on Mykonos can put your valuables at risk. Take the usual precautions: Watch your bag and wallet in crowded places, keep your passport with you and lock the doors and windows of your accommodations.
Health
Tap water in Myknonos is generally safe to drink, but many people prefer to drink bottled water for taste and to preserve the precious natural water. Vaccinations are not required to get in the country, and sanitation is generally good, although perhaps not to the U.S. standards.
Take care in summer against the extreme high heat. Wear sunscreen, cover up and drink lots of water. Avoid excessive alcohol intake.
Mykonos Town has an excellent Medical Center (phone 22890-23994) with English-speaking staff, open daily May-October 8:30 am-midnight; November-April 8:30 am-9 pm.
In an emergency or outside these hours, call the Medical Center's emergency number (phone 22890-694433) or ring for an ambulance (phone 166).
The Mykonos Hospital (phone 22890-23994) is also in Mykonos Town and has a 24-hour emergency service.
For minor problems, try one of the pharmacies. Look for the green cross symbol. One of these will always be open, and outside regular hours all pharmacies will inform you where the nearest open pharmacy is. Pharmacy assistants are very well-trained in Greece, and most speak good English.
Disabled Advisory
Visitors with physical limitations will find Mykonos—and most Greek islands—difficult. Narrow streets with steps and cobbles do not lend themselves to wheelchairs and walking sticks. People will be helpful, but visitors with mobility problems will not have the easiest of times. Getting on and off ferries to Delos can be done with difficulty, and access to the site on Delos is problematic.
Dos & Don'ts
Do expect to see any and every kind of dress (and not always on women) if you wander around parts of Mykonos Town at night. It's a place where anything goes, especially late at night and into the early hours.
Don't choose a beach at random. Some are gay, some are nudist, some are both, and some are noisy, so ask around or look around before settling down.
Don't think you'll have a cheap break on Mykonos—it's expensive.
Do take lots of film or memory cards for your digital camera. Parts of Mykonos are unbelievably photogenic.
Hotel Overview
As with restaurants, you'll find better hotels—and pricier ones—on Mykonos than on most Greek islands. If you are planning to travel in July or August, you will almost certainly need to book your room well in advance and be prepared to stay for at least three nights.
Help is available through the Mykonos Accommodation Centre, and the service is free if you book three nights or more. http://www.mykonos-accommodation.com.
Currency Exchange
The Greek unit of currency is the euro. There are several banks with currency exchange facilities and ATM machines in Mykonos Town. Credit cards are widely used on the island, but not all bars, tavernas and local shops will take them, so be sure to have cash on hand.
Taxes
A value added tax (VAT) of anywhere from 4% to 18% is added to most goods and services in Greece, depending on the category and the location. Reduced rates apply to certain essential categories, such as food, medical supplies, fuel and some services.
With a little paperwork, non-EU residents can obtain a VAT refund for some purchases. You need to present three things to the VAT refund officer at the airport before departure to get a refund: the article you purchased, the receipt and a refund form (which must be picked up at the place of purchase). If you don't have these three things, then your refund will be denied. Note that only unused articles are eligible for a refund: If the article looks used, then you won't get your money back. If everything is in order, the VAT refund officer will give you a final form to be mailed in for your refund. (For your own convenience, see the VAT officer before checking your bags and have your purchases in an easy-to-reach place.)
To get the refund, look for stores displaying a "tax-free shopping" sign. Some larger stores have a streamlined process: They handle most of the paperwork and then mail the refund to you, sometimes minus a fee. Private VAT refund services, located at the airport, will give you an immediate refund minus a fee, which is usually a percentage of the refund.
If you are traveling to other countries in the European Union, you'll have to claim your refunds at your final exit point from the EU. In other words, if you're traveling on to Austria and France and are departing the EU from Paris, you have to claim the VAT refunds from all three countries at the airport in Paris.
Tipping
Tipping in Greece is not a regimented affair. If you work on the basis of a 10% tip, and round it up or down to a convenient, round amount, no one will complain. A service charge is automatically included on restaurant and bar bills, so you don't need to add another one. Many people leave the small change, though, as a direct cash tip to the waiter if the service has been good.
