Marseille is an ancient city that never ceases to arouse passions. This colorful Mediterranean port has seen the arrival of Greek settlers, Roman conquerors, swashbuckling sailors, religious crusaders, tourists looking for sunny skies and immigrants looking for a home in France's melting pot. The French either love or detest Marseille, but it certainly leaves no one indifferent. Whereas Parisians once snubbed Marseille, they are now heading south on the high-speed TGV train to experience the charm and sun of this thriving cosmopolitan city.
Marseille has rhythm and spice, and its inhabitants are fiercely proud of their city. Though twice as big in area as Paris, it is still thought of as a series of small "villages," each with its own unique history and traditions. The more popular villages include le Panier, La Belle de Mai, Mazargues, le Roucas Blanc and Saint Giniez. Some are known for their beaches (La Vielle Chapelle), some for the famous artists who were inspired there (Cezanne and Braque in L'Estaque), still others for their charming ports (La Vallon des Auffes, La Pointe Rouge, le Vieux Port). With its rich history, diverse culture, authentic character, immense pride and warm people, Marseille will have you lowering your anchor to stay a while.
Must See or Do
Sights—The Jardin du Pharo, for the best views of the Vieux Port; the morning fish market on the Quai des Belges at the Vieux Port; walk or, easier, take the tourist train up to the magnificent church of Notre Dame de la Garde, for views over the whole city.
Museums—The Musee d'Histoire de Marseille for the huge third-century Roman trading ship; the Musee Cantini for an impressive collection of modern art; the Musee de la Mode for a fun collection of fashion and swimwear.
Memorable Meals—Chez Etienne for the best pizza in town; the Miramar for elegance and great bouillabaise; Chez Madie for delicious dishes such as breast of duck with figs.
Late Night—The historic Bar de la Marine is a great place to hang out by the Vieux Port; the Pelle-Mele for late-night jazz.
Walks—Stroll around the quiet old streets of Le Panier district, where the city first grew up; walk along the Promenade and Corniche to remind yourself that Marseille also has seaside and beaches.
Especially for Kids—The Prado beaches with loads of kids' activities; a boat trip to the island and Chateau d'If; a visit to one of the city's makers of Santons (clay models) in the Panier district.
History
Around 600 BC, the Greeks settled in what they called Massalia, an inlet on the southeast coast of France that was protected from harsh storms and blessed with a direct route to the trade-facilitating Rhone River. Years later, the Greeks invited the Romans to help them fight the Franks, a move that had disastrous results: The power-hungry Romans eventually claimed the town's fleet, treasures and trade. In 1481, the thriving port of Marseille became part of the kingdom of France. In the 19th century, Marseille prospered, with flour mills, sugar refineries and factories that produced olive oil, soap and cigarettes. Wide boulevards were built, and a system of public transportation was developed. The opening of the Suez Canal in 1869 further advanced commerce in the Mediterranean, bolstering Marseille's trade networks.
In the 20th century, however, the city's fortunes declined. It was heavily bombed during World War II and suffered losses under the German occupation in 1943. The eight-year closure of the Suez Canal (1967-75) and the loss of French colonies in northern Africa in the 1960s eroded Marseille's economic prosperity. Things improved in the 1980s, when the city rebuilt itself with a vast, modernized port, a new science and technology business park and the arrival of the high-speed TGV train line from Paris. Marseille has also focused on preserving its historical heritage and on making the most of its sunshine and turquoise waters to promote tourism.
Sightseeing
For a unique look at one of the industries that makes Marseille tick, visit the fish market on the Quai des Belges at the Vieux Port before dawn—you'll hear the singing southern accents of the fishermen and witness local commerce at its animated best. After the market, and with a cafe au lait to embolden your spirits, hike up to Notre Dame de la Garde, one of the highest points in Marseille. Your trek will reward you with the best view of the city.
Recreation
The famous mistral from the north, coupled with the sparkling water of the Mediterranean Sea, make windsurfing and sailing a favorite activity in Marseille. Windsurfing clubs abound along the coast, and you can navigate your sailboat into Port de la Madrague, Port de Plaisance de la Pointe Rouge or even the Vieux Port. The inlets of Sormiou and Morgiou, with their stunning scenery, are beautiful havens for sailors.