Weather
Mykonos is a very pleasant place to visit April-October, with temperatures in the 70s F/21-26 C and 80s F/27-31 C, though in August it can edge up into the 90s F/32-27 C and even higher than 100 F/38 C in a hot summer. Little rain falls June-September, although you can still get the odd day here and there. It rains a few days a month in spring and fall, but most rain falls December-January, when daytime temperatures will drop into the 50s F/10-15 C.
What to Wear
In summer, Mykonos is hot, so dress in cool clothing and use lots of sunscreen. It stays hot into the night, and the only reason to cover up in the evenings is to try to discourage any mosquitoes. Although not a big problem, there still are some here and there. In the daytime in spring and autumn, temperatures are pleasantly warm, but take a sweater or light jacket for the evenings.
Like the rest of Greece, Mykonos is generally casual, although there are some nicer restaurants and hotels where you should dress to impress. Ties on men are not expected except at formal business meetings—and even there it isn't universal. Climate usually wins out over convention, and Greeks are so relaxed that you won't get in trouble or feel embarrassed if you make a wrong call.
Telephone
It's advisable to buy a phone card when you arrive, since all Greek telephones now require them. Some public phones still accept credit cards. You can also use the phones at the little yellow kiosks and pay in cash, although these are getting harder to find. There are public-access telephones at Hellenic Telecommunications Organization or OTE offices (the one in Mykonos Town is just behind the Archaeological Museum). Those phones take cash or credit cards.
Internet Access
There are several Internet cafes in Mykonos Town, and prices are reasonable (about 4-5 euros per hour).
Many of the top-end—and some of the midrange—hotels now provide data ports in guest rooms, and some offer Wi-Fi access. This is far from universal, however, so if Internet access is vital to your trip, check before you book.
Newspapers & Magazines
Most international newspapers are available on Mykonos during the summer months, though they usually arrive a day late. There is also a free magazine,
Mykonos Summertime, which carries information about events, and travel agents also carry flyers and brochures about clubs, restaurants and what's happening.
Transportation
Bear in mind that traffic, particularly in and around Mykonos Town, can be gridlocked, and parking places are very hard to find. Drivers there can be aggressive and even discourteous, so you should drive defensively. Rental scooters, available from rental car agencies, can be a fun option for touring the island. Just be careful: Inexperienced drivers can have accidents.
Bus
Follow the harbor to the north and you'll go to the North Station, which serves Ano Mera and the north coast of the island. The South Station, uphill from the little row of windmills, serves the south coast beaches and resorts.
Ferry
Interisland ferries leave from the north side of the harbor, with connections to numerous other Greek islands and Athens. Boats for Delos leave from the southwest corner of the harbor. Around the harbor you'll also find
caiques (small excursion boats) to take you to some of Mykonos' beaches.
Taxi
Taxis are an easy and cheap option for getting around the island, and fares to the various destinations are posted on a board at the main taxi stand at Platia Mavrogenous (also called Taxi Square) on the south side of the main harbor.
For More Information
The island of Mykonos has its own Tourist Information Office near the Town Hall on Platia Karaoli Dimitriou. Open daily in summer 10 am-5 pm (9 am-9 pm July and August). Phone 22890-25250. http://www.mykonos.gr.
Three other official offices for hotel bookings, room bookings and camping are alongside the tourist police office on the harbor. For other general island information, visit any travel agent.
Calendar
As it is everywhere else in Greece, Easter is the big celebration on Mykonos. The dates vary, and coincide only occasionally with the western Easter dates, so check first. It is a great time to be on Mykonos, before the crowds begin to arrive. Festivities, processions and church services take place from Easter Thursday through Easter Monday.
On 30 June there's a Fishermen's Festival in Mykonos Town. The feast of Profitis Ilias takes place 18-20 July. Pilgrims go to hilltop chapels bearing the name of the prophet Elijah. Throughout the rest of the year, the name-day and saints-day celebrations common to all Greek communities take place there.