Kite flying is a passion for young and not-so-young alike. The Prado beaches, more than 2 mi/3 km long, with immense park and lawn areas, offer kite aficionados enough room to roam unencumbered.
Jogging along the 3-mi-/5-km-long Corniche is a favorite activity for locals. It's also a great way to see the coast and admire some of the beautiful homes overlooking the water. Begin west of Malmousque and finish at the Rond Point David with a refreshing drink at the hip Cafe David. If you're not tired, continue jogging all the way to Escale Borely and stop at one of the watering holes there—or simply jump into the sea to cool off.
It would be a shame to visit Marseille without catching a glimpse of the favorite pastime (it might be pushing it to call it a sport) known as petanque (called boules in other regions of France). Head over to the city's main playing field, the Boulodrome Pierre Peres at 87 Promenade de la Plage, to watch a few lively matches. The annual international petanque championship, Mondial la Marseillaise a Petanque, takes place every July at the Parc Borely.
Nightlife
Most nightclubs don't even open their doors before midnight. One way to while away the hours before heading out for a night on the town is to sample the tea at Les Arcenaulx. If tea isn't your thing, sample what the locals drink—pastis. There are two major brands of the anise-flavored liqueur, 51 and Ricard. Order the Ricard and you'll get a tall glass with about 2 in/5 cm of a cloudy white liquid. Fill the glass with water to the brim—or to taste. At the popular Bar de la Marine, an authentic 1930s bar on the Quai de Rive Neuve, overlooking the Vieux Port, you can enjoy a complimentary plate of tapas with your drink.
Spectator Sports
In Marseille, soccer (or
le football) is more than a sport—it's a religion. The famous Olympique de Marseille soccer team holds its matches in the Stade Velodrome, located at 3 Blvd. Michelet. Both friendly preseason games and hotly contested French Championship finals (especially when they play their archrival, Nice) are extremely popular.
Most matches take place on Saturday night, and ticket availability depends on who they're playing. Phone 04-9176-9155 to purchase tickets with a credit card. The tourist office also organizes tours of the stadium, which is hosting several matches in the Rugby World Cup in fall 2007. Phone 04-9113-8900. http://www.marseille-tourisme.com.
Shopping
You won't have to search to purchase original souvenirs in Marseille. Stroll the pricey boutiques along the pedestrian-only Rue Paradis or the more reasonably priced shops of the Rue Saint Ferreol for chic French clothing, fine Provencal fabrics or the traditional
collier marseillais necklace, a fine gold chain with small gold balls. Other typical Provencal souvenirs are
santons, small terra-cotta figures representing the people of Provence, that have been handcrafted in this region since the 18th century. They're a favorite nativity decoration at Christmas. Visit a master craftsman in his workshop at Le Cabenon des Accoules, 24 Montee des Accoules, in the Panier district to see
santons being made.
Other local specialties you'll want to take home include the famous olive-oil soap, Savon de Marseille, and the anisette liqueur, pastis. Also look for tasty spreads and dips such as the garlic-flavored aioli, anchoiade (anchovy spread) and black-olive tapenade. You'll find all of these products in tourist shops, with pretty packaging and prices to match, but you can save by shopping for them where the locals do, at supermarkets such as Casino or Intermarche. When you're there (depending on the size of your suitcase), pick up some extra-virgin olive oil, herbes de provence, handmade bars of sweet nougat, and a few bottles of the excellent wines produced in the nearby vineyards of Bandol, Cassis and Chateauneuf-du-Pape.
There are open-air food and clothing markets throughout the city. Try the one at Avenue du Prado (Monday-Saturday mornings) or Place Joliette (Monday-Friday mornings). Specialty markets include the daily morning Marche aux Poissons (fish market) on the Quai des Belges in the Vieux Port, and the Marche aux Puces (flea market) Saturday and Sunday mornings at 130 Chemin de la Madrague Ville. There's also an excellent craft market on the Quai des Belges every Sunday morning. The only major shopping mall in town is Le Centre Bourse, just a few minutes by foot from the Vieux Port. It has 60 indoor shops, including the Galeries Lafayette department store, as well as the Musee de l'Histoire de Marseille on the lower level.
Finally, you can't visit Marseille without a stop at the oldest bakery in town, the Four des Navettes (136 Rue Sainte, just up the road from the Abbey St. Victor), which opened in 1781. Have them pack their famous orange-blossom-flavored navette biscuits for you to take home and sample with friends.
Day Trips
To
Cassis, a charming fishing port, along the winding Route de la Ginest. Relax on one of three beaches (one shingle, two sandy), at the base of the famous cliff, Cap Canaille. Stroll the boardwalk and watch the
petanque players or dine on the local catch at the port. On the way back to Marseille, stop at La Maison de Vin to sample the famous Cassidian wine.
13 mi/20 km east of Marseille.To Aix-en-Provence. If Marseille has character, Aix has class. Its streets are lined with stately 17th-century houses, public buildings and beautiful fountains, in front of which the Aixois sit, sipping tea and sampling calissons, the diamond-shaped almond cookies for which the city is noted. Visit Cezanne's atelier and the mansion where he was born, see the Beauvais tapestries in the Tapestry Museum and admire the contemporary art in the Vasarely Foundation. The Cours Mirabeau is lined with cafes where you can enjoy a drink and people-watch to your heart's content, or browse in the fashionable boutiques in the winding side streets. Just outside of Aix is the awe-inspiring Mont Ste. Victoire, a mountain seen in many of Cezanne's paintings that is now a popular hiking destination. 20 mi/32 km north of Marseille.
To L'Estaque. From the Vieux Port, follow the Autoroute du Littoral north until you reach this village, whose rugged charm inspired painters—Cezanne, Renoir, Derain, Braque and Dufy, among others—of three important art movements: impressionism, fauvism and cubism. It has retained its original character, with tile-roofed houses nestled under the hills, overlooking the bay. Sample local specialties such as chichi freggi (a type of doughnut sprinkled with sugar) or panisse (a deep-fried pancake made from chickpea-flour).
Local Tours
The Marseille tourist office offers a large variety of tours, including two-hour walking tours with an English-speaking guide; kayaking, hiking and sailing adventures with licensed guides (in French); and "discovery tours" by taxi, with prerecorded commentary. For information about tours, phone the tourist office at 04-9113-8900.
Dining Overview
Marseille's melting pot of cultures guarantees a mix of restaurants as diverse as the ingredients found in the famous local soup, bouillabaisse. This dish is made with a combination of fish and shellfish, tomatoes, onion, garlic, olive oil, fennel and saffron. It is served with shredded cheese melted on top and toast spread with aioli, garlic-flavored mayonnaise. Wash it down with a bottle of rose wine from Provence or the heartier reds from the nearby Bandol region. For an aperitif, order an anisette-flavored pastis or a
kir, white wine with creme de cassis, a black-currant liqueur.
Restaurants are clustered in several districts. There is a wealth of dining possibilities in the Vieux Port area and along and behind the Quai de Rive Neuve. The dozen restaurants near the Espace Borely offer spectacular sunsets overlooking the water.
In the summer, call to confirm that the restaurant you want to go to is open, especially in August, when many establishments close for vacation.
Here is a sampling of restaurants in town. Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of a dinner for one, not including drinks, tax and tip: $ = less than 15 euros; $$ = 15 euros-30 euros; $$$ = 31 euros-50 euros; $$$$ = more than 50 euros.
Personal Safety
Marseille has had a bad rap regarding crime for many years. Crime does exist, as it does in all major cities, but by following a few guidelines, you can reduce the chances of it happening to you. Don't leave valuables or items that could attract a break-in (bags from exclusive shops, keys, luggage) in plain view in your car. Always keep the car doors locked when driving: Thieves on scooters grab bags right out of cars when they're stopped in traffic.
Watch your belongings at the beach and hold onto your purse or bag when sitting at an outdoor cafe. Don't flaunt currency in stores or on the street and keep most of your cash and credit cards in a money belt. Keep your voice down on the metro to avoid drawing attention to the fact that you're a tourist and avoid the metro at night. Also avoid the north side of town, the Quartier Nord.
Health
Marseille gets very hot in the summer, and this is sometimes masked by sea breezes, so don't take any chances and do cover yourself in sunscreen. When swimming, watch out for sea urchins and jellyfish. They're not a major hazard but are very unpleasant when encountered.
The most central hospital is the Hopital de la Conception, about a mile/kilometer southeast of the Vieux Port at 147 Boulevard Baille. Phone 04-9138-3000.
In an emergency, call 15 for an ambulance.
Disabled Advisory
The Marseille City Council has a special office set up to deal with disabled access for locals and visitors alike. The Office Municipal Pour Handicapes is at 128 Ave. du Prado (eighth arondissement), Marseille. Phone 04-9181-5880.
The city is not ideal for visitors with mobility problems. There are lots of steep streets leading away from the Vieux Port, frequent roadwork and lots of aggressive drivers, which can make crossing the street hazardous. In contrast, much of the public transport system is accommodating to those with disabilities.
For more information, call 04-9111-4100.
Hotel Overview
There is no shortage of hotel accommodations in Marseille, and all price ranges are available. The best place to start is around the Vieux Port, with several hotels overlooking the harbor. This is also where you'll find the main tourist office, which offers an accommodation service for visitors. Weekdays are more available than weekends, when many travelers from as far away as Paris take advantage of the fast TGV service to enjoy a weekend in the south. Unlike many places, Marseille is not especially busy in August, as many people find it too hot then.
Geostats
Passport/Visa Requirements: Canadian and U.S. citizens need passports and proof of onward passage for stays of up to three months. Reconfirm travel document information with your carrier before departure.
Languages: French.
Time Zone: Daylight Saving Time is not observed.
Currency Exchange
ATMs are located throughout the city center and at banks. Most accept major credit cards and are connected to at least one international banking network (for bank cards). Each machine clearly displays symbols to let you know which cards will work, and various language options are usually available.
If you need to exchange hard currency, you can do so at one of the main city-center currency exchange bureaus (smaller ones don't always offer competitive rates). You can also exchange at most banks, which should display their rates.
When paying for goods or services by credit card, don't be surprised if the sales clerk seems confused about the magnetic strip on your card. In France, credit cards have a chip—rather than a strip—which stores a PIN to be entered by the customer on making payment, rather than signing a payment slip. As a result, businesses need a special machine that will accept both French PIN cards and international credit cards. Most now have them, but be prepared for an occasional hitch.
Taxes
Goods and services in France are subject to a value-added tax, called TVA (
taxe sur la valeur ajoutee). The price displayed almost always includes tax—the letters TTC (
tous taxes compris) next to a price mean that it's included.
Department stores and many of the larger shops in central Marseille participate in France's Global Refund Cheque plan, which allows non-European Union citizens to reclaim the tax. The city is also a popular port of call for cruise ships, so the bigger stores are familiar with the formalities of tax-free shopping. Nonresidents of the EU can file for a tax refund (around 12%) for purchases of more than 175 euros in one store on a given day. If a store participates (and not all are required to do so), it will display a blue-and-white Tax Free Shopping logo. When you make your purchase—you may have to use a specially designated desk—request a global refund check. When you get to the airport, present the form at the claims counter at customs for an immediate refund, or ask the customs officials to stamp your form and then send it to Global Refund France S.A., which will refund you through your credit card. Some stores manage their own TVA refunds and have specific forms and procedures, so always check with customer service.
Tipping
Service charges at restaurants will nearly always be included in the total bill (check at the bottom of the bill for the words
service compris). If it's not included, tip 10%-15%. If it is included, you may leave a few extra euros if the service was especially good. At bars and cafes, it's a nice gesture to leave a small tip. This same practice should also be applied to taxi drivers.
Weather
Marseille can be very pleasant in spring and fall, and even in winter you will still get some mild days. The average temperature December-February is 46 F/8 C, though, so pack for warmth. The highest rainfall occurs in October and November, though it does rain all year-round, and you may even get some rainy days at the height of the summer.
What to Wear
Located in the far south of France, Marseille is generally hot from July through early September, and you will probably need only very light clothing then. A light jacket or sweater is a good idea in case of an unexpectedly cool evening or a cooling sea breeze. Sturdy shoes are useful as you'll inevitably encounter plenty of cobbled streets, steep staircases and dog droppings.
Business occasions call for a relatively conservative style of dress. Smart, clean-cut but understated suits and dresses are the most appropriate choices. French businessmen are often seen wearing suits with waistcoats and even watch chains on ordinary workdays, although short-sleeved shirts with no ties are perfectly acceptable in many businesses during summer.
Internet Access
There are several Internet cafes in the city. Wi-Fi is increasingly available in the city's hotels, but at a price, and there are few if any free public Wi-Fi hotspots.
Newspapers & Magazines
The leading international newspapers are available at newsstands at the railway station and around the Vieux Port. Many British newspapers have special editions printed in southern France and available on the morning of publication.
There are several local magazines that tell you what's going on in the city, such as Metro, Marseille Plus and l'Hebdo. These are in French, but the listings are easy enough to understand. Alternatively, the tourist office produces a bilingual monthly "what's on" guide called paf. It is less current because of its frequency, and it's better for culture than clubs.
Transportation
The two metro lines in Marseille are efficient and simple to use. Line 1 begins at La Timone; its stops include Castellane (transfer to line 2), Estrangin (Prefecture), Vieux Port and the Gare St. Charles (the main train station) before arriving at its terminus, La Rose. Line 2 includes stops at the Rond Pointe du Prado (Stade Velodrome), Perier (flower market), Notre Dame du Mont (for the lively Cours Julien) and the Joliette (docks) before ending at Bougainville. The metro runs daily 5 am-9 pm and till 12:30 am Friday-Sunday.
Buses cover much of the city that the metro doesn't. Tickets for the metro or bus cost 1.60 euros. You can travel as far as you want on both metro and bus if necessary, for a period of 60 minutes. A day pass for unlimited bus and metro travel (carte journee) costs 4.50 euros, and a three-day pass costs 10 euros. For more information about public transportation, phone 04-9191-9210.
Taxis line up at specific points in Marseille, notably the Gare St. Charles train station, the Vieux Port (next to the newspaper store) and Castellane. To reserve a taxi at any time of day, phone 04-9102-2020 or 04-9103-6003. To avoid problems, confirm that you are getting into a licensed taxi: Legitimate taxis always have a "Taxi Marseille" sign on the roof and a meter inside displaying the fare.
Calendar
Whether anticipating Bastille Day festivities in July or bundling up to witness Christmas in Provence, the Marseillais always find a reason to celebrate. The following list includes some of the more popular events held each year in Marseilles.
In March, the city celebrates Carnival with a colorful parade of 30,000 people along the Boulevard Canebiere, in the city center. Boating comes to the fore in April, with International Mediterranean Nautical Week, and in May, with the Massalia Cup Regatta. In June, the old neighborhood of Le Panier celebrates in the streets with Fete du Panier, and the entire city participates in the Sea and Fisherman's Festival. In July, petanque and boule players from around the world congregate for the Mondial la Marseillaise World Cup. The Bastille Day National Festival and the Marseille Festival, which features dance, music, cinema and theater, also take place in July. In September, Fete du Vent, an international kite-flying festival and competition, fills the skies with colorful acrobatics. In October, the Fiesta des Suds, a culture and entertainment festival, fills the southern docks of the city, and in November, the city bustles with the French Winegrowers and Farmers Fair. Late in November and through the end of December, the Santons Fair, where the beloved terra-cotta figures used in nativity scenes are sold, is held along the Boulevard Canebiere. To wrap up the year, in December, Marseille celebrates Christmas in Provence.
Don't miss the traditional grape-juice cure held each year throughout the month of September. All over the city, minivans turn into open juice bars, lined up along the sidewalks. Just walk up to the counter on the side of a van and ask for un verre, or a glass of fresh-squeezed grape juice. Most locals swear by it to keep them in good health.
